Japan

What to see in Tokyo

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Tokyo, with a population of over 13 million and more than 37 million in its metropolitan area, is the most populous city in the world. It is made up of 23 wards, 26 cities, one district subdivided into three towns and one village, and four sub-prefectures.

In this post we will look at the most recommended places to see in Tokyo. We’ll break them down by neighbourhood to make it easier to understand.

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Content:

Bunkyō (文京区)

Located in the middle of the special neighbourhood area, Bunkyō is a residential and educational centre. Since the Meiji period, scholars such as Natsume Sōseki, as well as scholars and politicians have lived in this special neighbourhood.

01. Koishikawa Kōrakuen Gardens

They were built in the early Edo period, in 1629 by the founder of the Tokugawa Mito family, Yoritou.

The gardens are truly spectacular. It is said in the forums that the best time to visit is in autumn, so it must be a great time.

What to do in Japan / Koishikawa Kōrakuen Gardens

The Engetsu Bridge (円月橋) or Moon Bridge, which Ishibashi is said to have been designed by the Confucian scholar of Mitsukuni, Zhu Sunsui. This name is given because it looks like a full moon when combined with the reflection on the surface of the water.

The bridge was originally designed to allow pedestrians to pass over it while the barge is operating in the canal.

What to do in Japan

Opening hours: daily from 9.00 am to 5.00 pm (last admission at 4.30 pm).
On Saturdays and Sundays there are free guided tours at 11am and 2pm.

Price: 300¥. Free admission on May 4, nature day.

How to get there:
5-minute walk from the Suidobashi west exit (JB17) of the JR Sobu Line.
8 minutes walk from the east exit of Iidabashi Station (JB16) on the JR Sobu Line.
Tokyo Metro Marunouchi Line and Namboku Line ‘Korakuen’ (M22 / N11) 6 minutes walk from exit 2.
8 minutes walk from exit A2 Suidobashi (I11) on the Toei Mita Line.

A MUST-SEE!

02. Nezu Shrine

It is one of the oldest shrines in Japan. According to legend, Nezu Shrine was founded at Sendagi, north of the present location, in the 1st century by Yamato Takeru (also known as Prince Ōsu), the son of Emperor Keikō.

The main deity of the shrine was Susanoo-no-Mikoto, the kami of the sea and storms. In 1705 the shrine was relocated to Nezu by the Tokugawa Tsunayoshi shōgun.

Nezu Shrine Tokyo

Strolling through the gardens is a real marvel. You will find ponds with carp, tunnels of toriis and, above all, a great deal of tranquillity. It’s hard to believe that we are in the heart of Tokyo.

What you will also find, at least in summer, are lots of killer mosquitoes. Bring a good repellent because we were riddled with them.

What to do in Tokyo

Opening hours: daily from 5:00 to 18:00.

Price: free of charge.

How to get there: 6 minutes walk from Tokyo Metro Nezu Station (Chiyoda Line).
8 minutes from Tokyo Metro Todaimae Station (Namboku Line).

RECOMMENDED VISIT!

03. Attending an ‘exciting’ baseball game at Tokyo Dome

Tokyo Dome is an indoor stadium built on the grounds of the Kōrakuen sports ground. It was opened on 17 March 1988.

It hosts sporting events and concerts. It is home to the Yomiuri Giants baseball team.

Come and have a look around. I have never seen people enter a stadium in such an orderly and calm manner.

What to do in Tokyo

How to get there: 5 minutes walk from the west exit of Suidobashi (JB17) on the JR Sobu Line. 8 minutes walk from the east exit of Iidabashi Station (JB16) on the JR Sobu Line.
Tokyo Metro Marunouchi Line and Namboku Line ‘Korakuen’ (M22 / N11) 6 minutes walk from exit 2.
8 minutes walk from exit A2 Suidobashi (I11) on the Toei Mita Line.

04. Tokyo Dome City

Tokyo Dome City is a kind of amusement park with everything from baseball games and roller coasters to restaurants and hot springs.

Price: Entrance to the park is free. If you want to use the rides you will have to pay. General day admission on weekends is 4,500¥ for adults and 3,900¥ for children. Weekday day admission is 4,200¥ for adults and 3,700¥ for children.

How to get there: 5 minutes walk from the Suidobashi west exit (JB17) of the JR Sobu line.
8-minute walk from the east exit of Iidabashi Station (JB16) on the JR Sobu Line.
Tokyo Metro Marunouchi Line and Namboku Line ‘Korakuen’ (M22 / N11) 6 minutes walk from exit 2.
8 minutes walk from exit A2 Suidobashi (I11) on the Toei Mita Line.

Boy yor Japan Rail Pass

Chiyoda (千代田区)

Chiyoda is another of Tokyo’s special neighbourhoods, 12% of whose area is occupied by the Imperial Palace.

Its name means ‘field of a thousand generations’ and it was created in 1947 after the unification of the Kanda and Kojimachi wards.

05. Imperial Palace or Kōkyo

The Imperial Palace in Tokyo is the permanent residence of the Emperor of Japan and is a large garden complex. It includes buildings such as the main palace, the private residences of the imperial family, an archive, museums and administrative offices. It was built on the same site as the former Edo Castle.

What to see in Tokyo

You can make an appointment on their website: https://sankan.kunaicho.go.jp/english/about/koukyo.html

You can also make a walk-in appointment by bringing your passport to the Kikyo-mon gate. Numbered tickets will be distributed one hour before the tour starts.

Tokyo Imperial palace

How to get there: 7 minutes walk from Tokyo Station.
6 minutes from Tokyo Metro Nijubashimae Station (Chiyoda Line).
6 minutes walk from Tokyo Metro Otemachi Station and Toei Subway.

A MUST-SEE!

06. Tokyo Station, discovering the underworld beneath it

The station was designed by architect Tatsuno Kingo after Amsterdam Station and was built between 1908 and 1914. During the Allied bombings of 1945 much of the station was damaged but it was rebuilt in 1949.

Tokyo Station

At rush hour the station is a hive of activity. However, no matter how much you go against the flow, you’ll never bump into anyone.

Underneath the station is a veritable underworld in the form of a shopping mall. Here you will find all kinds of shops and places to eat, such as the famous Tokyo Ramen Street, with several ramen shops.

Be patient as it is a real underground labyrinth.

Where to eat in Tokyo

Find out here all the places we ate during our trips to Japan.

A MUST-SEE!

07. Akihabara

Known as Akihabara Electric Town, it is one of the most popular shopping districts in Tokyo and throughout Japan.

A bit of history: In the Edo period, the area where Akihabara is located today was home to a number of low-quality weapons shops. As a result, fights and fires were frequent.

In 1870, the Chinka-jinja temple was built as a protection against fire. The citizens believed that it was consecrated to Akiba (a deity famous for helping to put out fires). They dubbed the area Akiba no Hara (Akiba’s Land).

Somewhere along the way, someone made a spelling mistake and changed the name from あきば は ら (Akiba Hara) to あき は ば ら (Akiha Bara).

This was the origin of the current name. Although it is still abbreviated to Akiba among the current population.

Akihabara

In Akihabara you’ll find restaurants, electronics shops large and small, maid cafes and above all, arcade buildings.

In these you can have a blast. You’ll see them hooked and having a blast on the hook machines trying to get freebies. They leave a real pile of money. At the skill machines you will be amazed because they are real PROs. It is said that they practice at home and go to the arcade to set records.

Akihabara Tokyo
The defunct SEGA building

And let’s not forget one of the largest sex shops in the world. It has no less than 7 floors.

If you need any electronic gadgets don’t hesitate to buy them here. I bought a battery for the camera that cost me 40€ when in Spain it cost me 100€.

AN ESSENTIAL VISIT!

08. Strolling along the narrow torii path of the Hie Shrine

Hie Jinja Shrine is a Shinto shrine dedicated to the deity Oyamakui no Kami.

The origin of the shrine is uncertain. One theory is that it was built in 1478 by Ōta Dōkan. Another theory identifies the Hie with the Sannō Shrine mentioned in a 1362 record of the Kumano Nachi Taisha. What is known is that the shōgun Ieyasu relocated it to the grounds of the former Edo Castle.

In 1604 his son Tokugawa Hidetada moved it to the outskirts of the castle so that the people could have access to it.

What to do in Tokyo

The temple is pretty cool, but the real eye-catcher is the stairs leading up through a tunnel of red toriis. It’s like walking through the ultra-mini version of Fushimi Inari Shrine in Kyoto.

Hie Shrine

Opening hours: from April to September from 05:00 to 18:00. / From October to March from 6:00 to 17:00.

Price: Free of charge.

How to get there: 5 minutes walk from Tokyo Metro Tameike-sannō station (Ginza line / Namboku line).
4-minute walk from Metro Tokyo Akasaka-Mitsuke station (Ginza line / Marunouchi line).

RECOMMENDED VISIT!

09. Tokyo Daijingu Shrine, Japan’s most romantic shrine

This temple is where people go to pray to find love. And, if you’re lucky like us, you’ll coincide with a traditional wedding.

It is a rather discreet and small shrine, but if you have time to spare, it is worth the visit and ask for a little love (if you are single…).

It was built in 1888 as a dependent shrine of the Ise Grand Shrine (which we visited in 2018 / discover it here).

Japanese Wedding

Opening hours: every day from 6:00 to 21:00.

Price: free of charge.

How to get there: 5 minutes walk from JR Iidabashi Station and Tokyo Metro.

Chūō (中央区)

Called Chūō City, it is Tokyo’s historic commercial centre. Although Shinjuku has taken over since the end of World War II.

10. Jardines Hama-Rikyu

Hama Rikyu is a traditional garden that was built as a residence for the Tokugawa family. They were later converted into a duck hunting ground.

what to do in Tokyo

It is known for its saltwater pond that enters directly from Tokyo Bay.

It is an impressive haven of tranquillity surrounded by the modern skyscrapers of the area.

Free umbrellas are provided at the entrance to mitigate the terrible Tokyo summer heat.

what to see in Tokyo

Opening hours: daily from 9:00 to 17:00 (last admission at 16:30).

Price: 300¥ / Over 65s 150¥ / Children free.

How to get there: the gardens have several gates:

Otemon Gate: Toei Oedo Line ‘Tsukiji Market’ (E18) ‘Shiodome’ (E19)/Yurikamome ‘Shiodome’ 7 minutes walk.
JR/Tokyo Subway Ginza Line/Toei Subway Asakusa Line ‘Shinbashi’ (G08/A10) 12 minutes walk.

Naka no Gomonguchi: Toei Oedo Line ‘Shiodome’ exit 10 exit 5 minutes walk.
Get off at JR ‘Hamamatsucho’ 15 minutes walk.

A MUST-SEE!

11. Ginza

It is a high-end shopping district. There are many flagship shops of high-end foreign brands, luxury clubs, upscale bars, luxury watch shops, department stores, etc…

The origin of the name Ginza comes from the silver mint (Ginza) which was established during the Edo period.

The Ginza Wako clock tower located at the same intersection has become a Ginza landmark.

12. Attending a traditional play at the Kabuki-za theatre

The Kabuki-za theatre (歌舞伎座) was built in 1889 by Genichiro Fukuchi and is the main kabuki theatre in Japan. Kabuki theatre is the traditional Japanese theatre dating back to the Edo Era.

In 1921 it was destroyed by fire. Reconstruction began in 1922 but could not be completed because the great earthquake of 1923 again destroyed what had already been done.

Kabuki-za

It was rebuilt in 1924, but was again destroyed during the bombings of the Second World War.

In 1950 it was rebuilt with the same design as in 1924, only to be demolished once again in 2010 and rebuilt as it is today in 2013 with the new anti-seismic measures. A beautiful story.

How to get there: Tokyo Metro Higashi-ginza station (Hibiya line / Asakusa line).

