Historically known as Seorabeol (서라벌), it is the second largest city in the province with a population of around 270,000.
Gyeongju was the capital of the ancient kingdom of Silla (57 BC-935 AD), which ruled over two-thirds of the Korean peninsula for almost a thousand years, between the 7th and 9th centuries.
The city preserves a large number of archaeological sites and cultural assets from this period. For this reason, it is known as the ‘museum without walls’.
In particular, the city of Gyeongju was our favourite visit in all of South Korea, and I think we didn’t spend enough time there.
How to get there: The easiest way to get there is by KTX train. Gyeongju Station (Singyeongju until 2023) is about a 40-minute bus ride from the city centre.
You can take buses 50, 51, 60, 70, and 700. The fare is ₩1,650 and can be paid with T-Money.
Getting around: The best way to get around the city is on foot. However, to reach more distant places such as Bulguksa Temple or Seokguram Grotto, it is best to take the bus.
What to see in Gyeongju
First of all, I should mention that at all tourist attractions you will find stamps to stamp a tourist passport that you will find next to them. It’s a silly thing, but I love these details.
01. Bulguksa Temple (불국사)
It is one of the must-see sights in Gyeongju, and I would say in all of South Korea.
Bulguksa was built in 528, a year after the Silla dynasty officially accepted Buddhism during the reign of King Beopheung. It was commissioned by the king to fulfil the wishes of his mother, Lady Yeongje, and his wife, Queen Gi Yun.
The temple was almost completely destroyed during the Japanese invasion in the 16th century but was rebuilt between 1612 and 1700.
From 1963 to 1973, Mooseoljeon, Gwaneumjeon, Birojeon, and the walkways and corridors were rebuilt, and Daeungjeon, Beomyeongru, Jahamun, and the stone platforms were restored to their current appearance.
In 1995, Bulguksa was designated a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site along with Seokguram.
Daeungjeon
Find more photos and more complete information in our travel diary entry on Korea.
How to get there: Take bus 700 from the city centre. The journey takes about 30 minutes and costs ₩1,650. You can pay with T-Money. Opening hours: Every day from 9:00 to 17:00. Price: Free.
02. Visit the most beautiful Buddha in the country at Seokguram Grotto (석굴암)
It is a perfect visit to combine with Bulguksa Temple, as the bus to get there departs from here.
Its original name was Seokbulsa Temple (Stone Buddha Temple). It was built between 772 and 774 by order of Prime Minister Kim Daeseong, who died before its completion. The reason for its construction was to appease Kim’s parents from his previous life.
Inside the grotto is a 3.5-metre-high stone statue of Seokgamoni-bul (the historical Buddha), said to be the most beautiful in Korea.
The statue, with a serene smile, faces the East Sea. It is backed by a statue of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion). It is also surrounded on all sides by the Nahan (The historical disciples of Buddha), Buddhas and Bodhisattvas.
Entrance to the cave
After walking along a short, pleasant path through the woods for about five minutes, we reached the entrance to the cave.
The interior is impressive, but photography is strictly prohibited. Not even surreptitiously, as there are security guards everywhere and thousands of cameras inside. So all I have left is the image in my head.
How to get there: take bus 12 from the Bulguksa Temple stop. The journey takes about 10 minutes and costs ₩1,200. You can pay with T-Money.
Price: free.
Timetable for bus no. 12
03. Anapji Pond (안압지)
This is a large pond that was located within the former Donggung Palace complex and Wolji Pond.
Donggung Palace (Crown Prince’s Palace) was one of the main palaces of the Silla Kingdom.
Samguk sagi (History of the Three Kingdoms) states: ‘In the 14th year of King Munmu’s reign (674), a large pond was excavated, flowers were planted, and rare birds and strange animals were raised.’
Wolji was abandoned during the Joseon period. It became known as Anapji because wild geese and ducks used to gather there (Anapi means “wild duck and goose pond”). It was discovered during excavation and dredging work carried out in 1975.
How to get there: combining your visit from Bulguksa Temple, take bus 700. Opening hours: every day from 9am to 10pm. Price: 3,000₩.
04. Cross the magnificent Woljeong Bridge (경주 월정교)
Woljeong Bridge was built during the Unified Silla period (676-935 AD), but was burned down during the Joseon Dynasty.
It was rebuilt in April 2018 to become the largest wooden bridge in South Korea. If you climb the steep stairs inside, you will find yourself in a small exhibition about the original city.
Opening hours: every day from 9am to 10pm. Price: free.
05. Stroll through the traditional village of Gyeongju Gyochon (경주교촌마을)
The traditional village of Gyeochon is a village of traditional hanok houses that allows visitors to see the life of the famous Choi clan. Visitors can see their house and try Gyeongju’s Beopgju Gyodong liquor.
It is beautiful but completely adapted to tourism. Still, it is worth taking a stroll through it.
06. Gyeongju Eupseong Fortress (경주읍성)
In the centre of the city, we can find the remains of the ancient fortress of the Goryeo and Joseon dynasties.
The date of construction of the original castle is unknown, but its reconstruction in the fourth year of King Woo of Goryeo (1378) is recorded in the Tongyeong Tongji.
After being burned down during the Imjin War (1592), it was rebuilt again in the tenth year of the Joseon Dynasty (1632).
With the urban expansion of Gyeongju, most of the castle was demolished, and today only about 50 metres of the eastern wall remain.
07. Daereungwon Tomb Complex (대릉원)
This is a historic park that houses 23 ancient tombs, both large and small. Each mound in the park is a tomb.
Within the Daereungwon tomb complex is the Cheonmachong tomb, which was excavated in 1973. In addition, the Hwangnamdaechong tomb was excavated between 1973 and 1975 and is a set of twin tombs belonging to a presumed married couple.
Opening hours: every day from 11am to 9pm. Price: free.
08. Crossing the Moon Bridge (月精橋)
It is a stone bridge for crossing the river. From this bridge, we have a breathtaking view of Woljeong Bridge.
09. Cheomsongdae Observatory (첨성대)
This stone structure is believed to have been built during the reign of Queen Seondeok (632–647).
Its name, Cheomseongdae, means ‘Platform for Viewing the Stars’, and it is widely recognised as the oldest astronomical observatory in Asia.
10. Stroll leisurely along the Welseong moat
This artificial moat protected the north side of the palace, while the Namcheon Stream served as a natural moat along the south side of the palace.
Its name means ‘Moon Fortress’ and it was built in 101 by King Pasa. It was discovered in 1984 through archaeological excavations.
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Built in 1794, Paldalmun is the southern gate of Hwaseong Fortress in Suwon. The area around Paldalmun Gate was a road leading to the Samnam region. Therefore, people frequented it even before the construction of Hwaseong Fortress.
The current building is the original, which was restored in 2013.
How to get there: Paldalmun Gate (팔달문) stop, bus 11 or 13.
02. “Climbing” Mount Paldalsan
Paldalsan is a mountain located in the centre of Suwon. In 1974, it was designated as a park. The park surrounds the wall of Hwaseong Fortress.
In addition to the wall and some defensive buildings, there are several trails to explore while admiring the impressive views of the city.
It should be noted that the climb can be quite challenging, with a combination of slopes and steep stairs.
03. Ring the Hyowon Bell
At the top of Mount Paldalsan, we find the Hyowon Bell. It was created to honour King Jeongjo’s filial devotion to his father, Crown Prince Sado.
The bell must be rung three times. The first ring is in gratitude for the love of parents. The second is to hope for happiness in the family. And the third is as a prayer for self-improvement.
04. Admire the views from Seojangdae
It is the crown jewel of Paldalsan. It is the Western Command Post and was the general command centre of Hwaseong Fortress.
In 1795, when King Jeongjo visited the fortress, he took command of military training from this post.
From here, we can enjoy wonderful views of the city of Suwon. It’s quite a climb, but frankly, it’s worth it.
