Today we travel to Kaunas, Lithuania’s second city but with a lot of charm.
August 3rd
At 13.50 we left by bus for Kaunas. Three hours later we would arrive at Kaunas station. The ticket cost us 42.30 Litas (12.25€).
Kaunas
Kaunas is located at the confluence of the Niemen and Neris rivers; it is the second most populous city in the country after Vilnius and was the capital during the first Republic of Lithuania between 1920 and 1939.
The city was founded in 1361 and became the most populous city of the Trakai Voivodeship during the Grand Duchy of Lithuania. In 1795 the Russians occupied the city and shortly afterwards it was attacked by Napoleon’s troops.
The 1918 declaration of independence made Kaunas the provisional capital of the Republic of Lithuania, as Vilnius was under Russian and later Polish control.
By the late 1930s it had become Lithuania’s most populous city, but during World War II it suffered first the Soviet invasion (1940-1941) and, after a brief civil uprising, the German occupation (1941-1944).
The Nazi army carried out a holocaust of the Jewish population with the establishment of the Kovno Ghetto, leaving more than 30,000 dead. The Soviets recaptured the city in 1944 to establish the Lithuanian Soviet Socialist Republic. At the end of the war the capital was moved to Vilnius, now under Lithuanian sovereignty.
From the bus station we walked to the flat, about 2km away. This time we chose a tourist rental, a rather elegant flat that cost 49€ per night.
Find the best hotels at the best price in Kaunas with Agoda:
As I had arrived a bit sick, we decided to rest a bit. We went out for dinner at a nearby supermarket and went to bed early.
August 4th
We get up early and head out onto the streets. After breakfast we go to Laisvės Alėja (Freedom Avenue), a well-known pedestrian boulevard with many shops and restaurants. We stroll until we reach Šv. Arkangelo Mykolo bažnyčia (Church of St. Michael the Archangel).
The church of St. Michael the Archangel is a Roman Catholic church built between 1891 and 1895 in Neo-Byzantine style when Kaunas was part of the Russian Empire. It was originally an Orthodox church serving Russian troops stationed in the city, although it was planned to be a Roman Catholic church before the January 1831 uprising.
The church was integrated into the Kaunas Fortress. As was customary for military churches at the time, the construction of Kaunas Cathedral was financed in equal parts by the Military Ministry and by donations from military men.
After the fall of the Kaunas Fortress during World War I, the Germans took the bells from the church and took them to Germany. The church remained closed until 1919.
In the inter-war period, the cathedral became a Roman Catholic church of the Lithuanian garrison in Kaunas. During the Soviet era it was used as an art gallery, and after its dissolution it resumed its Roman Catholic ecclesiastical activity.
From here we head to the Žaliakalnio funikulierius (Žaliakalnis funicular), the oldest funicular in Lithuania built in 1931. It runs a distance of 142 metres to the Basilica of the Resurrection of Christ. It quickly became a very popular means of transport, carrying some 5 million passengers between 1950 and 1970.
We take the funicular, which costs 1 Lita per person (€0.30), up to Kauno Kristaus prisikėlimo bažnyčia (Basilica of the Resurrection of Christ), a monumental Roman Catholic church consecrated in 2004.
After Lithuania regained its independence in 1918, the idea of building a church as a national shrine and a symbol of gratitude to God for the freedom regained in the city of Kaunas, then the temporary capital of Lithuania, began to gain ground.
In 1922, the city of Kaunas gave the land for the construction and the design of the engineer Karolis Reisonas was chosen in a competition, and in 1933 the building permits were granted.
The cornerstone of the church, brought from the Mount of Olives in Jerusalem, was solemnly blessed and laid in the foundations in 1934. Construction proceeded apace until the Soviet Union occupied the country, when the building was confiscated and converted into a radio factory. The building was then remodelled, with three storeys in the side aisles and five in the central nave. The crosses were removed and the chapel demolished.
In 1990, the Lithuanian Soviet Socialist Republic forced the reconstructed building to be returned to its original form, but it was returned in a deplorable and dilapidated state.
Reconstruction then began, with some changes to the original plans. But the work was hampered by a lack of funds. It was not until 1997 that the work was accelerated thanks to contributions from the Lithuanian government.