RECOMMENDED VISIT!

13. Tsukiji Hongwanji

Tsukiji Hongwan-ji Buddhist Temple (築地本願寺) is a branch temple of the Jodo Shinshu Hongwanji-ha denomination. Commonly known as Nishi Hongwanji, of which the Mother Temple, or Honzan, is located in Kyoto.

Its construction dates back to 1617 when Junnyo Shonin established a temple in Yokoyama-cho near Asakusa in Edo. In 1657 a fire destroyed the temple but the feudal lord Edo Bakufu refused permission to rebuild it on the same site. He did, however, cede the land on which it stands today.

Tsukiji Hongwan-ji Buddhist Temple (築地本願寺)

During the great Kanto earthquake of 1923 the temple was again destroyed. It was rebuilt in stone between 1931 and 1934, this time in Indian style.

In the main hall there is an image of Amida Buddha standing which signifies that the Buddha is actively working in all of us.

Until the Tsukiji market closed, it was the perfect combination, with a good sushi meal to crown a visit to the area.

Opening hours: from 6:00 to 16:00.

Price: free.

How to get there: next to Tokyo Metro Tsukiji station (Hibiya line).

RECOMMENDED VISIT!

14. Crossing Nihonbashi Bridge

Its name literally means ‘Japanese Bridge’.

The first bridge was built in 1603 and was made of wood. It has been destroyed by earthquakes and wars on several occasions. The current one dates from 1911.

The bridge is beautiful, but the downside is that today it is under an elevated highway. This makes it difficult to see it properly.

Nihonbashi Bridge
Nihonbashi Bridge

How to get there: 5 minutes walk from Tokyo Metro Nihonbashi station and Toei Subway (Asakusa line, Ginza line, Tozai line).
10 minutes walk from Tokyo Station.

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!

Katsushika (飾区)

The town of Katsushika was once a thriving industrial area. Small factories dotted the area. As you walked up the Arakawa River, you could see countless chimneys belching black smoke, a typical scene.

Today, the former factory sites have been converted into apartment complexes and shopping facilities, making it a small commercial district.

15. Tour the statues of Captain Tsubasa

In this neighbourhood, between Yotsugi and Tateishi stations, there are 7 statues related to the anime series Captain Tsubasa, very popular among the kids of my generation.

The creator Yōichi Takahashi was from this neighbourhood and they were put up as a tribute and, by the way, to attract a bit of tourism to the neighbourhood.

The entire neighbourhood is dedicated to football at every turn.

How to get there: Yotsugi Station or Tateishi Station on the private Keisei Line (JR Pass not valid).

A MUST-SEE FOR ANIME FANS!

Minato (港区)

Together with the districts of Chiyoda and Chuo, it is considered ‘central Tokyo’ or ‘three central districts of Tokyo’.

It is home to a large number of media and advertising agencies, such as broadcasting stations, IT company headquarters and Japanese branches of foreign companies, and plays a central role in the Japanese economy.

It was created in 1947 by merging the former Shiba district, the former Azabu district and the former Akasaka district.

16. Climbing Tokyo Tower

Built between 1957 and 1958, it was originally intended for television transmission, but in 1961 radio antennas were installed, so the tower is now used for both types of signals.

It is one of Tokyo’s main tourist attractions.

Tokyo Tower

The tower has two observation decks. The Main Deck at 150 metres high and the top platform at 250 metres high offer an overview of Tokyo.

At the base there are shops and also the Tokyo One Piece tower. It is a permanent theme park dedicated to the One Piece manga.

Opening hours: Main deck from 9:00 to 22:30 (last entry at 22:00) / Top Deck from 9:00 to 22:45 (last entry at 22:00).

Price:

AdultChildrenPreschool
Main Deck1.200¥700¥500¥
Top Deck (online)*2.800¥1.800¥1.200¥
Top Deck (box office)*3.000¥2.000¥1.400.¥
*Includes Main Deck

How to get there: 5 min walk from Toei Subway Akabanebashi Station (Oedo line).
6 min walk from Toei Subway Onarimon Station (Toei Mita line). Exit A1.
7 min walk from Tokyo Metro Daimon Station (Hibiya line). Exit 1.
15 min walk from JR Hamamatsuchō station.

A MUST-SEE!

Find the best activities and tours in Tokyo with Civitatis:

what to do in Tokyo

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17. Zojoji Temple

It was founded in 1393 as an orthodox and fundamental nembutsu seminary for Jodo shu in the Kanto region.

Zojoji was moved to the present site in 1598. It was after Ieyasu Tokugawa, founder of the Tokugawa shogunate, chose Edo (present-day Tokyo) in 1590 to establish his provincial government.

After the beginning of the Edo Period when the Tokugawa shogunate ruled Japan, Zojoji became the family temple of the Tokugawa family.

Zojoji temple Tokyo

The sight of the temple, together with the Tokyo Tower, offers a beautiful blend of tradition and modernity.

jizo statues at Zojoji Temple

A MUST-SEE!

18. Ghibli Clock

Installed at the headquarters of the NTV television station, the Ghibli clock is a must-see for all fans of the anime world of the Ghibli studios.

Its author is Hayao Miyazaki and it was installed in 2006. The clock is beautiful and if you can go to the show it puts on several times a day you will be amazed, especially at night.

Ghibli Clock
Monday to FridaySaturdays and Sundays
10:00
12:0012:00
13:0013:00
15:0015:00
18:0018:00
20:0020:00

Price: free

How to get there: 2 min walk from Toei Subway Shiodome station (Oedo line).
5 min walk from Shimbashi station with JR, Tokyo Metro and Toei Subway lines.

A MUST-SEE!

Nakano (中野区)

Nakano was created on October 1, 1932, with the merger of the towns of Nogata and Nakano, as part of the old city of Tokyo.

On 15 March 1947, Nakano became a special ward of the new Tokyo Metropolis.

Nakano is the birthplace of composer Ryuichi Sakamoto.

19. Nakano Broadway

Nakano Broadway is a shopping mall that is the mecca of manga and anime… frikiland for us. It’s full of comic shops and geeky stuff.

How to get there: 4 min walk from JR Nakano station and Toei subway (JR Chūō line, JR Chūō-Sōbu line, Tozai line).

Odaiba (お台場)

Odaiba (お台場) is an artificial island in Tokyo Bay connected to the city centre via the Rainbow Bridge. It was built in 1853 to defend the city and in the late 20th century it expanded due to commercial development.

It is now largely a place of leisure. There are two beaches where bathing is not allowed but where Japanese people go to spend the day.

To get to Odaiba, take the private Yurikamome line from Shiodome Station.

20. Visiting the Statue of Liberty… you read that right…

It was installed in 1998 to commemorate the friendship between Japan and France. It was intended to be temporary, but due to its popularity, it was decided to make it permanent.

Odaiba Tokyo

How to get there: 5 min walk from Daiba Station (Yurikamome line).

A MUST-SEE!

21. Watching the illumination of the Rainbow Bridge at nightfall

The Rainbow Bridge is a suspension bridge over the northern part of Tokyo Bay and belongs to the special Minato district.

It was opened in 1993 and has a length of 570 metres.

Rainbow bridge Tokyo

There are lamps on the cables that support the bridge, which light up in different colours, red, white and green every night, powered by solar energy obtained during the day.

How to get there: you can see it in all its splendour next to the Statue of Liberty.

A MUST-SEE!

22. Enjoy the Gundam Unicorn show next to DiverCity Tokyo Plaza

It is one of the main attractions in Odaiba. Every self-respecting geek should stop by.

From 2012 to 2017, an RX-78-2 Mobile Suit Gundam was located in the square. This was replaced by an RX-0 Unicorn Gundam which is still here.

It is a spectacular sculpture almost 20 metres high on which a small show is performed every day.

Odaiba Tokyo
RX-0 Unicorn Gundam

During the day we can see the show at 11:00／13:00／15:00／17:00. It changes from Destroy Mode to Unicorn Mode.

In the evening the timetable is 19:00 / 19:30 / 20:00 / 20:30 / 21:00 / 21:30. A sound and light show is performed here and images are projected.

Price: free of charge.

23. Seeing the futuristic Fuji TV building

The impressive building was built between 1993 and 1996 by architect Kenzo Tange.

The structure consists of an office tower and a media tower connected by three enclosed walkways. The exterior is clad with salt-resistant titanium.

On the first floor is a shopping centre and a roof garden on the 7th floor. But the star of the show is the Hachitama Spherical Observation Hall, located on the 25th floor. From here we can enjoy beautiful views of Tokyo Bay.

Odaiba

Opening hours: Tuesday to Sunday from 10:00 to 18:00.

Price: Entrance to the building is free. The Hachitama observation deck costs 500¥.

Setagaya (世田谷区)

The special ward of Setagaya was established in 1947. With almost 900,000 inhabitants, it is the most populous special ward in Tokyo.

24. Learn about the history of Maneki Neko at Gōtokuji Temple

Goutoku-ji is a Buddhist temple of the Sōtō School. It was founded in 1480 by the Li family of the Hikone clan.

In addition to the Gotokuji Li Family Cemetery there are many cultural heritage sites related to the Li Family, including the Buddhist temple and the Bell. The cemetery is a nationally designated historical site.

Setagaya Tokyo

Legend has it that Maneki-neko (招き猫) originated here.

In the 17th century. One day the feudal lord Naotaka Li, who was hunting, was caught in a terrible storm.

He took shelter under a tree. A while later, he saw a cat beckoning him with its right paw to approach the temple.

Moved by curiosity, Naotaka Li approached the cat and, just at that moment, lightning struck the tree, destroying it.

In gratitude for saving his life, Naotaka Li helped with the financing of the temple, which was then in ruins.

Since then Maneki-neko (招き猫) has been a symbol of good luck in Japan (and almost all over the world).

Gotokuji temple tokyo

There, apart from visiting the pavilions, you can buy a Maneki-neko at the temple offices.

You can leave it as an offering or take it home. I bought two. A small one to leave as an offering and a larger one that I keep in my business.

The pavilion where the maneki-neko are left as offerings is really spectacular. Not only because of its beauty and the surroundings, but also because of the number of maneki-neko left as offerings.

Gotokuji temple Tokyo Maneki Neko

Opening hours: every day from 6:00 to 17:00.

Price: free of charge.

How to get there: 4 min walk from Miyanosaka Station. Tokyu-Setagaya tram line.

A MUST-SEE!

25. Tokyu – Setagaya tramway line

This is one of the two remaining active tram lines in Tokyo. It has stops at several interesting points.

It is best to buy a day pass for 330¥.

Setagaya Tokyo

How to get there: the departure station is Sangenjaya.

26. Admiring a different view of Tokyo from Carrot Tower

The Carrot Tower is the tallest tower in Setagaya at 124 metres. On the 25th floor there is a free 360º observation deck with spectacular views.

From here we can admire different views of Tokyo in which few tourists will find.

It also has a restaurant with views, shops and even a theatre.

Tokyo

Opening hours: every day from 7:00 to 22:00.

Price: free of charge.

How to get there: directly connected to Sangenjaya Station on the Tokyu Denentoshi and Setagaya lines.

RECOMMENDED VISIT!

Shibuya (渋谷区)

Shibuya is a neighbourhood dedicated mainly to shopping and entertainment. It is particularly popular with young Tokyoites.

It is best known for Shibuya Crossing, the busiest crossing in the world. It is also known for its many shopping malls such as Shibuya 109, which is very popular with young people, especially teenagers. It is famous for being the origin of the Kogal subculture.

27. Crossing at the famous Shibuya Crossing

Is there anyone who hasn’t heard of the Shibuya Crossing? It is the busiest pedestrian crossing in the world. Almost 2,500,000 people cross it EVERY DAY! That’s more than 10 times the total population of Granada, the city where I live.