05. Paldalsan Daeseungwon Temple
This small temple belonging to the Mahayana Monastery was founded in 1954 under the name ‘Mahasa’.
This temple does not belong to any particular sect. It is a place of research and education on Buddhist thought. Its 19-metre-high golden Buddha statue is visible from many points in the city.
The site is a true haven of peace and tranquillity.
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06. Yeomingag Bell
This bell was installed in front of Huwaseong Palace in 1796 by order of King Jeongjo. It was lost during the Japanese invasion and was restored in 2008.
On the night of 31 December, the New Year’s Eve chimes are rung here.
07. Hwaseong Haenggung Palace, a must-see from Seoul
It is the crown jewel of the city of Suwon and a must-see on any trip to Seoul.
It was built in 1789, the 13th year of the reign of King Jeongjo of the Joseon Dynasty.
Its original function was as a government office. It was also used as a temporary palace where the king stayed when he travelled to Suwon.
King Jeongjo elevated Suwon’s status by promoting it to Hwaseong Yusubu, and built a new one in 1795 to celebrate the 60th birthday of his mother, Lady Hyegyeonggung Hong. It was completed in 1796 with a total of 600 rooms.
How to get there: Paldalmun Gate (팔달문) stop, bus 11 or 13. Price: 3,000₩ (€2).
08. Hwaseomun Gate
Hwaseomun is the western gate of Hwaseong Fortress, which is the meaning of its name. Although the gate is actually located to the north-west of the fortress. It is one of the four gates of Hwaseong Fortress and was built in 1796.
Together with the adjacent Northwest Watchtower, it is considered one of the most iconic scenes of Hwaseong Fortress.
09. Motgol Market
Motgol Market is located in the old town centre. It is mainly dedicated to food, but it also has an important cultural component.
Not only can you buy food, but numerous cultural events are also held on its stage and in its training centre.
10. Get sick of eating fried chicken
Very close to Hwaseong Haenggung Palace, we found a small, simple restaurant serving Suwon-style fried chicken. Its name is 매향통닭, Maehyang Whole Chicken.
We ordered a serving of chicken for one person and two soft drinks. When the chicken arrived, IT WAS A WHOLE CHICKEN! We wondered if they had brought us two servings until the bill arrived. No, it was just one serving.
It was really delicious and it only cost us 19,000₩… €13… FOR BOTH OF US! Ridiculously cheap. We thought it was really funny that they give you plastic gloves to eat with so you don’t get your hands dirty.
Well, these are the most noteworthy places to visit in the city of Suwon. One day is more than enough, and for us, it’s a must-see when visiting from Seoul.
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Suwon is located 30 kilometres south of Seoul and is the capital of Gyeonggi Province. With a population of just over 1 million, it is known as “the city of filial piety”.
It was formerly known as Mosu-guk (모수국). Later, it was called Maehol-gun (매홀군) together with nearby Hwaseong.
It was actually renamed several times over the centuries until, in 1413, the third king of the Joseon Dynasty, Taejong, changed its name to Suwon.
How to get there: The best way to get there is to take Seoul Subway Line 1. After approximately 1 hour and 15 minutes, we arrived at Suwon Station. Yes, the Seoul Subway goes to Suwon.
Getting around: The most practical way to get around Suwon is by bus. From outside the train/subway station, you can take lines 11 or 13, which will take you to the main tourist attractions.
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Where to Eat
We did it at a typical Suwon fried chicken restaurant called Maehyang Whole Chicken.
We ordered one serving of chicken for one person and two soft drinks. When the chicken arrived, IT WAS A WHOLE CHICKEN! We wondered if they had given us two servings until the bill arrived. No, it was just one serving. How outrageous!
It was really tasty, and it cost us 19,000₩… €13… FOR BOTH OF US! Ridiculously cheap. We found it really funny that they give you plastic gloves to eat with so you don’t get your hands dirty. But I like to lick my fingers…
In this post, you will discover the most recommended tourist attractions in Busan and the surrounding area.
At the end, you will find a map with all the places marked.
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01. Haedong Yonggungsa Temple (해동용궁사)
Haedong Yonggungsa Temple is a Buddhist temple located in Gijang-gun. Its motto is ‘At least one of your wishes will be granted through your sincere prayers.’
Legend has it that it was founded by the great monk Naong (1320–1376), who was King Gongmin’s advisor. While practising asceticism at Bunhwang Temple in Gyeongju, the nation was hit hard by a drought that killed crops and caused famine among the people.
The great monk Naong
One day, a sea god appeared in Naong’s dream and said that if they built a temple on the edge of Bongrae Mountain and prayed there, all these hardships would disappear.
After that dream, Naong visited the area where Haedong Yonggung Temple now stands and saw that there was a mountain in front and the sea behind, which means that if they pray in the morning, they receive an answer in the afternoon.
There he built a temple called Bomun and named the mountain Bongrae. The word “Bongrae” means something mysterious and pure to which hermits with great understanding descend. The word “Bomun” means the absolute and unlimited power of the Great Goddess Buddha of mercy, called Gwanseumbosal in Korean.
It was destroyed during the Japanese invasion and rebuilt by the monk Ungang, from Tongdo Temple, in the 1930s.
It is one of the few temples in South Korea located by the sea and is very popular with tourists. It is truly wonderful to visit this haven of peace.
How to get there: Bus lines 100, 139, 181, 1001. Opening hours: 4.30pm to 7pm. Price: free.
ESSENTIAL VISIT
02. Jagalchi market (자갈치시장)
Jagalchi is the largest fish market in South Korea. Here you can find many stalls selling fresh fish, some of which are truly rare.
You can buy fish at the stalls and have it cooked right there so you can eat it on the go.
Most of the stalls are run by women known as Jagalchi Ajumma. ‘Ajumma’ means married or middle-aged woman in Korean.
How to get there: Jagalchi Station on Line 1 // Bus stop Jagalchi Station, BIFF Square on lines 8, 9, 11, 26, 70, 87, 103, 134, 171, 1000, 1003 and 1004. Opening hours: every day from 5 a.m. to 9 p.m. Price: free.
ESSENTIAL VISIT
03. BIFF square
Busan is South Korea’s film mecca. Since 1996, the Busan International Film Festival (BIFF) has been held here. This is one of the most important film festivals in Asia.
One of the events held during the festival is the printing of the hands of famous film celebrities. Here we can find the handprints of many personalities from the world of cinema, including some Spaniards.
Since it began, the area has become filled with shops, cinemas and food stalls.
Hand of Spanish director Carlos Saura
How to get there: Jagalchi Station on Line 1 // Bus stop Jagalchi Station, BIFF Square on lines 8, 9, 11, 26, 70, 87, 103, 134, 171, 1000, 1003 and 1004.
ESSENTIAL VISIT
04. Busan Tower – Diamond Tower (다이아몬드타워)
The tower was built in Yongdusan Park between 1972 and 1973. It was known as Busan Tower from its inauguration until 2021, when it was renovated and renamed Diamond Tower (다이아몬드 타워).
At 120 metres high, it offers spectacular views of Busan.
How to get there: Bus stop Jungang-dong Community Service Centre (중앙동주민센터) line 508. Opening hours: every day from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.
05. Beomeosa Temple (범어사)
Beomeosa Temple is a temple located on Geumjeongsan Mountain and is the headquarters of the 14th Diocese of the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism.
It was founded by Master Uisang in the 18th year of King Munmu of Silla (678) as one of the Hwaeomsipchal temples in Haedong. Beomeosa Temple was established to realise the ideal world of the Avatamsaka Sutra on earth, a clean, pure and beautiful life filled with mutual help, understanding and happiness.
It is located on the outskirts of the city, nestled in a truly beautiful wooded setting, and it is a delight to walk around it.