The church was consecrated in 2004 and the work was finally completed in 2005.
The building is really curious although it doesn’t look like a church. We paid 8 Litas (2.30€) each to enter. The interior is very simple and sober and you can go up to the terrace to see the spectacular views from the place.
We walked down instead of taking the funicular and went to the building of the Vytauto Didžiojo Karo Muziejus (Vytautas the Great War Museum).
In the same building we found the Nacionalinis M. K. Čiurlionio dailės muziejus (National Museum of Art). Apart from the museums, on the square in front of the museum is the Freedom Monument, which was erected in 1928 but destroyed during Stalin’s regime. It was reinstalled in 1989.
There is also the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and Kauno kariljonas (Kaunas Carillon), with its 49 bells ringing since 1956, and concerts are held every Saturday and Sunday at 16:00.
Close by is the Devil’s Museum (Velnių muziejus). A famous Lithuanian painter, public figure and professor Antanas Žmuidzinavičius (1876 – 1966) started to assemble this collection.
The museum contains a collection of more than 3,000 devils: creations of fine and applied arts, souvenirs and masks not only from Lithuania but from about 70 countries.
It was time for lunch. We decided to have lunch at a place on the way to the old town called Hesburger, a Finnish hamburger chain that is all over Lithuania. The burgers were quite good and it was quite cheap.
After lunch we went to the bank of the Niemen river. There we came across Nemuno Sala (Nemuno Island), an island about 1.5 km long that was undeveloped until 1917, when the German army built a harbour.
In the inter-war period it served as a winter harbour and recreational facilities were built. The harbour was in operation until 1970. Today it is a beautiful recreational park in which the ‘Algirio Arena, the largest sports hall in the Baltic States, is located. It opened on 18 August 2011 with a match between the Lithuanian and Spanish basketball teams.
As a basketball lover, I had to visit it as it was here that Spain won Eurobasket 2011.
We leave the island and head to the old town of Kaunas. We stroll along Vilniaus gatvė (Vilnius Street), the oldest street in the city, which is part of the old medieval road to Vilnius. Here we find numerous historic buildings, built by the wealthy class of the city.
On this street you will find many shops and terraces where you can have a good Lithuanian beer… which we did.
One of the most notable buildings on the street is the Cathedral Basilica of St. Peter and Paul (Kauno Šv. apaštalų Petro ir Povilo arkikatedra bazilika), a Roman Catholic cathedral basilica dedicated to the apostles St. Peter and St. Paul.
The exact date when the first Gothic-style church was built is unknown, but it is first mentioned in written sources in 1413. The construction work was not completed until 1624.
The church was badly damaged in 1655 during the Russo-Polish War but was rebuilt in 1671 with the addition of some Renaissance features. During a raging fire on the roof in 1732, both towers were destroyed and only one was rebuilt.
The present appearance of the building is the result of a new renovation in 1800. The church was promoted to cathedral status by Pope Leo XIII in 1895 and received the title of Basilica in 1926, when Pope Pius XI reorganised the Diocese of Samogitia into the Metropolitan Archdiocese of Kaunas.
Motiejus Valančius, the Bishop of Samogitia, who was also a historian and one of the best-known Lithuanian writers of the 19th century, was buried in a crypt of the church in 1875.
On the side façade facing Vilniaus gatvė is the mausoleum of Jonas Mačiulis – Maironis, a Lithuanian poet, professor and theologian, considered one of the leading figures of Lithuanian literature in the late 19th century.
A little further on from the church we come to Kauno Rotušės aikštė, the town hall square. Here we find (logically) the town hall (Kauno rotušė).
The construction of the town hall began in 1542 as a single-storey building with an unpainted façade and vaulted cellars. In the 16th century, the first floor and the eight-storey tower to the east of the building were built.
By 1638 it was built in the Renaissance style, and between 1771 and 1775 a second restoration was carried out by the architect J. Matekeris.
In the following centuries, it was used for various functions, such as an orthodox church, a munitions depot and the residence of the tsars.
Between 1869 and 1944 it was used as a theatre. After the Second World War it became the municipal archive.