Shibuya

How to get there: next to the Jr Shibuya station exit (Yamanote line among others).

A MUST-SEE!

28. Take a photo with Hachiko

Hachiko was a little dog who became famous because every day he accompanied his owner to the train station on his way to work. But one day he died and never came back. So the dog waited for his return for several years until his death.

Hachiko Shibuya

How to get there: next to Shibuya Station.

A MUST-SEE!

29. Admiring the view from the Shibuya Hikarie Building

The Shibuya Hikarie building is an impressive 34-storey shopping and cultural centre.

From the 11th to the 16th floor is the Tokyo Theater Orb, a theatre that seats almost 2,000 people.

From the door there is a huge glass window overlooking the famous Shibuya crossing, which is also free of charge.

Shibuya
Shibuya crossing from Shibuya Hikarie Mall (the dirty glass)

Opening hours: every day from 11:00 to 21:00.

Price: free of charge.

How to get there: next to the east exit of Shibuya Station.

RECOMMENDED VISIT!

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30. Strolling along Takeshita Dori, the world’s geekiest street

Takeshita Dori is a pedestrian street lined with fashion shops, restaurants and cafes. Most of the shops are small, quirky fashion boutiques where you will be amazed by the outfits on display.

You may also find some Japanese tourists dressed in some of these outfits.

Takeshita Dori

How to get there: next to the Takeshita exit of JR Harajuku station (Yamanote line).

A MUST-SEE!

31. Breathing the tranquillity of the Togo Sanctuary

Tōgō Shrine is a Shinto shrine built in 1940. It is dedicated to Gensui, the marquis Tōgō Heihachirō shortly after his death.

It was destroyed during the bombing of Tokyo but rebuilt in 1964.

You can walk through the beautiful gardens and climb up to the main pavilions. It’s hard to believe that this haven of peace is located next to such bustling areas as Takeshita or Omotesandō.

Tokyo

Opening hours: every day from 6:00 to 17:00.

Price: free of charge.

How to get there: after walking along Takeshita Dori, turn left.

32. Meiji Shrine

The Meiji Shrine is a Shinto shrine dedicated to the deified spirits of Emperor Meiji and his wife, Empress Shōken.

After the emperor’s death in 1912, the Diet (government) of Japan passed a resolution to commemorate his role in the Meiji Restoration. Construction began in 1915 and was completed in 1920 with its consecration.

It was destroyed during the bombings of World War II, but was rebuilt in 1958.

Meiji Shrine

Opening hours: daily from 5.20am to 5.20pm.

Price: free of charge.

How to get there: next to JR Harajuku station (Yamanote line). 1 min walk from Tokyo Metro Meiji-jingumae ‘Harajuku’ station (Chiyoda line / Fukutoshin line).

A MUST-SEE!

33. Strolling through Yoyogi Park

Yoyogi Park is one of the largest parks in Tokyo. The park is bustling with activity. Especially on Sundays when it is used as a meeting place for people who want to play music, practice martial arts and other activities. Famous are the rockabilly rallies.

Yoyogi park

How to get there: next to JR Harajuku station (Yamanote line). 1 min walk from Tokyo Metro Meiji-jingumae ‘Harajuku’ station (Chiyoda line / Fukutoshin line).

RECOMMENDED VISIT!

34. See the luxury shops in Omotesandō

Omotesandō is an exclusive shopping district. It is known as one of the most important ‘architectural showcases’ in the world. It contains a large number of luxury shops, such as Louis Vuitton, Prada, Tod’s, Dior, Omotesandō Hills or Gyre.

It’s not uncommon to see luxury cars that few can afford…

How to get there: Tokyo Metro Omote-Sando station.

35. Love Hotels façades

Love Hotel Hill is located in the heart of Shibuya. Love Hotels offer rooms, most of the time themed, which are rented by the hour or for the whole night.

They are rooms to… rest a little, in which we can find all kinds of sex toys and related objects. So we can have a good rest…

Dogenzaka is the area with the highest concentration of this type of hotels in Japan and walking around here is something really curious if you have enough time to spare.

Shinjuku (新宿区)

Shinjuku is Tokyo’s most important commercial and administrative centre. Its name means ‘new inn’.

Its train station is the busiest in the world. More than 3 million passengers pass through it every day.

36. Take in the views from the top of the Metropolitan Government Building

It is a gigantic modern building opened in 1991. From where all districts of the Tokyo metropolitan area are governed.

In one of the towers there is a 200-metre high observation deck that is completely free of charge. All you have to do is go through a fairly strict security check and up you go.

The views are 360º and in each window you have a panel with the most significant buildings marked. On clear days you can see Mount Fuji.

Tokyo
The silhouette of Mount Fuji

Opening hours: from 9:30 to 23:00.

Price: free of charge.

How to get there: 2 min walk from Toei Subway Tochomae Station (Oedo Line).
5 min walk from JR Shinjuku Station.

A MUST-SEE!

37. Kabukichō

Kabukichō is known as Tokyo’s red light district. It is full of bars, hostels, motels, shops, restaurants and nightclubs. Both for women and men.

It’s full of very tough public relations people who are not to be messed with.

The neighbourhood is said to be controlled by the Yakuza, the Japanese mafia. It is not supposed to be very safe, but we have never noticed anything.

Kabukicho

Here you will also find Golden Gai Alley, a narrow alley lined with bars and izakayas, perfect for a drink before going to bed.

A MUST-SEE!

Sumida (墨田区)

It is a largely residential neighbourhood, although it is home to some of Japan’s largest companies such as Asahi Brewers.

It was founded on 15 March 1947 after the merger of the Honjo and Mukojima neighbourhoods.

38. Admiring the view from Tokyo Skytree

Tokyo Skytree is the main telecommunications tower that replaced Tokyo Tower. Built between 2008 and 2012, it is the tallest building in Tokyo at 634 metres. The tower has two observation decks offering 360° views.

The Tokyo Skytree Tembo Deck is 350 metres high. The Tokyo Skytree Tembo Galleria is at 450 metres and the views will take your breath away.

Tokyo skytree

Opening hours: every day from 10:00 to 21:00.

Price:

Tembo DeckTembo Deck + Gallery
Advance sales1.800¥2.700¥
Daytime sales2.100¥3.100¥

How to get there: next to Tokyo Skytree station (Tobu Skytree line).
Next to Oshiage – Skytree station of Toei Subway (Asakusa line / Hanzomon line).

RECOMMENDED VISIT!

39. Taking a photo with the Dorado poo

The Asahi Beer Hall is a rather… peculiar building. It was built in 1989 by the French architect Philippe Starck.

For the building Starck was inspired by a beer mug, hence the golden colour of the beer crowned by its foam on top.

Next to it is the Flamme D’Or, representing the ‘fiery heart of Asahi beer’ and the foam of a beer glass.

It looks like a big golden turd to both us and the Japanese. They call it kin no unko (金のうんこ) or golden poo.

asahi beer hall

How to get there: to get a good photo, it is best to get to Asakusa station on the Tokyo Metro / Toei Subway (Asakusa line / Ginza line).

40. Take a cruise on the Sumida River

Like all cities we visit with a river, we like to take a river cruise to get a different perspective of the city.

The Sumida River cruise shows you the deeper side of Tokyo, the side you don’t see in the guidebooks or on a walk. It is not particularly beautiful but it is really interesting.

For information on fares, check the official website: https://www.suijobus.co.jp/en/price/

Taitō (台東区)

Taitō was established on 15 March 1947 and is the district in which the spectacular Ueno Park is located. The Ueno district was the site of the battle where the imperial forces defeated the last holdout of the Tokugawa shogunate in 1868.

Taitō is home to the Sumidagawa fireworks festival, the Asakusa samba carnival, and the Sanja Matsuri festival, one of Tokyo’s three major festivals.

41. Strolling around Senso-ji Temple

Sensō-ji temple is the oldest Buddhist temple in Tokyo and one of the most important. Founded in 645, it is dedicated to Kannon, the deity of mercy.

Legend has it that it was built when two brothers found a statue of Kannon in the Sumida River in the 7th century. It was decided to enshrine her in a small temple so that all the inhabitants could worship her.

The temple gained popularity over the years, so much so that the Shōgun Tokugawa Iemitsu (1604 – 1651) built the vast majority of the buildings that make up the temple complex we see today.

Senso-ji temple

Price: free.

How to get there: Tokyo Metro Asakusa Station Exit 3 / Toei Subway (Asakusa line / Ginza line).

A MUST-SEE!

42. Crossing the Kaminarimon Gate or Thunder Gate

It is the outer gate of the temple and a symbol of Tokyo. It was built in 942 although it was originally located elsewhere. It was moved to its current location in 1635, which is believed to be when the statues of Raijin and Fūjin were added. These are the gods of thunder and wind.

The gate has been destroyed and rebuilt several times, the current one dating from 1960.

The star of the gate is its gigantic chōchin, a huge paper and bamboo lamp 4 metres high and more than 3 metres in circumference.

The chōchin is actually a 2003 reconstruction donated by the Panasonic company.

Asakusa

A MUST-SEE!

43. Buying some souvenirs on Nakamise Street

As we cross the Kaminarimon gate, we enter the Nakamise shopping street. It is a 250-metre long street with 89 small shops selling traditional sweets and souvenirs. If you go there in summer, don’t forget your melonpan filled with ice cream…

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44. Strolling for hours in Ueno Park

Ueno Park is a large and popular park in the northeast of Tokyo. It is home to many tourist attractions such as the zoo with its panda bears, museums and temples.

The Ueno district was the site of the battle where the imperial forces defeated the last holdout of the Tokugawa shogunate in 1868.

Ueno Park was created on the site of the battle and converted into a public park in 1873. Emperor Taishō Tennō donated the park to the city of Tokyo in 1924.

Opening hours: daily from 5:00 to 23:00.

How to get there: next to JR Ueno Station (Yamanote line) and Tokyo Metro.

A MUST-SEE!

45. The spectacular Ueno Shrine Tōshō-gū

Ueno Tōshō-gū Shrine was built in 1627 by Tōdō Takatora. It has remained largely intact since Tokugawa Iemitsu’s renovation in 1651.

The shrines of Tōshō-gū are characterised by enshrining Tokugawa Ieyasu with the name Tōshō Daigongen.

The main shrine, mostly gilded with colourfully sculpted dragons and animals, is a real beauty.

Ueno Shrine Tōshō-gū

Opening hours: October to February from 9:00 to 16:30 / March to September from 9:00 to 17:30.

Price: 500¥.

How to get there: inside Ueno Park.

A MUST-SEE!

46. Admiring the Five-Story Kan’ei-ji Pagoda

Adjacent to Ueno Tōshō-gū Shrine is the five-storey pagoda of the former Kyū Kaneiji Gojūnotō Temple.

The first pagoda was built by Toshikatsu Doi in 1631 (8th year of Kanei) as part of the Ueno Toshogu Shrine, but was destroyed by fire in 1639 (16th year of Kanei).

In the same year, Munehiro Koura, who was the chief builder of Sakujikata in the Shogunate, rebuilt the present pagoda.

Ueno Tokyo

47. Taking a boat ride on Shinobazu Pond

It is a large natural pond and is the remnant of ancient marshes that covered most of the former Shitamachi. Its present name was already in use in the 15th century.

The shape of the pond until the beginning of the Meiji Era was very different from today, particularly the northern part where Ueno Zoo is located, which was much wider.

In 1884 a horse racing cooperative wanted to open a racetrack and partially filled in the pond, giving it its present shape and size. Races were held there until 1892.

Ueno Tokyo

48. Stroll through Yanaka Cemetery Park

Yanaka Cemetery Park is considered one of the most beautiful cemeteries in Tokyo. It is home to the tombs of illustrious figures such as Tokugawa Yoshinobu, the last shogun of the Edo period, as well as famous painters, politicians and actors.