Take a tour of the temple with us and find more information and photos of the temple in our travel diary.
How to get there: Take metro line 1 to Beomeosa Station. Exit through Exit 5 and take the diagonal street behind you. After a couple of minutes, you will see the well-marked bus stop for the temple. From there, take bus no. 90, which goes directly to the temple. T-Money is valid.
Opening hours: every day from 8am to 5.30pm. Price: free.
ESSENTIAL VISIT
06. Seokbulsa Temple (대한불교조계종 석불사)
It is a modern temple. It was founded by the monk Jo Il-hyeon in 1930 during the Japanese colonial period, when he was the head priest.
It is a small temple, but what is truly spectacular are the impressive sculptures of 16 Arhats and 29 Buddha statues carved into the rock wall.
The path is quite winding with a fairly steep slope in the last 500 metres. But I have to say it’s totally worth it. Anyway, I climbed it and I’m not exactly in the best shape. That said, you do need to wear comfortable shoes.
Find more information and photos about Seokbulsa Temple in our travel diary.
How to get there: Take metro line 3 to Mandeog station. Exit through exit 2 and turn onto Gumandeok-ro street. After about 10 minutes, you will reach a fork in the road, which is a slope called Mandeokgogae-gil. It is just past a small pedestrian bridge that crosses the road above your head.
The total distance from the station is about 2 km.
Detour to Seokbulsa
Hours: 7:00 to 16:30. Price: free.
ESSENTIAL VISIT
07. Haeundae Traditional Market (해운대 전통시장)
The market stretches along several streets. Here you will find a multitude of food stalls, especially selling unusual fish. It is the perfect place to eat fresh fish that has just arrived at the port of Busan, the most important in South Korea.
How to get there: It is located very close to Haeundae Beach. Haeundae subway station, line 2.
Opening hours: Every day from 9:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m.
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08. Haeundae Beach (해운대해수욕장)
Haeundae is considered the best beach in Busan and is extremely popular in summer. It is a 1.5 km long beach with golden sand that attracts over 10 million tourists a year.
Numerous cultural events are held here, such as concerts, sand sculpture festivals, and much more.
How to get there: It is located very close to Haeundae Beach. Haeundae subway station, line 2.
09. Gunam-ro Street
This is the street that leads to Haeundae Beach. It is full of places to eat and shops. We also found it very interesting that there were many tarot card readers. Any time is a good time to have your fortune told…
How to get there: It is located very close to Haeundae Beach. Haeundae subway station, line 2.
10. Oryukdo Skywalk (오륙도 스카이워크)
Opened in 2012, this is a glass walkway from which you can see the Oryukdo Islands. These islands form an archipelago of five small rocky islands and are considered some of the most beautiful in South Korea.
Access to the skywalk is free, and you are given a shoe cover. Next to it is an information office, a convenience store, and a café where you can enjoy a drink while taking in the beautiful scenery.
Oryukdo Islands
How to get there: Buses 24, 27, and 131. Oryukdo Skywalk Bus Stop. Opening hours: Every day from 9:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. Price: Free.
Tongdosa (Salvation of the world through mastery of truth) is a main temple of the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism and is located on the southern part of Mount Chiseosan.
It is not actually located in Busan, but in the city of Yangsan, north of Busan.
Together with Haeinsa Temple and Songgwangsa Temple, it forms the Three Jewels and represents Gautama Buddha. Tongdosa is famous because there are no outdoor statues of Buddha in the temple, as Tongdosa preserves the ‘true shrines of Buddha’.
Tongdosa was founded in 646 by the monk Jajang-yulsa after returning from China. The temple prospered during the Later Silla and Goryeo periods (918-1392), when Buddhism was the state religion. During the Joseon Era, it managed to maintain its importance.
It is said that at its peak in the 15th century, it had hundreds of buildings and thousands of monks. Only the Mahavira Hall (the main Dharma worship hall) survived the Japanese invasion of the 16th century.
Interestingly, Beopdeung, the temple’s candle, has never been extinguished in over 1,300 years.
On Sundays, the temple monks provide free vegan meals.
How to get there: Take metro line 1 to the final stop, Nopo Dong. From there, cross over to Busan Central Bus Terminal and take the bus to Tongdosa Sinpyeong Terminal.
Busan Central Bus Terminal
The ticket price is 1,950₩ (€1.37) and it takes about 40 minutes to reach Tongdosa Station. You can pay with T-Money.
Opening hours: every day from 8:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.
ESSENTIAL VISIT
12. Gamcheon Culture Village (감천문화마을)
This is a residential area of Busan, an intricate maze of charming narrow streets. Until the 1980s, it was an underdeveloped village with a low income level. Then it was decided to redecorate houses and streets with a new look through various projects. Starting with an art project called Dreaming Machu Picchu of Busan.
Today, we can find colourful houses, numerous murals and sculptures throughout the neighbourhood. It is a lovely place to stroll on a summer afternoon.
13. Gwangalli Beach (광안리 해수욕장)
It is the most popular beach in Busan after Haeundae. Along its 1.4 km length, there are many restaurants and cafés.
From here, we can see the Gwangan Bridge in all its splendour, which is illuminated at night with different colours depending on the season.
More than a million people also gather here every October for the famous Busan International Fireworks Festival.
How to get there: Take metro line 2 to Gwangan Station, exit 5.
14. Trevi Fountain at Lotte Department Store Centum City
Lotte Department Store Centum City is a shopping centre belonging to the Japanese chain Lotte. But it’s not just any shopping centre. In the basement, where the underground station is located, there is a ‘replica’ of Rome’s Trevi Fountain.
It’s an interesting sight if you have time, but it really is a fountain that looks like it’s made of corkboard.
How to get there: Take metro line 2 to Centrum City station. Price: Free.
15. Haeinsa Temple and the Korean Tripitaka (해인사 성보박물관)
Haeinsa Temple is not actually in Busan, but near the city of Daegu. However, it is a good day trip from Busan.
The temple was founded in 802, supposedly by the monks Suneung and Ijeong. Upon returning from a trip to China, they cured King Aejang’s wife of her illness. In gratitude for Buddha’s mercy, the king ordered the construction of the temple.
The Korean Tripitaka (조계종 해인사) is the oldest and most complete intact version of the Buddhist canon in Chinese script, with no known errors or misprints.
It is carved on 81,350 wooden blocks, with 52,389,400 characters organised into 1,514 titles and 6,791 volumes. It is housed in four buildings called Janggyeong Panjeon, the Korean Tripitaka repository, which are arranged in a rectangular layout.
The Tripitaka is not accessible, but the walls of the pavilions are latticed, and the tablets can be seen from outside.
How to get there: To reach the temple, take the KTX train to Dongdaegu Station. From there, take metro line 1 to Seobu Station.
Seobu Bus Station is located here. Purchase a ticket at the ticket office (cash only) for 8,100₩ (€5.66) per trip. The journey takes approximately 90 minutes.
Dongdaegu Station
For the return journey, we must wait at the bus stop where we got off the bus until a car passes by, from which a young man gets out to sell us the ticket (cash only). A couple of minutes later, the bus arrives and we get on it to return to Daegu.
ESSENTIAL VISIT
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Busan (formerly known as Pusan), with a population of just over 3.5 million, is South Korea’s second most populous city and home to Korea’s most important port, making it the country’s most cosmopolitan city.
Although, in reality (even for me), this city was put on the map by cinema, of which it is a mecca, thanks to the film Train to Busan.
The area was already inhabited in prehistoric times, although it was not until the 2nd century that an organised settlement was established, led by the Jinhan.
It was absorbed by the Kingdom of Silla, one of the Three Kingdoms of Korea. In 757, it changed its name to Dongnae. This name is still used today by one of its districts.
During the 15th century, under the rule of the Joseon dynasty, it was designated as a commercial port of reference with Japan.