The building was restored between 1968 and 1973 under a project by the architect Žibarts Simanavičius and became the town hall. Today its functions are mainly weddings, but it is also the place where the authorities are received and official ceremonies are held.
On the town hall square is also the Church of St. Francis Xavier (Kauno šv. Pranciškaus Ksavero (Jėzuitų) bažnyčia).
It was built by the Jesuits in 1666 and consecrated in 1722. On the same site, they previously built their first residence in Kaunas in 1642 and established a chapel in the House of Perkūnas in 1643.
By 1824 the tsar handed the church over to the Orthodox Church, but a century later it reverted to the Jesuits. During the Soviet occupation, it was converted into a technical school and sports centre. After independence in 1989, it was once again in Jesuit hands.
After a short evening stroll around the area, we looked for a place to have dinner and went to rest. Last day in Kaunas tomorrow.
August 5th
We get up at a reasonable hour, have breakfast and go to the street.
We return to Vilniaus gatvė, a street you will walk along many times. After a coffee, we head to Kaunas Castle (Kauno pilis).
Located on the bank of the Nemunas River near the confluence of the Neris River in the Confluence Park. It is believed to have been built in the mid-14th century in Gothic style.
By 1362, the castle was besieged by the Teutonic Order. At that time, the castle walls were more than 11 metres high. Inside was a garrison of about 400 Lithuanian soldiers commanded by Vaidotas, son of Duke Kęstutis.
After three weeks, the Knights managed to breach the castle walls and shortly afterwards the castle was taken. Of the 400 soldiers defending the castle, 36 survived. On Easter Sunday 1362, the knights celebrated a mass in the castle to commemorate their victory.
In 1384, the Lithuanian army besieged the castle and took it back. After the Battle of Grunwald, Kaunas Castle lost its strategic military importance and was used as a residence.
During the 16th century, the castle was strengthened and adapted to new defensive purposes by building an artillery bastion near the round tower.
The castle was used as a prison in the 18th century; later, the Russian administration granted permission for the construction of houses on the castle’s territory, which resulted in significant damage to the castle itself.
After that, the castle was abandoned for decades until 1960. A museum was opened in the round tower, but was soon moved due to the poor condition of the tower.
The castle is restored between 2010 and 2011. A branch of the Kaunas Museum is established there. On 14 July 2018 a new sculpture “Freedom Warrior” (representing Vytis) was erected near the castle.
Opposite the castle is the Church of St. George the Martyr (Kauno Šv. Jurgio Kankinio (pranciškonų) bažnyčia). It is a church built in Gothic style between 1492 and 1502.
The church was badly damaged during the Napoleonic Wars. During the Soviet occupation the church was converted into a medicine warehouse.
We turn back towards the centre. After a nice walk and a well-deserved and delicious Lithuanian beer, we enter St. Peter and Paul’s Cathedral. We had not had time the day before.
We continue strolling through the beautiful historic centre of the city. We reach Perkūno namas (House of Perkūnas). This is one of the most beautiful Gothic buildings in the city. It was built in the 15th century by Hanseatic merchants and its purpose is not really known.
There is a legend about a sculpture of the deity Perkūnas found on a wall of the building, about priestesses guarding the eternal fire; however, the extensive collection of artefacts found by researchers suggests that it was a commercial office belonging to Hanseatic merchants.
Perkūnas is one of the most important deities in the Baltic pantheon. In Lithuanian and Latvian mythology he is the god of thunder, rain, mountains, oaks and the sky.
Today, the House of Perkūnas belongs to the Kaunas Jesuit order. The Perkūnas House houses an exhibition on the life and works of Adomas Mickevičius, an art exhibition and a concert hall.
It can be visited for a fee of €3.
A little further down is the Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary – Vytautas the Great (Vytauto Didžiojo bažnyčia). It is the oldest early Gothic monument in Kaunas. The exact date of its construction is unknown.
According to the Jesuit historian Albert Vijūkas Kojelavičius, Vytautas the Great built this church in 1400. Soon after, the Vilnius Franciscan monks began to guard it.
The first record of the church dates back to documents from 1439 and refers to a small wooden church. Shortly afterwards it was replaced by the present brick church. The tower was built between the end of the 15th and the beginning of the 16th century.