Tokyo

How to get there: next to JR Nippori station (Yamanote line) and Tokyo Metro.

RECOMMENDED VISIT!

49. Shopping at the Ameyoko Street market

The Ameyoko Street Market is very popular with tourists. It used to be a street with fish stalls. Nowadays, there is a wide variety of shops selling a wide range of goods including clothes and other foodstuffs.

How to get there: Ameyoko Street is located between JR Ueno and Okachimachi stations (Yamanote line).

Extra

50. Visiting a Daiso or a Don Quijote

The Daiso chain shop is the most popular 100-yen shop in Japan. You can find everything from cutlery to food. You can browse through thousands of curious and quirky knick-knacks. And I’m telling you, you won’t be able to leave without buying something. You’re sure to pick something up.

Don Quijote (or Donki) is a chain of shops with a wide variety of products and good prices. Their mascot is a blue penguin with a sleeping cap, not a Father Christmas hat.

You will see that they are always packed to the rafters with people and you will have a hard time finding things if you are looking for something specific because they are piled up, for me, without order or order.

Don Quijote Japan

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Kyoto (京都市)

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On this page you can find general information about the beautiful city of Kyoto, from its history to learning how to get around.

Kyoto (京都市) is the 7th most populous city in Japan with almost 1.5 million inhabitants. It was the capital of Japan between 794 and 1868 and was home to the Imperial Court.

During World War II it was the only major Japanese city to escape the Allied bombing raids. For this reason, its rich historical, artistic and architectural heritage remains intact.

Content:

Kyoto practical information:

Travel Diaries

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Kyoto. Practical guide

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Everything you need to know about Kyoto, the ancient capital of Japan.

Content:

1. How to get to Kyoto

Train

The train is the most common way to get to Kyoto, since it does not have its own airport.

We will arrive at Kyoto station, a modern (and gigantic) building inaugurated in 1997 to commemorate the 1,200th anniversary of the founding of the city. The station has 15 conventional tracks and 4 high-speed tracks, as well as 33 platforms.

The station is located in the center of the city and a multitude of bus taxi lines depart from the entrance and includes a metro station.

At the station we can also find the tourist information office.

Kyoto station website: https://www.jr-odekake.net

Flight

The nearest airport is Kansai International Airport. The easiest way to get to Kyoto from the airport is by train.

The direct train is the Haruka Express. It takes around 1:15 a.m. and the price is 3,430 yen (€26.30) but it is included in the JRPass.

You can purchase the JR Pass and receive it comfortably at home clicking here:

Japan Rail Pass

The frequency is every 30 minutes, leaving from Kansai to Kyoto between 6:30 and 22:16; and from Kyoto to Kansai between 6:37 and 22:50.

Plano Haruka Express
Haruka Express

More information at: https://www.westjr.co.jp/global/en/travel/shopping/access/train.html

For more comfort you can hire a transfer service to the door of your hotel:

Transfer in Kyoto

How to get around Kyoto

Bus

It is the most convenient way to travel around Kyoto. They arrive at any point in the city. The price is always fixed: ¥230 (€1.76) for adults and ¥120 (€0.92) for children.

There are certain lines that operate on weekends at dawn, such as lines 204 and 205 (which run through the most touristic area) and their price is just double: ¥460 for adults and ¥240 for children.

There is also a day pass. The price is ¥600 (€4.60) for adults and ¥300 (€2.30) for children. You can buy it on the bus from the driver or in vending machines at the train station stops.

The pass is valid only for the day it is validated, not for 24 hours. That is, if you buy it and validate it on July 20 at 2 p.m., it is valid until 11:59 p.m. on July 20.

Kyoto bus pass
Kyoto bus pass

The bus is accessed through the back door and exits through the front. When you arrive at your stop, you insert the bill and the exact money in coins into a machine next to the driver. If you don’t have change, don’t worry, you can change money in another machine that is in the same place. If you have the 1 day pass, just show it to the driver.

Kyoto City Bus website: https://www2.city.kyoto.lg.jp/kotsu/webguide/en/bus/index_bus.html

Subway

The Kyoto subway consists of only 2 lines, the Tozai (東西線) in green and the Karasuma (烏丸線) in red. The Tozai line runs through the city from north to south and the karasuma from east to west.

The metro runs between 5:00 and 23:00. The price of the ticket depends on the length of the journey you are going to make. These range from 220 to 360 yen (€1.69 – €2.76) for adults, and between 110 and 180 yen for children. There is also a day pass, which costs the same as the bus pass and works the same.

The truth is that the Kyoto subway is going to be very impractical for us and, surely, we will not use it.

Kyoto City Subway website: https://www2.city.kyoto.lg.jp/kotsu/webguide/en/tika/index_tika.html

Train

We won’t be able to use the JR trains for long, but it is very convenient to go from the train station to Arashiyama with the JR San-In line in about 15-20 minutes, much less than by bus.

Taxi

The taxi in Kyoto is extremely expensive and, unless it is necessary because it is very late at night and there is no bus service, it will be very strange that we take it.

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Japan 2018 (II): Kyoto – Miyajima – Okayama – Osaka

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We continue with our second trip to Japan.

July 19th

Early morning and the train station. We take the shinkansen back to Kyoto at 9:08 in the morning. At 9.45 we arrive and we go directly to the hotel to see if we could leave our things. The chosen one was the Orient Gojozaka, where we stayed for a week in 2016. It is very well priced and is a small apartment with a kitchen, a desktop PC in the room with internet connection and, most importantly, a washer and dryer.

Remember to always travel with travel insurance. With IATI, specialists in travel insurance, you have a 5% discount for being our reader.

Upon arrival at the accommodation, at reception they told us that there was already a room ready that if we wanted to check-in now. Marvelous! We settled in and went to Kodai-ji Temple (高台寺).

The Kodai-ji Temple (高台寺 ) is located in Higashiyama next to the Ryozen Kannon temple and is one of the essential temples in Kyoto. It was founded in 1605 by Kita-no-Mandokoro as a memory of her husband, Toyotomi Hideyoshi.

Kodai-ji Temple (高台寺 )

Despite the heat, a very pleasant walk through its gardens is made, visiting the many pavilions of the temple and its small bamboo forest.

As soon as we leave the temple we find the Kodai-ji Sho museum (高台寺掌美術館), a small museum with old items and paintings. It is very curious and with air conditioning.

At the exit we went for a walk through the neighborhood until we reached a bus stop where we took one to the Heian Shrine (平安神宮). This sanctuary is another of the essentials of Kyoto, especially for the well-known and gigantic entrance Torii.

Heian Shrine (平安神宮)

The Shinto shrine was built in 1895 to commemorate the 1,100th anniversary of the city of Heiankyō, to honor Emperor Kammu as the kami, or god of the city. There was a part under construction but you could see most of it (from shadow to shadow).

After the hot walk we went straight to eat at Ramen Miyako restaurant, which, as its name suggests, is a ramen restaurant. We discovered it in 2016 by chance and it’s possibly the best ramen I’ve ever had, so we have no hesitation in going back. You may have to queue but it’s worth it.

Miyako Ramen

On the way out we ate some kakigori, traditional ice creams at the Cha-Cha ice cream parlor very close to the hotel.

After the refreshing break, we took the JR San-in Line from Kyoto Station to Sagano-Arashiyama Station. We wanted to see the Arashiyama Monkey Park which in 2016 we had to discard due to lack of time. Bad luck was upon us and it closed at 4:30 p.m. and there was barely half an hour left, so we have to leave it for a future trip.

We dedicated ourselves to walking through the area contemplating the Togetsu-Kyo Bridge (渡月橋), built in the Jowa period (834-848) is the most famous bridge in Arashiyama, which crosses the Katsura River. From it you can perfectly contemplate the change of seasons during the year, from the momiji to the cherry blossoms.

Togetsu-Kyo Bridge (渡月橋)

We continue the pleasant walk through the area until we end up at the Tenryu-ji Temple (天龍寺), one of the essentials of Kyoto. Built in 1339, it is one of the 5 most important Rinzai in Kyoto. It is next to the Arashiyama bamboo forest and is perfect to combine both visits. We arrived after hours and the pavilions were closed but access to the temple grounds was open. The enclosure is wonderful and has spectacular views of the mountains.

Tenryu-ji Temple (天龍寺)
Tenryu-ji Temple (天龍寺)

After the visit we took the train back. We went up to the roof of Kyoto station, which has truly spectacular views.

Kyoto station
Kyoto Tower

It was starting to be dinner time so we took a bus to Pontocho. There we ate some noodles in a place that we discovered in 2016. A place that, despite being in the heart of tourism, is very cheap and quite shabby and we discovered it because there were only workers eating inside. I couldn’t say the name since the sign is in Japanese and it’s not on google maps. On maps you can locate it because it is next to a bar called “moon walk Shijo Kiyamachi”. Here I leave a photo of the restaurant entrance.

kyoto
kyoto

The place is very small, barely 7 or 8 people can fit in, but it is worth waiting a bit because they are delicious.

After filling our stomachs, we took a walk through Pontocho and Gion and took the opportunity to see the Yasaka Sanctuary at night, which is spectacular. From there to the accommodation taking a walk to go to bed early because the next day we had to get up early and a hard day awaited us.

Along the way we discovered a large supermarket called Fresco. It was very cheap and open 24 hours. As it was very late, I already had many discounted products. We took the opportunity to buy breakfast for the next day, several sweets that were greatly reduced because they expired the next day.

Yasaka Shrine
Yasaka shrine

July 20th

Today is hiking. We do the route that connects the villages of Kibune with Kurama, in the mountains of northern Kyoto.

We got up very early and went to the Kiyomizu-Gojō station, which is the closest to the accommodation. There we took the private Keihan Main Line to Demachiyanagi station where we changed to the Eizan Main Line (also private) to Kibuneguchi station. In total about 45 min of travel and 700 yen (€5.63). As good foreigners, we are wrong about the price. As soon as we got off at the station, a company employee asked us for our ticket and sent another man to pay the difference. As it was basically a halt, there was no price adjustment machine like in other stations.

From the station we took a walk (you can get there by bus) to the Kifune-jinja Shrine (貴船神社). It’s about 2 km but the walk through the forest is very pleasant and at that time it wasn’t (yet) too hot, although it wasn’t too good vibes to see signs warning of bears along the way.

Kibune
Kibune

The Kifune-jinja Shrine (貴船神社), founded in the year 1055 and is dedicated to Takaokami no Kami, god of water.

In summer, in the surroundings of the temple along the river, numerous restaurants are installed on its shore. We couldn’t take advantage of them because it was too early to eat.

The temple is nestled in a truly spectacular wooded environment and it is 100% recommended to visit it, in addition, admission is free. There we bought some omikuji or fortune papers that became visible with the water, you had to put the paper on the water of the stream that passed through the temple and the message appeared in Japanese, but, very modern, it had a QR code on it. the one who gave you the English translation.

Kifune-jinja Shrine (貴船神社)
Kifune-jinja Shrine (貴船神社)

After visiting the shrine, we set off towards Kurama. To do it we have to go to the red bridge and when we cross it we find the Nishi no mon (西の門) entrance gate, where you have to pay 300 yen (€2.41) to enter the route.

From there begins a good set of stairs through the lush forest, which becomes hard with the heat and humidity but is spectacular.

Kibune - Kurama

After a long time climbing the stairs, we arrive at a landing where the Oku-no-in Mao-den (奥の院魔王殿) temple is located. There are some benches where we sit down to rest a bit. While they were sitting down I took out a small fan that connects to the mobile and on the next bench there were two gentlemen (quite old) who began to laugh at me. And it only occurs to me to tell them in Spanish: “what you have is envy.” I think they imagined what I told them because the four of us began to laugh out loud.