In 1876, the port of Busan was inaugurated, thus allowing international trade with other countries.
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Gimhae International Airport was opened in 1976 and is located west of the city.
There are several options for getting to Busan from the airport:
Transfer service
It’s not the cheapest option, but it is the most convenient. We definitely recommend the service offered by Civitatis. Fast, reliable and effective.
Bus
We can take the Limousine Bus, which has two lines:
Destination Seomyeon / Busan Station: take it from platform 3, floor 1 at the domestic and international terminals. The price is 6,000₩ (€4). The timetable is from 6.55am to 9.35pm and it takes about 40 minutes.
Destination Haeundae: Take it from platform 3, floor 1 at the domestic and international terminals. The price is 10,000₩ (6.80€). The schedule is from 6:55 to 21:55 and it takes about 1 hour.
Busan Metro
You can get to the airport by metro on the Busan Gimhae line (부산김해경전철).
To get to the city’s tourist attractions, you need to change to line 2 at Sasang Station or line 3 at Daejeo Station. The journey to Busan Station takes about 50 minutes and to Haeundae 1 hour.
The price varies depending on the route but is approximately 2,000₩ (1.35€). You can pay with T-Money.
Taxi
Taxis are the most expensive form of public transport, but they are relatively cheap compared to other cities.
Depending on the route, the price ranges from 18,000₩ (12.25€) to 28,000₩ (19€). Night-time fares incur a surcharge of between 20% and 30% depending on the time of day.
The journey takes between 40 and 80 minutes, depending on the destination.
There is also a Deluxe Taxi service, which costs between 32,400₩ and 50,400₩ (€22–€34). The journey time is the same as for regular taxis.
How to get to Busan by train
Normally, for our trip to South Korea, we will arrive at Seoul Airport, so the train will be the most common way to get to Busan.
The fastest and most efficient way is to take the KTX train, which is the name given to the Korean high-speed train.
The KTX train from Seoul takes approximately 2.5 hours (depending on which one we take) and the price is 56,800₩ (€38.65) for adults and 28,400₩ (€19.30) for children.
The schedule runs from 5:12 a.m. to 10:27 p.m., with trains departing approximately every 30 minutes.
This is probably the most common way to get around the city’s tourist attractions, although not all of them are accessible by metro.
The Busan metro consists of 4 lines and 114 stations. It also has 2 light rail lines.
The price of the Busan metro is slightly more expensive than the Seoul metro. The price of a standard ticket is between 1,400 and 1,600 won (0.96-1.10€). With T-Money, it is between 1,300 and 1,500 won (0.90-1€).
Metro station in Busan
Bus
We will rarely use the bus to get around the city, but there are several places that we will need it to get to. For example, the essential Haedong Yonggungsa Temple or the Oryukdo Skywalk.
The ticket price is the same as the underground and you can also pay with T-Money.
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Gyeongbokgung was the main palace during the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). It was inaugurated in 1395, three years after King Taejo founded the Joseon dynasty. It was built when the capital was moved from Gaeseong to Hanyang (present-day Seoul). Its name means ‘Palace Greatly Blessed by Heaven’.
The complex is over half a million square metres in size and has a rectangular ground plan.
The price is 3,000₩ (€2.10) and is included in the Royal Palace Pass. It’s also free if you’re in traditional dress. In fact, there is an exclusive queue for these people.
The changing of the guard takes place every day (several times) on the central esplanade. But before that, on a small esplanade outside the gate Hyeopsaengmun, a military training simulation is held. The Sumungun military training.
Access to the changing of the guard is free of charge.
How to get there: Gwanghwamun Subway Station, Line 5 // Gyeongbokgung (Government Complex-Seoul) Subway Station, Line 3.
Opening hours: January – February – November – December 9am-5pm // Rest of the year 9am-6pm.
Price: 3,000₩ // under 18 and over 65 free // Royal Palace Pass included.
Gwanghwamun Gate, the main gate of the Gyeongbokgung Palace complex.
The king used the central arch, while the crown prince and officials entered through the openings on either side. A bell in the gate pavilion announced the time of day.
During the bombings of the Korean War (1950-1953) the wooden pavilion was destroyed and the stone wall severely damaged. It was rebuilt in 1968 as a concrete structure, but restored to its original form as a wooden and granite structure in 2010.
03. Gwanghwamun Square (광화문광장)
Gwanghwamun Square is the nerve centre of Seoul. You will pass by it a thousand times.
In 1395, King Taejo established the city of Hanyang. In front of the palace, numerous government buildings were built, forming Yukjo Street. Some of these buildings were seriously damaged during the Japanese invasion in 1592.
During the Japanese occupation in the early 20th century, Yukjo Street was renamed Gwanghwamuntong Street. In 1926, the Joseon General Government built the Korean General Government building here and extended the street.
In the square we will find many remarkable elements. These are the following:
Statue of Admiral Yi Sun Shin
The first thing we come across, at the southern end of the square, is the statue of Admiral Yi Sun Shin. He was a Korean admiral and general who successfully defended his homeland from Japanese raids in 1592. He is also credited with the invention of the turtle ship, although he only modified an existing vessel.
Statue of King Sejong the Great
Located in the centre of the square. Sejong the Great reigned from 1397 to 1450. Among his many achievements was the creation of the Hangul alphabet, today’s Korean alphabet. Until that time only the Chinese alphabet was used. Changing it brought culture closer to the Korean people.
He also contributed to the development of agriculture and science, the systematisation of medical techniques, music and law, and the expansion of the national territory.
At the back of the statue is the entrance to King Sejong’s exhibition hall. There is an exhibition on the achievements of Sejong the Great.
King Sejong is considered the most admired figure by Koreans and his image appears on 10,000₩ banknotes.
Monument to the 40th anniversary of the enthronement of King Gojong
This monument in the form of a traditional pavilion is located at the southwest end of the square across the road.
It commemorates the 40th anniversary of the enthronement of King Gojong, the penultimate emperor of Korea.
National Museum of Korean Contemporary History
It is located across the road to the north of the square.
It was opened in 2012 and is an institution affiliated with the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism of the Republic of Korea, which oversees matters related to the collection, preservation, research, exhibition, education and exchange of modern and contemporary Korean history.
The museum is open from 10.00 to 18.00. Thursdays and Saturdays from 10.00 am to 9.00 pm. Admission is free.
Saheonbu Gate
To the north of the square are the ruins of Saheonbu Gate, found during an excavation in 2021.
How to get to Gwanghwamun Square: Gwanghwamun Subway Station, Line 5.
04. Changdeokgung Palace Complex (창덕궁)
Changdeokgung Palace was a favourite of the kings of the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910) because of its spacious and beautiful back garden.
It was built as a secondary palace for the Joseons in 1405. After its destruction during the Japanese invasion (1592-1598), it was rebuilt in 1610 and served as the main palace for about 270 years.
Changdeokgung Secret Garden
Within the palace complex is the Secret Garden. Today the garden can only be visited by guided tours.
The Secret Garden was intended as a place for kings and members of the royal family to relax. But it was also a place for various outdoor activities.
Early Joseon kings participated in military exercises here, and archery competitions were held here. There were also banquets for the queen dowager, prominent relatives of the king and high-ranking ministers.
The Secret Garden occupies almost 60% of the total area of Changdeokgung Palace, and in the old days even tigers occasionally made an appearance.
The spectacular scenery of the Buyongji Pond area is striking. This was not there in the early days of the palace. It was built in 1707. It survived the Japanese colonial period and the Korean War without being demolished.
Nakseonjae Hall
This is another building worth noting, especially for its history.
Nakseonjae Hall is the place where King Heonjong, the 24th king of Joseon, built for the concubine he truly loved. It was in 1847.
It is located in the area between Changdeokgung Palace and Changgyeonggung Palace and includes the Seokbokheon and Sugangjae halls, as well as stone stairs decorated with interestingly shaped stones and flowering trees on the gently sloping hills behind the buildings.