The church was spared three major fires in the city (1603, 1624 and 1668). But it was devastated during the Russian invasion in 1655. It was restored in 1669.
In 1812, after the French invasion, it became an arms depot and, after their departure, the building was set on fire. It was restored again in 1819.
During the First World War, the German army used it for storage. After their departure, the building was again badly damaged.
In 1919 it was returned to the Catholic Church and restored again. On 15 August 1920 the church was consecrated by the prelate Aleksandras Jakštas-Dambrauskas.
The church is located on the banks of the river Niemen, so we walk to the Confluence Park (Santakos parkas).
The Confluence Park (Santakos parkas) is a large 12-hectare park at the confluence of the Nemunas and Neris rivers. Here you will find Kaunas Castle, sports facilities and even a monument to Pope John Paul II.
It’s a perfect place to take a stroll at sunset and sit on the grass and relax for a while. And even go fishing.
After a well-deserved rest we went on our way to a nearby shopping centre called Akropolis. There we found a place called Čili Pica where we had a quiet dinner.
After dinner we went to sleep, as we had to get up early. We took the bus back to Vilnius.
Find the best activities and tours in Kaunas with Civitatis:
Back to Vilnius
August 6th
Last day in Lithuania. We took an early bus to Vilnius.
As soon as we arrived in the city we went straight to the hotel, which was opposite the Vilnius Cathedral. This time we chose the Amberton Hotel. A 4 star hotel that cost us 61€ a night with breakfast, which we booked as a picnic as we were leaving the hotel at 3am.
Find the best hotel at the best price in Vilnius with Agoda.
The truth is that the hotel, for a 4-star hotel, was pretty dingy, although it had a good view.
We left our things and went to do the last Lithuanian sightseeing. A stroll along Pillies Street, where there was a craft market. There we bought some souvenirs.
Then we go on our way to see a sculpture of the musician Frank Zappa… unique in the world…
And from here we go down to Gedimino Avenue, the main avenue of the city. A large shopping street closely related to the world of theatre and with numerous government buildings.
Here we had some hamburgers for lunch from a fast food chain…
The Lithuanian National Theatre of Dramatic Art (Lietuvos nacionalinis dramos teatras) is located on this street.
The theatre opened on 6 October 1940 with a performance of the play “Hope” by the Dutch playwright Herman Heijermans. At that time it was located in Basanavicius Street. The theatre moved to its current location in 1951.
The sculpture Celebration of the Muses (Mūzų šventė) by sculptor Stanislovas Kuzma, which crowns the main entrance of the theatre, has become the symbol of the National Drama Theatre of Lithuania. These figures represent the muses of Drama (Calliope), Comedy (Thalia) and Tragedy (Melpomene).
This street is also home to the Mažasis Theatre (Mažasis teatras) and the Lithuanian Academy of Music and Theatre (Lietuvos muzikos ir teatro akademija).
This avenue is a beautiful promenade lined with stately buildings.
Paseando paseando llegamos de nuevo a la calle Pillies. Allí tomamos nuestra última cena en el primer local que descubrimos de Čili Pica y temprano a la cama para madrugar.
Madrugón exagerado. Bajamos a recepción a recoger el desayuno y hacer el check out. Aquí nos pasó algo que nunca habíamos vivido. Entregamos las llaves y el recepcionista nos pasa la cuenta: 210 Lt. El hotel lo teníamos pagado mediante la web en la que lo contratamos. Se lo hacemos saber y nos pide una prueba del pago. Por suerte ya tenía mi primer smartphone y pude enseñarle el correo con el recibo del hotel y del banco.
No se si nos quería estafar o era un novato, pero nos dejó marchar pero teníamos que mandarle los recibos al correo del hotel… nunca lo hicimos.
En la puerta nos pesperaba nuestro transfer al aeropuerto, ya que a esas horas no había transporte público.
Here you can hire a great transfer service with Civitatis:
Balance of the trip
What can I say about Lithuania… A country that pleasantly surprised me. Its spectacular landscapes, its gastronomy, its culture and its kind and friendly people.
I am aware that 10 days is very little time and that we missed a lot to see. I am sure I will come back.