Kibune - Kurama
Oku-no-in Mao-den (奥の院魔王殿)

We continue up a bit more and arrive at the small temple Sōjō-ga-dani Fudō-dō (僧正ガ谷不動堂) dedicated to Fudo, one of the Buddhist gods of light. There we rest a little bit to continue climbing a little more.

We pass through the famous walk of the cedar roots (Kinone-michi (木の根道)) and begin the descent passing through the Jizo-do temple (地蔵堂), with beautiful views, and the natural water source Ushiwakamaru no chikaramizu (牛 若丸の力水) which was very fresh. And leaving behind some warnings to watch out for bears, snakes and giant hornets.

Kibune - Kurama
Kibune - Kurama
cedar roots (Kinone-michi (木の根道))

Going down a little more, we arrive at the Kurama-dera Temple (鞍馬寺), the main visit on the route. The temple was founded by one of the disciples of the Chinese monk Ganjin. During the Heian period it was a very popular temple. It belonged to Tendai Buddhism for a long time, but in 1949 it was established as an independent temple of the Kurama Buddhist school.

The visit must be taken with time because the temple is beautiful and has spectacular views of the surrounding mountains. From its viewpoint you can see the wooded sea that surrounds the temple.

There we made a good stop on the way. We bought some cookies and soft drinks and rested taking advantage of the haven of peace that was the complex (at least that day).

Kurama-dera Temple (鞍馬寺)
Kurama-dera Temple (鞍馬寺)
Kurama-dera Temple (鞍馬寺)
Views from the temple

We continued descending calmly towards Kurama although already a little lighter since it was almost 4 in the afternoon and my stomach was beginning to complain.

We arrived at Kurama and we found a big problem: the few places to eat were closed and there were no combins or anything. And now that? Well, hold on until you get to Kyoto, because before you had a bath in the open-air onsen of Kurama.

Kurama-dera Temple (鞍馬寺)
Kurama Tengu

To get to the onsen you can walk about 15 minutes, or take a free shuttle bus from the train station parking lot that runs every 10 minutes. We chose the second option since with the heat and an empty stomach things were complicated.

In the Onsen you can use the entire bath for 2,500 yen (€20.11) or just the outdoor bath (rotenburo) for 1,000 yen (€8). If you stay at the ryokan, admission is free. We choose the rotenburo.

Before entering there is a booth where you pay 1,000 yen (€8). Right there you can take some towels so there is no need to carry them from home. The small face towels are 300 yen (€2.41) and you can keep them, and the big ones are 400 yen (€3.20) and those are rented, you have to return them.

The bathrooms are spectacular. In the middle of the forest with stunning views of the surrounding forest. In winter with the snow it has to be a real blast. The only “downside” is that it is very touristy and there were too many western tourists (like us hahaha).

Kurama onsen
Entrance to the rotenburo

About an hour and a half later we decided to go back to Kyoto for an early dinner that we still hadn’t eaten.

A little shower and a walk along Shijo-dori street and through its shotengai and a dinner based on grilled eel in a Sukiya. And soon to bed you had to get up early again.

July 21st

Today we played a destination that we already visited in 2016 but that we lacked things to see. It’s so impressive that you had to go back: Miyajima.

It is an island south of Hiroshima in the Seto Inland Sea. Known for its impressive floating Torii at Itsukushima Shrine.

If you have little time to visit the island and you don’t want to sleep there, you can always hire a guided excursion from Hiroshima:

what to do in Miyajima

We got up very early and took the shinkansen at 8 in the morning. At 9:56 we arrived in Hiroshima and changed to the Sanyo line (via Iwakuni) which left at 10:15 and arrived at Miyajimaguchi station at 10:43. We passed a combini on the way to the ferry and got on the JR ferry (included in the JR Pass) at 10:55. At certain times of the day, the outward journey of the ferry is lengthened a bit and passes by the great Torii to be able to admire and photograph it.

Miyajima

As we got off the ferry we went directly to the ryokan where we were going to sleep that night. The chosen one was the Sakuraya hotel, very close to the ferry station. Very comfortable and with a very simple onsen but, like all, it is a great pleasure.

We left our things and ran towards the Daishō-in temple (大聖院). One of the most important temples of the Shingon Buddhist sect. The temple area is very large and with many stairs, but you can walk very well under the shade of the trees, visiting the different buildings. I would say that it is a must visit in Miyajima.

Daishō-in temple (大聖院)
Daishō-in temple (大聖院)

After visiting the temple, it was time for the main visit for which we had returned to Miyajima two years later: climbing Mount Misen.

We headed for the cable car but, instead of going through the town, we went through the Momijidani park enjoying the scenery. The price of the cable car is 1,000 yen (€8) one way and 1,800 yen (€14.40) round trip.

Already along the way we anticipated that the excursion was going to be surprising. We first got on a tiny four-seater cable car in which only the two of us were going. The views from this first cable car were truly wonderful, through the lush forest of the island.

Halfway there we changed to a larger cable car and in which we were going at least 10 people from which part of the Seto Inland Sea could be seen and they were giving information in Japanese through a loudspeaker. A real past.

Mount Misen Miyajima

The cable car leaves us at an information center where there are drink machines (of course) and a restaurant (not expensive) with incredible views.

Outside the center, there are several viewpoints to admire the very very cool views of the Seto Sea.

From here, we begin the climb on foot to the top of Mount Misen. The path is almost all a path with quite irregular steps but relatively simple and very beautiful. On google it says that it takes about 20 minutes but, I don’t know if because of the heat, it took us about an hour.

On the way we pass by the Misen Hondo Hall, where Kobo Daishi, founder of the Shingon Buddhist sect, stayed for 100 days to meditate. During those days, through an ascetic ceremony, he lit a fire by burning goma-gi. That flame lives on to this day 1,200 years later in the Reikado hall. With that same flame the flame of peace in Hiroshima was lit.

The hall is also known as the sanctuary of lovers because of the eternal flame that symbolizes eternal love.

Mount Misen Miyajima
Misen Hondo Hall

After a little rest in the shade and a bottle of cold water, we continue up to the top passing through the Sankido hall, dedicated to three ogres with wisdom, fortune and exorcism; but also to home security and business prosperity.

On the way we pass through the Kannondo and Monjudo halls. The first to promote easy childbirth and the second to succeed in studies.

A little further up we pass the Fudo-iwa rock, where there is a statue of Fudo Myoo, protector of the Shingon Buddhist sect, and the Kuguri-iwa rock, which forms an arch through which you have to go through to continue the path.

Mount Misen Miyajima

A little further up we finally reached the top of the mountain. There is a viewpoint from which there are truly spectacular 360º views. You can see the Seto Inland Sea, the coast of Honsu and even the city of Hiroshima. In addition, in the viewpoint there are bathrooms, wifi and a small information desk. It was really worth going up.

Mount Misen Miyajima
Mount Misen Miyajima

We rested for a while in the viewpoint to the shade and we got ready to go down. For this we decided to do the whole tour on foot. Despite being down, it is quite hard, since there are about 3 kilometers in which almost all the time is going down stairs. We ended up with busted knees. But the trail is wonderful, you come across a temple and some charming little corners with a bench so you can rest admiring the views.

Mount Misen Miyajima

Throughout the trail, as in other hiking trails we had done in Japan, there were signs warning that there were poisonous snakes, deadly poisonous Mamushi vipers. Rigorous photo and walk. It’s all laughter and joy until you come across one and shit yourself, and instead of standing still and waiting for it to happen as they tell you, you jump up and run.

With the scare in the body you keep going down. When you start to calm down after a while PAM! Other. On this occasion, already psyched up, if we stay still to wait for him to leave. So as advice, pay attention and be careful.

Mount Misen Miyajima

Approximately after an hour and a half we reach the town. It was almost 4 in the afternoon and we still hadn’t eaten. It was difficult to find an open place to eat at that time but after trying several restaurants, we finally managed to eat a katsudon and a tonkatsu chicken.

After eating we checked in at the ryokan and took our first relaxing bath in the onsen. Very quiet since at that time it was empty.

After the bath we went for a walk and to watch the sunset with the great Torii. This time we coincided with high tide, unlike when we were in 2016.

It is a truly spectacular sunset. It is said that it is one of the most beautiful in the world and, for the moment, it is the most beautiful that I have seen.

Miyajima

After dark, we took the ferry to buy some dinner in a combini next to the station and on the way we went back.

We ate quietly and went for a night walk. At night the town breathes absolute tranquility. Without cars and only with some tourists who spent the night on the island like us. What a pity that the night ended because it was a magical walk, but you had to get up early. After the night walk, a last bath in the onsen of the ryokan, and to rest.

Miyajima
Miyajima

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July 22nd

It was time to get up early again. We took the 8.40 ferry and at 9.09 the JR Sanyo line to Hiroshima. There we changed to the shinkansen at 9.54. It was going to burst and we had to sit separately in different carriages, but since the destination was Okayama 40 minutes away, it wasn’t much of a problem either.

At 10:34 we arrived in Okayama. We left our bags in a locker at the station that cost us 700 yen (€5.60) and we got on the tram to the crow, the black castle of Okayama (岡山城). Then we found out that we could have saved a few yen and walked since it was so close.

We got off the tram and took a nice walk along the banks of the Asahi River to the castle complex.

Okayama Castle, called the crow because of the black color of the building, was built in 1597 by order of Toyotomi Hideyoshi. Over the years it deteriorated and some of its 35 towers fell due to lack of maintenance.

During the bombings of the Second World War, almost everything that was left standing burned. Of the original building, only the foundations, parts of the wall and the observation tower of the moon remain. The main tower that can be visited today was rebuilt in 1966.

Okayama Castle

After visiting the castle, we went back (this time on foot) to the train station. We got on the shinkansen at 12:35. We reached shin-Osaka 49 minutes later and went directly to the hotel. It was difficult for us to find it since the wrong address came in booking and without data on the mobile … After about half an hour walking around we found it. It is the APA Hotel Higashi Umeda Minami Morimachi Ekimae. Recently inaugurated and, in addition, with breakfast included. Like almost all the hotels in which we have stayed in Japan on the two trips, the room is small but very clean and even elegant.

We left our things and rested a bit while I searched the internet for a place to eat. The chosen one was a small okonomiyaki restaurant called Yukari tensan in a shotengai near the hotel. As soon as you enter, you have to take off your shoes and leave your shoes at the entrance. The okonomiyaki was really spectacular, it was quite a discovery. The meal cost us 2,420 yen (€19.38) for two okonomiyakis and a beer.

After eating we walked through the shotengai towards the Osaka Tenman-gu Shrine (大阪天満宮) shrine. A famous (and touristy) Shinto shrine dedicated to Sugawara Michizane built in 1845. We coincided with the Tenjin festival, one of the most famous in Japan that is celebrated from the end of June to July 25. In fact, we were able to see a small female “procession” carrying a small throne through the shotengai the next day.

Osaka Tenman-gu Shrine (大阪天満宮)
Osaka Tenman-gu Shrine (大阪天満宮)

We took a short walk around the shrine and took the subway to Ebisuchō station for a night walk through the Shinsekai (新世界) neighborhood. Osaka’s entertainment district par excellence, with the Tsutenkaku tower (通天閣) as its flag, with its 103 meters is one of the symbols of the city.

The Tsutenkaku Tower (通天閣), was built in 1912 as part of an amusement park. In 1943 a serious fire left it badly damaged and it was dismantled and rebuilt in 1956 by the Hitachi company.

Tsutenkaku Tower (通天閣)

After World War II, Shinsekai gradually deteriorated to become the most dangerous and poorest area in all of Japan. It seems that it is still considered dangerous but we did not think so, at least the area of the tower and the restaurants. It is very curious to walk through its lively streets full of restaurants with impressive ornate facades to attract the attention of passers-by.

Shinsekai

After an exhausting walk among so many people, we decided to go to the Dotonbori area for a night walk in the area and have dinner at a restaurant that we had booked online.