After the coup in 1884, Nakseonjae was used as the king’s office for a time.
The last crown prince of the Joseon Dynasty, Yi Eun, lived here from 1963 to 1970. His wife, Yi Bangja, also lived here from 1966 to 1989.
How to get there: Anguk Station (Exit 3) on Subway Line 3. Walk 5 minutes west of the station // Changdeokgung Palace Station. Donhwamun Traditional Theatre by bus, lines 109, 162, 710 and 7025.
Opening hours: Tuesday to Sunday from 9am to 5pm. Closed on Mondays.
Price: 3,000₩ // If you want to visit the Secret Garden (a must-see), you must add a supplement of 5,000₩ // Both are included in the Royal Palace Pass.
05. Changgyeonggung Palace (창경궁)
Changgyeonggung Palace was built in the mid-15th century by King Sejong for his father, Taejong. It was originally called ‘Suganggung,’ but was renovated and expanded in 1483 by King Seongjong, at which time it received its current name.
Many of the buildings were destroyed during the Japanese occupation in 1592. It was rebuilt by successive Joseon kings, but was once again largely destroyed by the Japanese in the early 20th century.
During the Japanese colonial period, the Japanese built a zoo, a botanical garden, and a museum on this site.
After independence in 1945 and the destruction of the Korean War of 1950-1953, the zoo was restocked thanks to donations from wealthy Koreans and gifts from foreign zoos. In 1983, the zoo and botanical garden were moved to the current Seoul Grand Park.
The spectacular Honghwamun Gate, the main gate of the palace, is worth noting. First built in 1484, it was burned down during the Japanese invasion of 1592. It was rebuilt in 1616.
How to get there: You can enter from Changdeokgung Palace or from Changgyeonggung-ro Street on the other side of the complex.
Opening hours: Tuesday to Sunday from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Closed on Mondays.
Price: 1,000₩. Included in the Royal Palace Pass.
06. Dancing next to the Gangnam Style sculpture
This sculpture is located in the Gangnam district, one of the most exclusive areas of Seoul.
As we got off the underground and left the station, we came across the monument to the song. Two giant hands representing the dance of the song, with it playing from a screen and always someone underneath making a fool of themselves.
A fool, of course, that we also made of ourselves, but I’m keeping the photos and videos to myself. But if you want to see some, you can check out my Instagram.
How to get there: Bongeunsa Station, Subway Line 9 // Samseong Station (World Trade Centre Seoul), Subway Line 2.
07. Bongeunsa Temple (봉은사) and the biggest Buddha in Korea
Bongeunsa Temple was founded in 794 by State Preceptor Yeonhoe, then the highest-ranking monk in Silla. Its name at that time was Gyeonseongsa.
During the Joseon Dynasty, Buddhism in Korea was severely suppressed and the temple was destroyed.
The temple became known as Bongeunsa when it was rebuilt in 1498 under the patronage of Queen Jeonghyeon, a queen of Joseon.
The term Bongeunsa means the act of honouring the king, which here can be understood as a prayer for the eternal life of King Seongjong.
With the support of Queen Munjeong, who revived Buddhism in Korea in the mid-16th century, it became the main temple of the Korean Buddhist Seon (Chan) sect from 1551 to 1936.
The monk Bou was appointed head of the temple in 1548 by Queen Munjeong. He was assassinated shortly afterwards when anti-Buddhist factions regained dominance in Korea towards the end of Queen Munjeong’s reign.
During the Japanese occupation in the 20th century, the temple became the headquarters of 80 smaller Buddhist temples around Seoul. After colonial rule, Bongeunsa became subordinate to the Jogye Order, the largest Buddhist sect in Korea.
A fire in 1939 destroyed most of the buildings, and other parts of the temple were destroyed during the Korean War.
The temple is home to the Bongeunsa Maitreya Buddha, the largest Buddha in Korea at 23 metres high.
The truth is that the temple is a real haven of peace in the middle of bustling Seoul. What’s more, the entrance fee is free.
How to get there: Bongeunsa station (exit 1), metro line 9.
08. Cheong Wa Dae, the Blue House (청와대)
It is the former executive office and official residence of the President of South Korea from 1948 to 2022.
Cheong Wa Dae is a complex of multiple buildings constructed largely in the traditional Korean architectural style with some modern architectural elements and facilities.
It was formerly the site of the Joseon Dynasty’s royal garden dating back to 1426. The complex burned down in 1592 during the Japanese occupation and remained abandoned for 270 years.
In 1865 Prince Regent Heungseon began reconstruction in the second year of King Gojong’s reign.
During the Japanese occupation in the early 20th century it was used to hold the Joseon Exposition from 1937 to 1939 and later served as a park before the official residence of the Japanese governor general was built on the site.
After registering our passports at the entrance and passing through a strict security check, we enter the grounds.
We pass through another security check into the building and visit the offices and various rooms. They include a collection of objects used by the different presidents and the president of South Korea, portraits of all the presidents and photos of the first ladies.
How to get there: Ideally, the visit should be combined with a visit to Gyeongbokgung Palace. From Sinmumun Gate, north of the palace complex, just cross the street.
Opening hours: 9am-6pm. Closed on Tuesdays.
Price: free of charge.
09. Bukchon Hanok Village (북촌 한옥마을)
Bukchon Hanok Village is a neighbourhood that is home to hundreds of traditional houses, called hanok, dating back to the Joseon dynasty.
The name Bukchon, which literally translates as ‘northern village’, came about because the neighbourhood is located north of two important Seoul landmarks, Cheonggyecheon Stream and Jongno.
Today, many of these hanok function as cultural centres, guesthouses, restaurants and tea houses.
It should be remembered that it is also a residential neighbourhood. There are many signs in various languages asking for silence, and even people dressed in yellow to make sure everything is quiet.
How to get there: Bukchon Hanok Village Entrance stop, bus 02.
10. Learn the history of the inter-Korean conflict at the Korean War Memorial (전쟁기념관)
The Korean War Memorial exhibits and preserves materials related to the Korean War and serves as a place of national moral education.
It was established by the Korean War Memorial Service Society on June 10, 1994. It was made to commemorate the noble sacrifice of patriotic martyrs.
The museum houses approximately 33,000 artefacts and about 10,000 artefacts are displayed in indoor and outdoor exhibits.
There are six separate interior rooms. They include the Expeditionary Forces Hall, the Patriotic Memorial Hall, the War History Hall, the Korean War 6-25 Hall, the Development Hall and the Large Machinery Hall.
One of the monuments that surprised us the most was the Statue of Brothers (형제의 상), which we were told about during the DMZ tour. Mostly because of the history.
The Brothers Statue is a symbol of the Korean War. It depicts a dramatic moment when a South Korean officer and his younger brother, a North Korean soldier, meet and embrace on the battlefield. The statue expresses reconciliation, love and forgiveness.
How to get there: Samgagji station (exit 14), metro lines 4 and 6.
Opening hours: Tuesday to Sunday 9.30am-6pm. Closed on Mondays.
Price: free of charge.
11. Namsan Mountain Park (남산 공원)
Namsan is a 270-metre high mountain located in the centre of Seoul. It was originally called Inkyongsan. After the capital was moved from Kaesong to Seoul by King Taejo (by Feng Shui), it was called ‘Namsan’. It was because it is a southern mountain.
Everywhere there are a million of those padlocks that are so fashionable, destroying the heritage of the world’s cities. Although here they really sell them to you on purpose to do so. I still think it’s a stupid thing to do.
The best thing about Mount Namsan is the spectacular 360º views of Seoul.
There are several noteworthy features on Mount Namsan.
Namsan Beacon Mound
Namsan Beacon Mound is a Joseon-era guard post. From time to time there is a military re-enactment of the era.