We had dinner at a small teppanyaki restaurant that serves Kobe beef. It’s called Wanomiya and I can’t say the price since it was a birthday gift they gave me. We took two menus and the meat was to cry. What a delicious thing. The cook was giving us advice on how to eat it, it was spectacular even the vegetables. Will have to go back.

Osaka

After dinner we took another little walk around Dotonbori and went back to sleep.

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What to do in Osaka

July 23rd

Today is excursion. We got up very early and as we had breakfast included in the hotel, we took a good look at the buffet and left for the station.

At 8.25 we got on the train to Shin-Osaka and there we changed to the shinkansen at 8.39 to Himeji, where we arrived at 9.15 in the morning. At the station there was a small exhibition about the Nada No Kenka Matsuri (held in October). In it you can see some photographs and one of the thrones that they take out during the festival.

Himeji

We left the station and walked along the avenue that leads to Himeji Castle (姫路城). It is a small walk of 1 km. and it can be done quietly on foot.

Himeji Castle (姫路城)

Himeji Castle (姫路城), was the first place in all of Japan to be inscribed as a World Heritage Site. It is one of the 12 original castles that remain in Japan and is one of the most spectacular in the country. It is worth dedicating a morning to explore it.

Himeji Castle (姫路城)

After spending the morning visiting Himeji castle we went back to Osaka to take the train to Kii-Katsuura.

That day the heat was really unbearable, waiting for the train to Kii-Katsuura we were on the verge of collapse, infernal heat on the platform and the station hall had no air conditioning. Later, when we hooked up Wi-Fi, whatsapp messages began to arrive from Spain that if we were okay, that they had seen that we were in Japan in the middle of a heat wave and that on that particular day, the highest temperatures in the history of Japan had been recorded, and it was in Osaka as well. It really was hell. To make matters worse, the train that had to leave at 5:23 p.m. was almost half an hour late.

The train finally arrived and, what a thing, it was a panda bear! The train was almost empty and air conditioned. As soon as we get on and before sitting down, to change our clothes and clean up a bit to travel as comfortable as possible. We had 4 hours of rest in the cool until our destination. Although we were somewhat worried when we saw the instructions on what to do in the event of a tsunami in the seat pocket. Of course, explained by a panda bear.

Kii-Katsuura
Kii-Katsuura

Around 9:30 p.m. we arrived at Kii-Katsuura. It is a small coastal town, which is the tuna mecca in Japan and, in addition, it is one of the gateways to the Kumano Kodo route, the most important pilgrimage route in Japan. Although the Kumano Kodo is really a network of roads through Japan of about 1,200 km.

As soon as we left the small station we went to the hotel. It’s the Charmant Hotel, a small independent hotel run by a fairly elderly lady who was really lovely. Despite only speaking Japanese, she managed to explain everything to us about the Kumano Kodo route. Where to catch the bus and the line, where to get off, what to visit, where to catch the bus back… She also recommended where to eat the next day. In the fridge she leaves you some juices and water for free and some sweets. In addition, in the afternoon he invites you to a sweet bean soup very typical of the area.

We left our things in the room and went to a nearby familymart to buy some dinner, since everything was closed in the town at that time. The truth is that it seemed like a ghost town and it was not 10 at night.

On the way back, have dinner and go to sleep, it was going to be a hard day.

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Mount Nokogiri or Nokogiriyama (鋸山)

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Today we are going to talk a little more in depth about Mount Nokogiri (鋸山), a beautiful excursion from Tokyo. I think it’s the one I liked the most (so far). His thing is to get up early and go early since the road is long and slow to get there.

Nokogiriyama (鋸山) is a 330-meter mountain on the western coast of the Bōsō Peninsula in southern Chiba Prefecture. Its name means mountain range. It faces the Uraga Channel, the waterway that connects Tokyo Bay and Sagami Gulf. The distinctive features of Mount Nokogiri are its sawtooth-shaped ridges (hence its name). These were created by the extraction of building stone during the Edo period.

Stretching along the slopes of the mountain is Nihonji Temple (日本寺), a Sōtō Zen Buddhist temple (曹洞宗). It was built in the year 725, which makes it one of the oldest temples in the Kantō region.

The temple complex is extensive and consists of multiple areas. A network of walking trails connects the areas that will take us a whole morning to explore and enjoy.

Here we leave you a map taken from the official website of the Nihonji Temple (in Japanese): http://www.nihonji.jp/

Nihonji Temple (日本寺)

It was inaugurated on June 8, 725 by Emperor Shōmu Tennō and the priest Bosatsu Gyōki (行基). He first belonged to the Hosso sect, then to the Tendai sect, and then to the Shingon sect. It became the Sōtō Zen sect during the reign of the third shōgun Tokugawa Iemitsu when it became a center of Zen practice.

In the Kantō region, Nihon-ji is the only Nara Period temple built by imperial decree (such temples were known as chokugansho (勅願所)). Some ancient documents say that the emperor donated 18 tons of gold to the temple. An imperial tablet written by the emperor himself and a scroll depicting 33 Buddha images personally embroidered by Empress Kōmyō.

According to the historical stone monuments that still exist today, the temple consisted of seven shrines, twelve monastic buildings and one hundred lodges for priests.

The temple’s fame reached its peak in the Edo period (1603-1868), especially under the rule of the third shōgun, Tokugawa Iemitsu. It was in 1774 that Guden (愚伝), the head priest of Nihon-ji, expanded the temple and made Nokogiriyama into a sacred mountain. The Nihon-ji Daibutsu and the 1,500 arhats were added to the southern slope in the same period. The temple suffered considerably in the aftermath of the Meiji Restoration, when the haibutsu kishaku (廃仏毀釈), an anti-Buddhist movement, resulted in extensive destruction of temple property. Many of the arhats were beheaded, but later restored.

Sculpture of an Arhat

The main deity of the temple is Yakushi Ruriko Nyorai (Medicine Buddha). Originally revered solely by ruling sovereigns and judicial elites for his own personal benefits (to cure life-threatening diseases), Yakushi would later become the central deity in 8th-century rites to ensure the well-being of the entire kingdom. In the early 9th century, the deity was also called upon to appease vengeful spirits that cause calamities. The main feature is that he has a medicine bottle in his left hand.

Yakushi Ruriko Nyorai is said to heal war wounds, so numerous military commanders have visited this temple. After losing the Battle of Mount Ishibashi, Minamoto no Yoritomo prayed for luck at Nihonji Temple.

Immediately after the start of the Kamakura Shogunate, Minamoto no Yoritomo set about demolishing all Japanese temples that were in disrepair, and rebuilt the Yakushi Honden in the first year of Yowa (1181). Nihonji Temple, which was completely renovated by Yoritomo, would be devastated again due to the continuous fire of the second half of the Kamakura Shogunate, but Takashi Ashikaga will rebuild it again in the 14th century. It was also rebuilt again in the 16th century by the Satomi clan, the local warlords of Awa Province.

Visiting Mount Nokogiri

The most common and popular entrance is the one that is made through the cable car located in the city of Kanaya.

It is convenient to bring water since we will only find water in the vending machines that are next to the Big Buddha and next to the cable car exit.

The only public baths are also very close to the Big Buddha.

The entrance fee (2020) is ¥600 for adults and ¥400 for children.

Summit Area (山頂エリア)

We entered from the cable car station, where there are vending machines for drinks and a small restaurant.

From this point we have spectacular views of the area surrounding Kanaya and of Hota.

From here starts the path that leads to the door where we pay our entrance and they give us a map and an informative brochure.

We climbed about a million steps and arrived at the spectacular and gigantic 30-meter sculpture of Hyaku-Shaku Kannon (百尺観音). Although it looks like it has been here for centuries, it was carved between 1960 and 1966 to commemorate the victims of World War II and traffic accidents. He is revered as a deity to protect the safety of nautical, air, and land transportation.

Hyaku-Shaku Kannon (百尺観音)

After climbing about another million steps in the tremendously humid July heat, we arrived at the Jigoku Nozoki (地獄のぞき) viewing area, the “View of Hell”. The most famous and spectacular viewpoint in Nokogiriyama, it offers stunning views of the Bōsō Peninsula and the Uraga Channel. Across the bay, you can see the Miura Peninsula and, on clear days, Mount Fuji. It consists of a small ledge on the mountain from which there are truly spectacular views while you seem to be suspended in the air. You have to queue to gain access since, from the front, you can take some very cool photos at the viewpoint.

Jigoku Nozoki (地獄のぞき), the “View of Hell”

Rakan Area (羅漢エリア)

After taking the obligatory photos we began the descent. We do it along the main path, the path of the 1,500 arhats (千五百羅漢).

In Buddhism, an arhat is someone who has gained a deep understanding of the true nature of existence, who has reached nirvana and therefore will not reincarnate.

Arhat sculptures

Like Arhats in other parts of Asia, they resemble Li Guangxiu’s brilliant set of figures at the Bamboo Temple outside Kunming in China: each facial expression is different, from the beatific to the Tradition holds that if you start Counting your own age from a certain figure, you will arrive at the Arhat that most resembles your own character and your inner being. You may not like what you find.

Well, on the slope of the mountain there are stone images of 1,500 Tokai Arhats, made by the artist Jingorō Eirei Ōno and his 27 students during 19 years (between 1779 and 1798), carved in a special stone brought from the Izu peninsula. . These Tokai Arhats are found in small natural caves and on carved rocks. Unfortunately, many were destroyed during an Anti-Buddhist Movement in the Meiji period, between 1868 and 1873, reducing their number to 538. That is why sometimes only parts of the statues remain. Many of them have recently been restored.

The way down is truly incredible, with the sculptures in the spectacular wooded setting of the mountain, making you forget the tremendous summer heat.

Explanada del Gran Buda de Nokogiri (大仏広場)

Halfway up the mountain we find the jewel of the temple: the statue of the Great Buddha of Nokogiri or Nihon-ji Daibutsu (日本寺大仏).

It was originally carved out of the same rock it stood on in 1783 (third year of Tenmei) by Jingorō Eirei Ōno and his 27 students and measured 37 meters. At the end of the Edo Period (1603 – 1868), due to erosion by wind and rain, it collapsed. The sculpture that we see today dates from 1969 and measures 31 meters, 7 less than the original.

It rises from a semicircular base, in the shape of overlapping lotus buds, to a stone halo resembling a disk and with “little” Buddhas surrounding Yakushi Ruriko Nyorai.

The sculpture is spectacular and leaves you speechless. On the esplanade there is a kind of shaded picnic area where you can rest in the shade and have a cool drink from one of the vending machines that are here.

Middle Zone (中腹エリア)

After a well-deserved rest, we begin the descent again, passing through several temple buildings, such as the Yakushi Honden (薬師本殿医王殿), destroyed by the great fire of 1944 and rebuilt in 1997.

Yakushi Honden (薬師本殿（醫王殿)

Omotesando Area (表参道エリア)

Already in the lower part, we can find the Shinji-ike pond (心字池) and some more buildings such as the Kannondou (観音堂).

Nokogiri
Kannondou (観音堂)

Here the route of Mount Nokogiri ends, about two hours approximately. An excursion that will not leave you indifferent.

To return to Tokyo, the most practical thing is to take the train from the JR Hota station, which is about a 20-minute walk between crops from the entrance to the complex of the mount, to the JR Hama-Kanaya station and there return to take the boat towards Kurihama.

How to get to Mount Nokogiri

To get to Mount Nokogiri from central Tokyo, it is best to go to Shinagawa Station (品川駅).

From Shinagawa, if you have JRPass, it is best to take the JR Yokosuka Line via Kurihama, to JR Kurihama Station which takes 1 hour and 20 minutes. Without JRPass, the price is ¥940.