At certain times, there is a sort of changing of the guard, although it is much less spectacular than the one at Gyeongbokgung Palace.
Namsan Palgakjeong, the Octogona Pavilion (남산팔각정)
It was built in 1959 to commemorate former Korean President Rhee Syngman. It was originally called Unamjeong Pavilion.
It was destroyed during the 1960 April Revolution against President Syngman, which led to his resignation. It was rebuilt in 1968.
It is especially famous during the New Year when crowds of Koreans go up to watch the first sunrise of the year.
N Seoul Tower (N서울타워)
The star of Mount Namsan. It is a 236-metre high telecommunications tower built in 1969. It was opened to the public in 1980 and has wonderful 360º views of Seoul.
At its base you will find restaurants, cafes and a souvenir shop.
The price for the 5th floor observatory is 21,000₩ (€14.70).
How to get to Mount Namsan: The best way is to take the Namsan cable car. It costs 11,000₩ one way (€7.70) and 14,000₩ return (€9.80).
Tip: The best way to get to the cable car is to take Sogong-ro Avenue and then take the free lift to the cable car. You’ll avoid the steep slopes.
Buy your tickets for the N Seoul Tower at the following link:
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12. Cheonggyecheon
Cheonggyecheon Creek originates from Baekdongcheon Creek in the Inwansang Mountain Valley, northwest of Gyeongbokgung Palace. It runs through the centre of Seoul and is almost 11 km long.
During the Japanese occupation, it was planned to cover the stream, but it was not realised. However, the project was realised between 1958 and 1978.
In 2003, the Metropolitan Government proposed a project to restore the area. In 2005, the restoration work was completed and about 5 km of the creek was repaired, leaving it as it is today.
Events such as concerts are held in the surrounding area. In summer, in the heat, you can relax and cool off by sitting with your feet soaking in the stream.
How to get there: City Hall station, underground lines 1 and 2.
13. Learn more about the separation of the two Koreas at the DMZ
The DMZ, the Korean Demilitarised Zone, is a strip of land that crosses the Korean Peninsula near the 38th parallel north, dividing it roughly in half.
It was established to serve as a buffer zone between the countries of North and South Korea under the provisions of the 1953 Korean Armistice Agreement. An agreement between North Korea, China and the United Nations Command.
The DMZ is 250 kilometres long and about 4 kilometres wide and is heavily guarded and mined. For a demilitarised zone, it is the most heavily militarised strip of land in the world.
IMPORTANT: The DMZ is only accessible by guided tour. It is impossible to visit it on your own and there are several strict military checkpoints for access.
In our travel diary you can find more details about the DMZ and what we visited during our tour.
You can take this interesting excursion to the DMZ with Civitatis:
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14. Wearing a Hanbok
Hanbok is the traditional Korean dress and is characterised by bright colours. In the old days, these colours had great social significance. They were used to distinguish the people from the royalty or married women from unmarried women.
Nowadays there are plenty of places where you can rent them for a few hours to walk around historical sites and take some nice pictures.
Deoksugung is one of the ‘Five Great Palaces’ built by the kings of the Joseon dynasty. It was inhabited by the Joseons until the beginning of the Japanese occupation in 1910. Today only 1/3 of the original structures remain.
It was originally the residence of Grand Prince Wolsan, the elder brother of King Seongjong. Deoksugung became a royal residence when the Japanese burned the remaining palaces during their occupation in 1592.
King Gwanghaegun was crowned in this palace in 1608 and renamed it Gyeongun-gung in 1611. After the reconstruction of Changdeokgung, it was converted back into an auxiliary palace in 1618 and renamed Seogung.
In 1907, the palace was renamed Deoksugung, in reference to the emperor’s wish for longevity. Emperor Gojong died in Hamnyeongjeon.
After the last Japanese occupation in 1910, the complex was converted into a park and many buildings were destroyed. Today only 1/3 of the original elements of the complex remain.
How to get there: City Hall station, underground lines 1 and 2.
Opening hours: daily 9am-9pm.
Price: 1,000₩ (€0.70) // Included in the Royal Palace Pass.
Enjoy a beautiful guided night tour of Deoksugung Palace with Civitatis:
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16. Street food in Myeong-Dong
Myeongdong is the largest shopping district and one of the main tourist destinations in the old centre of Seoul.
Here, apart from shops, there are millions of street stalls selling all kinds of food.
How to get there: Myeongdong Station, underground line 4 // Euljiro 1(il)-ga Station, underground line 2.
17. National Folk Museum of Korea
The National Folk Museum of Korea was founded in 1946 and is a museum representing the daily life and culture of Korea. It is visited by more than two million people every year.
The beautiful building alone is worth a visit. You can also see numerous exhibits in the gardens.
How to get there: we can combine your visit with Gyeongbokgung Palace and the Blue House.
Opening hours: daily from 9.00 am to 6.00 pm. Saturdays from 9.00 am to 8.00 pm.
Price: free of charge.
18. Jogyesa Temple (조계사)
It was built in 1910 and was named Gakhwangsa Temple, after monks who longed for independence from Korean Buddhism.
The name was changed to ‘Taegosa’ during the period of Japanese rule, and then to the current name in 1954.
As soon as we entered, we found a spectacular lotus plantation in front of the main pavilion. It was a real marvel.
In the main courtyard of the temple is the 7-storey stone pagoda, built in 1930. Inside the pagoda are the ashes of Buddha, which were brought here in 1914 by a Sinhalese monk.
How to get there: Jonggak Station (Exit 2), Metro Line 1 // 6 minutes walk southeast of Anguk Station (Exit 6), Metro Line 3.
Price: free of charge.
19. Strolling around Insadong
Insadong is a shopping street with numerous shops selling traditional goods, artwork, restaurants and tea houses.
It is really a main street with several small streets branching off along it. It is a great place to buy some souvenirs.
20. Unhyeongung Palace (운현궁)
Unhyeongung Palace was built as the residence of King Gojong, the 26th king of the Joseon Dynasty before he assumed the throne at the age of 12.
During Gojong’s tenure, the regent Heungseon ruled the country for about 10 years, after taking control of state affairs from his son.
In 1864, during the first year of King Gojong, the Nokrakdang and Noandang Halls were built. Five years later, in 1869, the Irodang and Yeongnodang Halls were built.
To facilitate entry and exit from Changdeokgung Palace, Gyeonggeunmun and Gonggeunmun gates were built exclusively for Gojong and the regent Heungseon. However, they are no longer standing.
The palace was purchased in 1993 by the city of Seoul and was reopened in 1996 after extensive restoration.
In the various buildings there is an exhibition of how life was lived at the time when the palace was occupied.
How to get there: Anguk station (exit 4), metro line 3.
Opening hours: April to October 9.00 am – 7.00 pm // November to March 9.00 am – 6.00 pm.
Price: free of charge.
21. Namsangol Hanok Village (남산골 한옥마을)
Namsangol Hanok Village simulates a traditional Korean neighbourhood and opened in 1998 on the north side of Namsan Mountain.
It features five restored hanok, a pavilion, a traditional garden, a performing arts stage and a time capsule plaza. The hanok belonged to aristocrats and government officials of the Joseon dynasty who were moved here from other places.
To celebrate the 600th anniversary of the creation of Seoul in 1994, 600 cultural relics representing the appearance of Seoul and the lives of its citizens were buried in capsules.
This capsule will be opened on the city’s 1000th anniversary, 29 November 2394 (if humanity is still alive…).
How to get there: Chungmuro station, underground lines 3 and 4.
Opening hours: April to October 9am-9pm // November to March 9am-8pm // The gardens are open 24 hours a day.
Price: free of charge.
22. Sungnyemun Gate (숭례문)
Sungnyemun Gate is one of the four main gates of the fortress built to protect the city.