If you don’t have a JRPass, it’s best to take the private Keikyu Main Line, which a little further on, at Horinouchi station, becomes the Keikyu Kurihama line (you don’t have to get out of the car), also from Shinagawa to the station Keikyu-Kurihama. The journey takes 1 hour and 9 minutes and costs ¥800.

If we go with JR, from Kurihama station we have to walk to Keikyu-Kurihama station, which is just opposite. At the main entrance, we got on the number 7 or number 8 bus to the Tokyo Wan Ferry stop, next to the ferry terminal. The journey takes about 12 minutes and costs ¥200 (€1.55).

The company in charge of the ferries is Tokyo Wan Ferry and its website is: http://www.tokyowanferry.com/

Ticket prices are (2022):

One WayRound trip
Adults¥900¥1.600
Children*¥450¥800
*Children up to 12 years

The ferry ride takes about 40 minutes and we arrive at Kanaya Port in Chiba.

Mount Nokogiri can be reached via the Nokogiri Cable Car, about a 13-minute walk from the port or 10 from JR Hama-Kanaya Station.

Ticket prices are (2022):

One WayRound Trip
Adults¥500¥950
Children*¥250¥450
*Children up to 12 years

Hours are from 9:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. between November 16 and February 15 (winter) and from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. from February 16 to November 15.

It can also be reached by climbing the more than 2,600 steps from Nihon-ji Temple (a 20-minute walk from JR Hota).

For more information you can visit the official website http://www.mt-nokogiri.co.jp/

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Where to eat in Japan

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In this entry we will find the restaurants in which we have eaten in Japan. More or less recommended in case they guide future visitors.

Content:

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Tokyo

Rokurinsha (六厘舍)

A small (very small) ramen restaurant. It is located on Tokyo Ramen Street in the basement of Tokyo Central Station, just up some stairs. You will recognize it by the permanent tail. The estimated waiting time at that point in the queue is marked on the floor. Trust me it’s worth the wait.

As soon as you enter you have a machine in Japanese (luckily with photos) in which you mark what you want, put in the yen and it takes out a piece of paper that you hand over to a boy and he serves you. On the tables you have a jug of cold water that they change for you.

As a curiosity, if you want they give you a paper bib so you don’t get dirty.

Address: Japan, 〒100-0005 Tokyo, Chiyoda City, Marunouchi, 1 Chome−9−1 東京駅一番街 B1 東京ラーメンストリート内

Hours: every day from 7:30 a.m. to 7:30 p.m.

Website: http://www.rokurinsha.com/

Coco Curry House

It is a chain of Japanese curry restaurants found all over Japan. Here we can eat curry in the traditional Japanese style. It is cheap and rich.

Highly recommended. We ate in Tokyo, Nara and Osaka and they were all equally good.

Website: https://www.ichibanya.co.jp/english/

Karayama Shinbashi (からやま 新橋店)

This is a small restaurant that serves tori no karaage (から揚げ), Japanese fried chicken that is delicious. We discovered it in 2016 and on our 2018 trip we ate there again.

Next to the door you have your machine to make the choice and you give the piece of paper to the boy who attends. It is so small that it only has a bar. The chicken was delicious and very cheap and they put it on a menu with a miso soup, a bowl of rice and shredded cabbage.

Address: Japan, 〒105-0004 Tokyo, Minato City, Shinbashi, 2 Chome−16−1 ニュー新橋ビル 1F.

How to get there: It is located in the southern part of the square in front of Shinbashi station, leaving through the Hibiya exit.

Hours: Every day from 10.30 to 22.30.

Website: http://karayama.com/shinbashi/

Yoshinoya (吉野家)

It is a chain that specializes in gyūdon, a bowl of rice with braised meat cut into very thin strips. It is very cheap and very good, with dishes starting at ¥387 (€2.91).

It was founded nothing more and nothing less than in 1899 and they are all over Japan.

Website: https://www.yoshinoya.com/

Gusto Cafe (ガスト)

It is another chain that we find all over Japan. It is not the cheapest place to eat but it has a lot of variety, from Japanese food to pizzas.

The best thing about this chain is that, paying 200 yen (€1.55) you have an open bar of non-alcoholic drinks. For summer dehydration it is really good.

Website: https://www.skylark.co.jp/gusto/

Hidakaya Ramen (日高屋 新宿東口店)

It’s a small ramen restaurant mainly, although it also has something else like rice. Good and cheap in the heart of Shinjuku: 600 yen for the menu (€4.71).

Address: Japan, 〒160-0022 Tokyo, Shinjuku City, Shinjuku, 3 Chome−21−1 清水館ビル.

How to get there: 2-3 minutes walk north from the East exit of JR Shinjuku station, towards Kabukicho.

Hours: Monday to Saturday from 10:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. Sunday from 10:00 to 24:00.

Totobee

Permanently closed

A small sushi place near the old Tsukiji market. It is located in a basement and the sushi is delicious and, since it is not touristy, like most of the restaurants around the market, it is quite cheap. Menu only in Japanese but with photos and employees who only speak Japanese.

It is the most delicious sushi I have ever tasted.

Address: since it doesn’t appear on google maps, we can be guided because it is next to a Spanish restaurant called Brochetería Sol Sevilla located at 〒104-0045 Tokyo, Chuo City, Tsukiji, 2 Chome−14−3 天羽ビル.

How to get there: 100 m walk from the northwest of the entrance of Tsukiji Hongwan-ji temple.

Opening hours: I haven’t found the opening hours but I have to say that it closes on Sundays, since I was able to check it the last time I went.

Mos Burger

It is a chain of hamburger restaurants that are all over Japan, McDonald’s type. It is cheap and they are very good although they are a bit small for a Westerner to see.

Website: https://www.mos.jp/

Sukiya

Another chain that we found all over Japan. This time specializing in gyudon and grilled eel, although you can find many more things. The eel is very good and they have quite affordable menus.

Website: https://www.sukiya.jp/en/

Sushi-Ro

It is a sushi chain, the kind that passes the dishes around the tables through a belt. The one in Ueno was highly recommended to us. It is very good and well priced, although, in this place specifically, the wait for a table can go up to an hour. Worth.

Address: Japan, 〒110-0005 Tokyo, Taito City, Ueno, 6 Chome−9−9 オリエンタルビル B1.

How to get there: About a three-minute walk south of JR Ueno Station.

Hours: every day from 11:00 to 19:50.

Website: https://www.akindo-sushiro.co.jp/

Haneda Sushiko (羽田寿司幸)

Sushi restaurant located in Terminal 1 of Haneda Airport (before security checks). It’s very good and, for being in an airport, it’s not expensive.

Address: Japan, 〒144-0041 Tokyo, Ota City, Hanedakuko, 3 Chome−3−2 第1旅客ターミナル ガレリア 3F 羽田空港.

How to get there: it is located on the 3rd floor of terminal 1 of the airport.

Hours: every day from 11:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m.

Narita

Ton Ton Tei

Tiny tonkatsu restaurant in the city of Narita. A very nice place with spectacular meat and cheap, although somewhat difficult to reach.

Address: 411-1 Tsuchiya, Narita, Chiba 286-0021.

How to get there: We can get there by taking the bus that leads to Aeon Mall Narita that leaves from outside the JR Narita station. We got off next to the door of the shopping center and walked southeast for about 10 minutes. The price of the bus is 210¥ (€1.60).

We can also walk about 10 minutes from the Peace Pagoda of the Narita San Shinso-ji temple, leaving through the back door of the enclosure.

Hours: every day from 11:00 a.m. to 11:00 p.m.

Utsunomiya

Utsunomiya Gyoza Kan

It is a chain of gyoza restaurants, the Japanese dumplings, originally from Utsunomiya. It has many varieties. Very cheap and delicious.

Address: 3 Chome-3-3 Ekimae Dori, Utsunomiya, Tochigi 321-0964, Japan.

Hours: every day from 11:00 to 21:30.

Website: https://www.gyozakan.jp/

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Kamakura

Lotus Ramen (ラーメンとカレーの店 蓮)

Tiny mainly ramen restaurant, although they also have fried rice (delicious) and curry. It is run by a quite old lady who is very nice and pleasant.

It is one of the most delicious ramen I have ever tasted.

Address: 1 Chome-8-40 Yukinoshita, Kamakura, Kanagawa 248-0005, Japan.

Opening hours: every day from 11:00 to 21:00.

Website: https://kamakuraren.com/

Kyoto

Ramen Miyako (らぁ〜めん京 祇園本店)

Small ramen joint located between the Yasaka Shrine and the Chion-in Temple. It’s not the cheapest, but it’s the richest ramen I’ve ever tasted.

Normally you have to wait for a table because it is usually full. Worth.

Address: 303 Gionmachi Kitagawa, Higashiyama Ward, Kyoto, 605-0073, Japan.

How to get there: 2-minute walk north of the Nishiromon gate of Yasaka Shrine. Right in front of the Gion bus stop (祇園).

Opening hours: every day from 11:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m.

Website: http://ramen-miyako.com/about/index.html

Ajinotentoku Shijo Kiyamachi (味の天徳　四条木屋町店)

This tiny restaurant with an unpronounceable name is the place with the best noodles I’ve ever tried. It is found hidden in an alley in Pontocho. The place consists of 10 stools around a bar where a serious and meticulous young man attends.

Discovered by chance, among hundreds of restaurants full of tourists, in this one there were only locals eating. Delicious and cheap.

We choose our food from a machine by the door, insert the money and give the ticket that comes out to the boy.

Address: 455 Shincho, Shimogyo-ku, Kyoto-shi, Kyoto.

How to get there: Just a 2-minute walk north of exit 1-A at Kawaramachi Train Station on the Hankyu-Kyoto Line.

Opening hours: Every day from 12:00 to 15:00 and from 17:00 to 2:00.

Kyoto Tower Sando B1 Food Hall

Located on the ground floor of the Kyoto Tower are a series of small restaurants serving a variety of cuisine. They are reasonably priced and offer everything from fried chicken to wagyu burgers and delicious ramen.

Address: on the B1 floor of Kyoto Tower.

Opening hours: 11:00 to 23:00.

Website: https://www.kyoto-tower-sando.jp/shop/guide

Osaka

Ajinoya honten (味乃家 本店)

It is a place specialized in okonomiyaki, the Japanese pizza. I guess because of the situation, it’s not too cheap but it’s very good.

Address: 〒542-0076 Osaka, Chuo Ward, Nanba, 1 Chome−7−16 現代こいさんビル2F.

How to get there: 1 minute walk from exit 14 of Namba metro station.

Opening hours: Tuesday to Friday from 11:30 a.m. to 9:00 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays from 11:00 to 21:00. Closed on Monday.

Website: http://www.namba-ajinoya.com/

Yukari Tensan (ゆかり 天三店)

It is a place specialized in okonomiyaki. It is very Japanese and they make you take off your shoes before entering. It’s not very cheap but it’s delicious and they make the okonomiyaki right at your table.

The best okonomiyaki I’ve ever had.

Address: 3 Chome-1-12 Tenjinbashi, Kita Ward, Osaka, 530-0041.

How to get there: 3 minutes north of JR Ōsakatemmangū Station and Minami-morimachi Subway Station.

We can also walk 6 minutes from the Osaka Temmangu temple, to the north also by a shotengai.

Opening hours: every day from 11:00 a.m. to 11:00 p.m.

Kobegyu Wanomiya Dotonbori Honten

It is a tepanyaki restaurant specializing in Kobe beef located in Dotonbori. Of course it is expensive, but it is worth it to treat yourself from time to time.

The cook will give you advice on how to eat it, and it is spectacular even the vegetables.

Address: 1-5-2, Dotombori, Chuo, Osaka 542-0071.

How to get there: It is located on the main street of Dotonbori, where we find all the restaurants, about 100 meters east of the Glico sign.