It was built between 1396 and 1398 and is the oldest wooden building in Seoul. It was restored between 1961 and 1963.
In 2008 a fire caused severe damage to the entire structure and the destruction of the entire second-floor roof and part of the first-floor roof. It took five years to restore it completely.
How to get there: Seoul Central Station, underground lines 1 and 4 // Hoehyeon Station, underground line 4.
23. Heunginjimun Gate (흥인지문)
Heunginjimun Gate was built in 1396 during the reign of King Taejo, the first king of the Joseon Dynasty. It is the eastern gate of the city’s defensive wall.
The gate has been destroyed and rebuilt several times. The present gate dates from 1869 and has the appearance of the original gate. Its name, Heunginjimun, means ‘Gate of Growing Benevolence’. It is also known as Dongdaemun Gate (Great East Gate).
How to get there: Dongdaemun Station, underground lines 1 and 4.
24. Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP)
The futuristic building was built in 2009 to a design by the Anglo-Iraqi architect Zaha Hadid.
It opened in 2014 and is a multi-purpose building that hosts exhibitions, fashion shows and all kinds of cultural events.
When we were there, it was full of old televisions. There was also a room called the Media Art Gallery with giant screens that took up almost the entire room. These share splendid moments drawn by SeouLight, a global festival of media facades.
They were really just showing strange images with a rather soothing music.
There is also a shop and a large space simulating a modern garden with some tables and pouffes where we sat down to rest.
At the back of the room there were some kind of conical stools that, when you sat down, you spun around as if you were going to tip over. It was really fun. We made videos but they were embarrassing, so we kept them to ourselves…
How to get there: Dongdaemun History & Culture Park station, metro lines 2, 4 and 5.
Opening hours: daily from 10.00 to 20.00.
Price: free of charge.
25. Jongmyo Shrine (종묘)
Jongmyo Shrine was the main place of worship for the royal family during the Joseon dynasty. It was built at the same time as Gyeongbokgung Palace, under the orders of King Taejo, the first Joseon king.
The shrine was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site on 9 December 1995.
How to get there: Jongno 3-ga station, underground lines 1, 3 and 5.
Opening hours: February to May, September and October 9am-6pm // June to August 9am-6.30pm // November to January 9am-5.30pm.
Price: 1,000₩ (€0.70) and is included in the Royal Palace Pass // Free on the last Wednesday of every month.
If you’re short on time, you can book a great guided tour of Seoul with Civitatis:
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If there is time…
26. Banpo Bridge (반포대교)
The Banpo Bridge is one of the most famous bridges across the Han River. Especially for the (supposed) light and water show with its 10,000 LED light bulbs that made it into the Guinness Book of Records.
As it happened to us in Japan the two times we tried to see the lights of the Rainbow Bridge… they cheated us. No lights, no fountains, no nothing.
Although in summer, it’s really nice in the evening. Many Koreans come to picnic at their base on the banks of the Han River.
How to get there: Express Bus Terminal station (exit 8-1), metro lines 3, 7 and 9.
27. Tapgol Park (탑골공원)
It is a small park located in the centre of Seoul, between Gwanghwamun Square and Jongmyo Shrine. It is home to several notable features.
Tapgol Park is historically important as the birthplace of the March 1st Movement of 1919. It was the first place where the Proclamation of Independence was read. There are several statues with bas-reliefs to attest to the fact.
Wongaksa Pagoda
This is a 10-storey, 12-metre-high stone pagoda built in 1467. It stands on the site of the former Wongaksa Temple. The temple was built in 1465 by King Sejo and was the head temple of the Jogye Order.
Records indicate that the pagoda originally had 13 stories. It was built to house the Sarira and the Wongakgyeong (Wongak Sutras), which had recently been translated at that time.
Wongaksa Monument
The Wongaksa Monument, built in 1471, was erected to record the founding of Wongaksa Temple.
On the front is an inscription composed by Kim Suon with calligraphy by Seong Im. On the reverse is an inscription composed by Seo Geo Jeong with calligraphy by Jeong Nam Jong.
How to get there: Jongno 3-ga Station (Exit 1), underground lines 1, 3 and 5 // Jong-Gag Station (Exit 7), underground line 1.
28. Bosingak (보신각)
Bosingak is a huge bell pavilion that gives its name to the avenue where it is located: Jongno. It literally means Bell Street.
It was originally built in 1395, but after multiple destructions, the present one was built in 1895. The bell was installed in the palace during the Joseon rule and is now only rung at midnight on New Year’s Eve.
How to get there: Jong-Gag Station (Exit 4), Metro Line 1.
29. Seoul City Hall
Seoul City Hall consists of two buildings. The original was built in 1925 during the Japanese occupation. It served as the city hall from the liberation of Korea in 1945 until 2008. It now houses the Seoul Metropolitan Library. Behind it is the current modern building, which was opened in 2012.
Various events are held in the town hall square throughout the year.
In one corner of the square there is also a memorial stand for the victims of the stampede on 29 October 2022 during Seoul’s Halloween celebrations. On that day, 152 people died.
How to get there: City Hall Station, underground lines 1 and 2.
30. Igansumun, the water door
Igansumun was the water gate of the Namsomundongcheon Stream originating from Namsan Mountain, which flowed from Hanyangdoseong, the city wall of Seoul in the Joseon Dynasty.
In addition to releasing the flow of water, it had a defensive function and was guarded by soldiers who guarded the gate.
It was buried during the Japanese occupation and was found and restored in 2009 during the construction of the Dongdaemun Historical and Cultural Park.
How to get there: located in the outer precinct of Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP). Dongdaemun History & Culture Park Station, underground lines 2, 4 and 5.
Discover the best activities and tours in Seoul with Civitatis:
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Here you will find a map with all the places marked:
This will be the mode of transport by which most of us will arrive in South Korea. The Seoul area is served by two airports: Gimpo International Airport and Incheon International Airport.
Incheon International Airport
This is the largest airport in South Korea and is located in the city of Incheon, about 60 km from the centre of Seoul.
There are several options for getting to Seoul from Incheon Airport.
Train
This is the most popular means of transport. There are two options, the A’REX All Stops and the A’REX Express.
As the name suggests, the A’REX Express runs non-stop between the airport and Seoul Station. It takes 51 minutes from Terminal 2 and 43 minutes from Terminal 1.
The fare is 11,000₩ (€7.70) for adults and 8,000₩ (€5.60) for children.
Buy your AREX Express ticket in advance on Civitatis:
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The A’REX All Stop train makes 13 stops from Airport Terminal 2 to Seoul Station. The journey takes 66 minutes from Terminal 2 and 59 minutes from Terminal 1.
Ticket prices vary depending on which stop you get on/off the train. From Terminal 2 to Gongdeok, which is the longest route, the fare is 5,050₩ (3.50€).
The truth is that, unless you are staying at an earlier stop, the most practical way is to get on the Express.
Bus
At Incheon Airport there are many different bus lines serving Seoul and other surrounding cities.
There are two types of private buses: Deluxe Limousine Bus, which is faster but more expensive. Between 14,000 and 16,000₩ (9.76 – 11.15€).
The Standard Limousine Bus is slower but cheaper. Between 9,000 and 10,000₩.
Regular Bus
There are also several regular bus routes such as Bus route no.6001 to Dongdaemun or Bus route no.6005 to Seoul City Hall.
If you prefer comfort, you can always hire an efficient transfer service with Civitatis:
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Taxi
This is the most expensive form of transport. The fare is between 60,000 and 100,000₩ (42 – 70€) and the journey takes about 60 minutes, depending on the (terrible) traffic in the city.
Gimpo International Airport
Gimpo International Airport is located 15 km from the centre of Seoul. Formerly known as Kimpo International Airport, it was the main airport in Seoul and South Korea.
Since the opening of Incheon Airport in 2001, it has functioned as a secondary airport. It is still the second most important airport in the country.