Opening hours: Tuesday to Sunday, from 11:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. and from 5:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m. Closed on Monday.

Nagoya

Rich miso ramen Sakaeya (濃厚味噌らーめん さかえ屋)

It is a small ramen place. It wasn’t touristy at all, so everything was in Japanese and quite cheap and tasty.

Address: 4 Chome-15-14 Sakae, Naka Ward, Nagoya, Aichi 460-0008.

How to get there: 4-minute walk southeast from Sakae subway station.

Opening hours: Monday to Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. and from 6:00 p.m. to 8:00 p.m. Sundays from 11.30 to 20.00.

Website: https://sakaeya.owst.jp/

Sekai no Yamachan Ikeshita-ten (世界の山ちゃん 女子大店)

It is an izakaya type food chain that is all over Japan although it is originally from Nagoya. It is famous for its fried chicken wings.

It’s excessively expensive for a fry-up, but it’s tasty.

Address: 4 Chome-13-24 Sakae, Naka Ward, Nagoya, Aichi 460-0008.

How to get there: 3 minutes southeast of the Sakae subway station.

Opening hours: from 4:00 p.m. to 8:00 p.m.

Ichiran Nagoya Nishiki (一蘭 名古屋錦店)

Chain of ramen restaurants that are all over Japan and I even saw one on my trip to New York. The tonkotsu ramen is spectacular and has the peculiarity that it is eaten in a kind of booth, alone. The subject is very antisocial.

You sit down and mark the box on a piece of paper, the broth, the noodles, the toppings, etc… A blind rises in a small window in which there is someone whose only hands you can see, you give them the piece of paper, and in a minute you put your ramen on and close the window.

Address: Japan, 〒460-0003 Aichi, Nagoya, Naka Ward, Nishiki, 3 Chome−22−7, Ark, ２F.

How to get there: 3-minute walk west of Sakae Subway Station Exit #8.

Opening hours: every day from 11:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m.

Website: https://ichiran.com/shop/chubu/nagoya-nishiki/

Nigiri No Tokube @ Oasis 21 (にぎりの徳兵衛 オアシス２１店)

Conveyor belt sushi restaurant located in the Oasis 21 shopping mall in the Sakae district. It’s very good but it’s a bit expensive.

Address: 1 Chome-11-1 Higashisakura, Higashi Ward, Nagoya, Aichi 461-0005.

How to get there: It is located on the ground floor of the Oasis 21 shopping center in the Sakae district.

Opening hours: from 11:00 to 20:00.

Website: https://www.nigirinotokubei.com/

Kii-Katsuura

Mehari Sushi Nidaime (めはり寿司二代目)

A small restaurant specializing in tuna sushi, although with a few more things. It is run by a quite old and very serious man, who only speaks Japanese, but has a menu in English.

It must be said that the tuna was to cry. It is very cool as it disembarks at the dock that is just 100 meters away. And it is that Kii-Katsuura is the tuna mecca of Japan.

Address: Japan, 〒649-5335 Wakayama, Higashimuro District, Nachikatsuura, Tsukiji, 2 Chome−２−6.

How to get there: A two-minute walk north from JR Kii-Katsuura Station.

Opening hours: Every day from 11:00 to 21:00.

Here we leave a map with the locations of all the restaurants:

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Tokyo (東京)

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On this page you can find all the information about Tokyo, the capital of Japan, from its history to learning to move, going through what you can’t miss.

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Tokyo: Practical Guide

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Let’s learn everything we need to know before our trip to Tokyo.

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How to get to Tokyo

Aircraft

This will be the means of transportation in which almost all of us will arrive in Tokyo from our home countries.

Tokyo has two international airports, Tokyo International Airport (東京国際空港) known as Haneda Airport (羽田空港) and Narita Airport.

Haneda Airport

Haneda airport is located in the special region of Ōta, 15 kilometers south of Tokyo station, in the middle of Tokyo Bay.

As a curiosity, the 4th floor is decorated as if they were alleys from the Edo period. It is very, very cool and there is a very good and not too expensive sushi restaurant.

How to go from Haneda airport to Tokyo:

Train:

To go to Tokyo from Haneda, we can go by train with the private company Keikyu. This is the one that we have taken in the two routes that we have made. In approximately 15 minutes you get to Shinagawa station and the price is 300 yen (€2.40) and it does not enter the Japan Rail Pass.

Buy Japan Rail Pass

From Shinagawa we can take the Yamanote line to any of the other major stations in the city or the shinkansen to Kyoto.

Here we leave the link of the station map of the airport website.

Monorail:

We can also get there with the monorail. It is the fastest way and enters the JR Pass. But if you do not have the JR Pass activated, the price is 500 yen (€4). The monorail takes 19 minutes to reach Tokyo Station.

Here we leave you the official website of the monorail.

Bus:

We can also go by bus. The company that covers the route is Limousine Bus. The frequency to Tokyo station is between 40 and 50 minutes and the journey takes about 40 minutes. The price is 950 yen (€7.60). The advantage is that they have night services, when the trains no longer work, although the prices are much more expensive, although it will always be cheaper than a taxi.

They also cover the route between Haneda airport and Narita airport, in case you have a flight with a layover in which you have to change airports. The price is 3,200 yen (€25.65). The bus is direct, unlike the train, in which we would have to make transfers.

Buy your Limousine Bus ticket here:

Buy your Limousine Bus ticket here:

LIMOUSINE BUS

Taxi:

If you want to make the journey by taxi, like everyone else, it is the most expensive option. The journey has a flat rate depending on the destination and, if the trip is between 10:00 p.m. and 5:00 a.m., the price increases. For example, the price to the Chiyoda area, where Tokyo station is located, is 6,100 yen (€48.90) during the day, plus 1,100 yen (€8) if it is the night trip.

You can look at the updated prices on the airport’s official website.

Transfer service:

If you want comfort and speed, you can always hire a transfer service that will be waiting for you at the airport and will take you directly to your hotel.

Transfer in Tokyo

Other destinations:

If you want to go from Haneda airport to any other city such as Osaka or Kyoto, the ideal is to go to Shinagawa station with the Keikyu train and there take the shinkansen or, go with the monorail to Hamamatsuchō station and there take the Yamanote or Keihin-Tōhoku Line to Shinagawa or Tokyo Station.

Narita Airport

Narita Jasiko International Airport (成田国際空港) is located in Narita, Chiba Prefecture, about 60 km from central Tokyo.

How to go from Narita airport to Tokyo:

The star transport is the Narita Express or N’Ex. It is an express train that enters the JR Pass and leaves you at various stations in Tokyo.

The normal frequency is one train every half hour and if you do not have a JR Pass, the price is 4,070 yen (€32.60) with the N’EX TOKYO Round Trip Ticket regardless of the destination station, which is a return ticket that is much cheaper. The price of a single trip, for example, to Shinjuku is 3,250 yen (€26). The journey lasts 1 hour and a half.

The downside is that the last train leaves at 9:45 p.m.

Narita Express official website.

The other effective mode of transportation is the Skyliner (スカイライナー), a limited express train service between Tokyo and Narita Airport. It is operated by Keisei Electric Railway, so it does not fall under the JR Pass. It has stops at Nippori and Keisei Ueno stations.

The price of the Skyliner is 2,520 yen (€19.50), which takes advantage of the Narita express as it is cheaper if you pay with money.

Narita Airport Access Map

Transport in Tokyo

Train

An efficient way to get around Tokyo if you have the JR Pass is to use any of the trains on the JR line.

The Yamanote Line, colored green, is a circular line that stops at most major tourist sites. This line is, surely, the most popular line in Tokyo and is used by an average of 3.5 million passengers PER DAY!!!, ABOUT 1,300 million people per year.

Of course you will use it, and a lot.

Yamanote line

Metro

It is the most efficient way to get around Tokyo, following the JR Yamanote Line.

There are two metro companies, both private, so we cannot use them with the JR Pass. They are Tokyo Metro and Toei Subway and, although at first glance the map seems very complicated, it is very easy to use.

On the map you can see the station where you are and the price to pay next to the station where you get off. If you don’t see them clearly, don’t worry, buy the cheapest ticket and when you get off the train, enter the ticket in some machines that are in all the stations that are fare adjustment, where you pay the remaining amount to be able to leave.

Tokyo metro map

For example, we want to travel from Shibuya to Asakusa which is 250 yen. Since we are not sure, we buy the cheapest ticket, which is 170 yen. When we get off in Asakusa, we won’t be able to get out through the turnstile, so we go to the machine that says fare adjustment, insert the bill and it will tell us to insert 80 yen. Now we can go through the lathe.

The tickets are not valid for both companies, that is, if we buy a Tokyo Metro ticket, we cannot transfer to a Toei Subway line, but there are combined tickets.

There are several types of tickets, but the ones we will use the most are the combined tickets for the two companies for 24, 48 and 72 hours. These are the prices updated to August 2020.

PRICEADULTSCHILDREN
24 H800¥ (6.35€)400¥ (3.20€)
48 H1.200¥ (9.55€)600¥ (4.75€)
72 H1.500¥ (11.93€)750¥ (4.96€)

You will find more information on the official websites of both companies:

Bus

They are the alternative to the subway and JR trains, but they are much slower and the schedules are very reduced. The truth is that we have never been on a bus in Tokyo so I cannot share the experience.

The price of a single ticket (updated as of August 2020) is 210 yen (€1.67) for adults and 110 yen (€0.87) for children.

Toei Bus official website.

The bus is accessed through the back door and the ticket is paid when leaving through the front door. You have to enter the exact amount into the machine. If you don’t have enough change, next to the pay machine you have another one that gives change.

Taxi

Traveling by taxi in Tokyo is expensive, it is very, very, very expensive. A journey through the center of Tokyo can cost you around €10, which would cost us €1.30 on the subway.

Of course, Japanese taxis are very clean and the driver will never cheat you. To get into the taxi, it is the driver who opens the door for you, if he does not open it for you, he does not want you to get in (it happened to us in Kyoto).

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Tokyo. Short history

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Tokyo, the capital of Japan, home to more than 37 million inhabitants in its metropolitan area, almost the same as the total population of Spain.

Tokyo is founded in 1457 under the name of Edo (江戸), with the construction of Edo Castle, the work of Ōta Dōkan (太田道灌), a samurai vassal of the Uesugi clan.

Tokugawa Ieyasu (徳川 家康)

In the year 1590 the shōgun Tokugawa Ieyasu (徳川 家康) took the castle and in the year 1603 established his government here. With this fact, the Edo period (江戸時代) began, which would last until the year 1868.

At the end of this year, with the change of government at the beginning of the Meiji Era, the emperor moved to Edo Castle, turning it into the Imperial Palace and renaming the city with the name of Tokyo. In the year 1871 the fiefdoms were abolished and the prefectures were created, including Tokyo with its 23 special wards.

In the year 1872 the first railway line began to be built and in 1885 the Yamanote circular line (山手線) was inaugurated, which will be the most used on our trip through Tokyo.

In 1923 the great Kantō earthquake (関東大震災) occurs, leaving the city devastated and approximately 143,000 dead.

At the beginning of the year 1936, the Incident of February 26 (二・二六事件) occurs, an attempted coup carried out by about 1,400 young officers of the imperial army.

They assassinated several high officials, including some ministers, but were unable to assassinate then-Prime Minister Keisuke Okada (岡田 啓介) or take control of the imperial palace. Two days later they surrendered.

During World War II, Tokyo was heavily bombed and, after Japan’s surrender, the city was occupied by Allied forces. At present, the United States Army still maintains Yokota Air Base (横田空軍基地) and several barracks.

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Japan 2018: Continuing a dream

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On this page we are going to narrate in several entries the diary of our trip to Japan in 2018. Our second trip to the country of the rising sun. We continue to fall in love with this wonderful country, to which we will return sooner or later once again.

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