Here are the main transport options between Gimpo and Seoul:
Subway
You can take Seoul Metro lines 5 and 9. Line 5 is probably the most convenient as it takes you directly to the city centre.
Line 5
The fare to central Seoul is 1,700₩ (€1.20) for a single ticket or 1,600₩ (€1.10) with the T-Money card. As you can see, it’s pretty cheap.
Line 9 is good for going directly to the area south of the Han River, such as Gangnam or the Express Bus Terminal.
Line 9
The fare to the Express Bus Terminal is 1,800₩ (€1.25) for a single ticket or 1,700₩ (€1.20) with the T-Money card.
Train
You can also take the A’Rex All Stops train from Incheon Airport. The journey takes about 30 minutes.
A’Rex All Stops
Gimpo Gold Line
The Gimpo Gold Line is an unmanned light rail line that only serves the city of Gimpo. As such, it is of little use to ordinary tourists.
Bus
The Calt company has two lines, 6101 and 6105 and the fare is 9,000₩ (6.25€) for adults and 6,000₩ (4.15€) for children.
There are two types of taxis: Standard and Deluxe. Of course, taxis are by far the most expensive form of transport.
The fare to Seoul City Hall is approximately 22,000₩ (15.30€) for the Standard and 40,000₩ (27.75€) for the Deluxe.
How to get to Seoul by train
Seoul Station is the largest and busiest station in the country with over 100,000 passengers a day. It is the station we will use to take the KTX to various cities in the country, such as Busan.
To get to the station we can take Metro lines 1 and 4.
How to get to Seoul by bus
The main bus station is the Express Bus Terminal. Apart from being a bus station, it is a shopping centre with numerous shops and many restaurants.
From this station we take the bus to the city of Sokcho on the east coast of Korea.
To get there we can take Metro lines 3, 7 and 9.
Getting around Seoul
Subway
This is the most efficient way to get around the city. You can get to most tourist spots on it. It consists of 10 city lines and 6 suburban lines; and a network of 282 kilometres.
The minimum single fare is 1,400₩ (€0.97) and goes up by 100₩ (€0.07) depending on how far you travel. To this you have to add an extra 500₩ (€0.35) as a deposit when you take the single ticket.
Once you finish your journey and exit the turnstile, you must insert it into a machine which will refund the 500₩. The card is NOT rechargeable.
The most practical way is to pay with the T-Money card, which is also 100₩ cheaper.
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Bus
There are 4 types of buses, differentiated by their colours.
Blue, which travel long distances.
Green, which travel shorter distances and connect major underground stations or bus terminals outside central Seoul.
Red, which are express buses specially designed for passengers travelling between downtown Seoul and the metropolitan area.
Yellow which are circulator buses. These circulate around parts of Seoul and will stop at stations near business, tourist and shopping areas.
To pay on the bus you will have to put the exact amount in a machine next to the driver. Don’t try to cheat him, because he will either be attentive or he will check that you have the right amount.
Taxis in Seoul are relatively cheap compared to Spain and other countries. The basic fare for an ordinary taxi is around 3,800₩ during the day (€2.60) and 4,600₩ (€3.20) between midnight and 4am. For each kilometre travelled, the meter will increase by 1,000₩ (€0.70).
Other information of interest
Royal Palace Pass
The Royal Palace Pass is a special pass that allows you to visit up to five royal palaces in Seoul, including the Secret Garden.
It costs 10,000₩ (€7) and is valid for 3 months from the date of purchase. It can be purchased at the ticket office of any of the palaces.
On google maps it appears as Good Restaurant. Korean barbecue restaurant with spectacular meat and very good prices.
Address: 47-3 Gyeongun-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul.
Opening hours: daily from 11.00 am to 9.30 pm.
Gobong Samgyetang Gwanghwamun (고봉삼계탕 광화문점)
He specialises in Samgyetan, which is like a kind of cream with A WHOLE CHICKEN INSIDE! stuffed with rice. It was really good even though it was an awful lot of food.
Address: South Korea, Seoul, Jongno-gu, Sinmunno 1(il)-ga, 25 정우빌딩 2층.
Opening hours: daily from 10.30 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Lotteria
This is a Japanese hamburger chain that you will find all over South Korea. The burgers are not very big (we had already tried it in Japan) but they are not bad and it is not expensive.
No Brand Burger
Another burger chain. This time South Korean. The burgers are not bad and at a good price. Also the soft drinks are refillable for the hot days…
Onigiriwaigyudon (오니기리와이규동)
This is a chain specialising in onigiri and tonkatsu. It’s pretty good and very cheap.
Myeongdong Market
Myeongdong. This is the largest shopping district and one of the main tourist destinations in the old centre of Seoul. There, apart from shops, there are millions of street stalls selling all kinds of food.
Mealbon
Korean food at a very good price. It’s good but almost everything is spicy. Located in Seoul train station.
Paris Baguette
It’s a chain of bakery-pastry shops that you’ll find on almost any street corner in South Korea. It’s good but not too cheap. Perfect for breakfast if you don’t have it included in the hotel.
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Suwon
Maehyang Whole Chicken
Typical Suwon fried chicken place. It’s very cheap and really good. You will see that it is full of local people. Basically they only serve fried chicken and the portion is, at a guess, a whole chicken. The portion is 15,000₩ and we ate two people with one.
Although it has become more touristy, here you’ll find a multitude of local food stalls, especially seafood. Including some pretty… weird stuff.
Haedong Yonggungsa Temple
This is not a restaurant, of course. It is a spectacular temple located by the sea, but we add it here because on Sundays they offer free noodles to visitors.
BBQ Chiken
Korean fried chicken place. The difference with others is that they fry it in olive oil. Very generous portions (one portion is enough for two people). Very good price despite being in a tourist area.
To get in you have to go up some narrow stairs in a building. It is not at street level but it is well signposted.
Address: Haeundae-gu, Gunam-ro, 34-1 2 층.
Opening hours: daily from 12:00 to 23:00.
Jagalchi Fish Market
As the name suggests, this is a fish market. Here you can buy fish that will be cooked for you at stalls throughout the market or take it home.
Address: 52 Jagalchihaean-ro, Jung-gu.
Opening hours: 5am-10pm. Closed on Tuesdays.
Woodduk
They specialise in ribs but they also have hot pot. It wasn’t bad and it wasn’t expensive, but it’s a touristy place, so it was no big deal either.
Address: 25 Gunam-ro, Haeundae-gu.
Opening hours: Open 24 hours.
Tongdosa Temple
Like Haedong Yonggungsa Temple, it is not a restaurant. But on Sundays they give free meals to visitors. Vegan food from Buddhist monks. Besides, the temple is a real eye-catcher.
문가네정육식당 광안점 (Moonganae Jungyuk Sikdang)
Typical Korean barbecue restaurant. Really good and not expensive. Highly recommended.
Address: Suyeong-gu, Suyeong-ro, 506 더샵상가동 1호.
Opening hours: daily from 12.00 to 23.00.
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Gyeongju
Bagel Bageler
As the name suggests, it specialises in bagels. They are amazing, although not cheap. The place is also very nice and has a curious view.
Convenience stores are a good option for a quick bite to eat. Most are open 24 hours a day and all have ready-made meals. They also have millions of varieties of instant ramen and hot water to make them.
There are several chains but the most popular are 7eleven and GS25.
Breakfast bought at a 7eleven
Other Places
Jamba Juice
It is a franchise of natural fruit juices and smoothies. It’s not cheap but they are very good and yes, they make them with natural fruits and not with syrups.
Twosome Place
This is a chain of Starbucs-type coffee shops. Similar to this one and with similar prices. They are all over South Core.
Tom N Toms Coffee
Another Starbucks-type coffee shop chain. Same as this one or Twosome Place.
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Here you can see a map with the marked sites:
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