In this post we will discover everything you should know and visit on the island of Miyajima (宮島).
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Content:
- Practical information
- Brief history of Miyajima
- How to get to Miyajima
- What to see in Miyajima
- Where to stay
- Travel Diaries
Practical information
Itsukushima (厳島) is an island located within Hiroshima Bay, in the Seto Inland Sea. Its common name is Aki-no-Miyajima (あ芸の宮島) or Miyajima (宮島).
A brief history of Miyajima
Since ancient times, the island itself is believed to have been an object of nature worship.
During the pre-Heian period (794 – 1185) it was important in maritime traffic and Itsukushima Temple was really influential.
In the middle of the Edo period (1603 – 1868), the island became widely known as one of the three most picturesque places in Japan. It then flourished as one of the country’s most popular tourist and pilgrimage destinations.
Today, with a population of just over 1,800, it is visited by more than 3 million worshippers and tourists a year from Japan and abroad.
How to get to Miyajima
There is only one way to get to Itsikushima: by sea.
From Hiroshima Station, take the San-yo line to Miyajimaguchi Station. The journey takes between 20 and 30 minutes. The price is 420¥ (2.70€) and is included in the JRPass.
There we must take the JR West Miyajima Ferry of the Japan Rail company. The fare is 200¥ (1.30€) and is valid JRPass.
IMPORTANT: As of 1 October 2023, a tourist tax of 100¥ (€0.65) must be paid when boarding the ferry. Even if you use the JRPass, you will still have to pay it.
What to see in Miyajima
Itsukushima Shrine (嚴島神社)
It is one of the most important Shinto shrines in Japan and is dedicated to the Three Goddesses of Munakata. They are: Ichikishimahime no Mikoto, Tagorihime no Mikoto and Tagitsuhime no Mikoto.
According to the tradition of the shrine, it was founded in 593, the first year of Emperor Suiko’s reign. It was when Saeki Kuramoto, a powerful family of the region, received an oracle to build a shrine. With imperial permission, he built a shrine to enshrine Princess Ichikishima on Mikasa Beach.
The first mention of the shrine in literature is in an article from 811, which states that it was entrusted to a Meishin.
In the late Heian period (794-1185), the shrine was worshipped by the Heike clan. As the Heike clan prospered, Itsukushima shrine also flourished. After its fall, the shrine continued to be venerated by the Minamoto clan and other powerful figures of the time.
During the Edo period, pilgrimages to Itsukushima became popular among the population.
After the Meiji Restoration, the shrine’s pavilions were considered Buddhist by the Grand Councillor of the Meiji government. They were ordered to be burned in accordance with the principle of separation of Shinto and Buddhism. The chief priest appealed and succeeded in preventing the destruction, but all the colours of the shrine buildings, which were considered Buddhist, were removed and replaced with white wood.
The shrine was designated a national treasure at the end of the Meiji era. The destroyed buildings were rebuilt between 1912 and 1926.
Six of the shrine’s buildings, including the main hall, the worship hall and the cloister, have been designated national treasures, while 14 buildings have been designated important cultural properties.
But the most remarkable feature of the shrine is undoubtedly the 15-metre-high Great Torii. It is constructed of decay-resistant camphor wood.
The present torii dates back to 1875, although there has been one here since 1168. When the tide is high, the torii seems to float, and when the tide is low, it can be reached on foot from the island.
By the way, at certain times of the day, the outbound ferry route is extended a little and passes next to the great Torii to be able to admire and photograph it.
Opening hours: 1 March to 14 October from 6.30am to 6pm // December from 6.30am to 5pm // Rest of winter from 6.30am to 5.30pm.
Price: Adults 500¥ // Teenagers 300¥ // Children 100¥.
Access to the Great Torii is free
ESSENTIAL VISIT
Toyokuni Shrine (豊国神社)
Toyokuni Shrine or Senjokaku Pavilion was commissioned in 1587 by Toyotomi Hideyoshi. However, construction was halted after his death in 1598. Today, after more than 400 years, it remains unfinished.
The most remarkable feature of the temple is its five-storey pagoda. Standing 28 metres high, it was built in 1407, long before Toyokuni Shrine. However, the actual pagoda dates back to 1533.
Daishō-in Temple (大聖院)
Daisho-in Temple was built in 806 and is the oldest temple on Miyajima. It was founded by Kobo Daishi, founder of the Kukai Shinto sect. This is one of the most important temples of the Shingon Buddhist sect.
The temple has a multitude of Buddha statues representing the seven gods of luck. It also has a lot of stairs.
Opening hours: every day from 8.00 to 16.00.
Price: free.
ESSENTIAL VISIT
Mount Misen
Misen is a 535m high mountain located in the centre of Miyajima and has been an object of worship since ancient times.
It is said that Kobo Daishi founded Mount Yayama in the first year of Daido (806) during the Heian period (794-1185). The mountain then became a place of ascetic practice for Shingon Buddhism.
You can either walk up from the base, or take the gondola lift to the top. The gondola costs 1,000 yen (€6) one way and 1,800 yen (€11) return. We took the gondola up and walked down.
If you want to do the whole thing on foot, it’s about 3km of stairs for the most part.
From here you can enjoy stunning views of the Seto Inland Sea.
Along the route through the mountain we can see some remarkable places. These are described below:
Shishiiwa viewpoint: we find it next to the final station of the cable car. Spectacular views before starting our route.
Misen Hondo Hall: Kobo Daishi, founder of the Shingon Buddhist sect, stayed here for 100 days to meditate.
During those days, through an ascetic ceremony, he lit a fire by burning ‘goma-gi’. That flame is still alive today 1,200 years later in the Reikado Hall. The same flame was used to light the flame of peace in Hiroshima.
The hall is also known as the shrine of lovers because of the eternal flame symbolising eternal love.
Sankido Hall: dedicated to three ogres with wisdom, fortune and exorcism; but also to security in the home and prosperity in business.
Kannondo and Monjudo Halls: the former to favour easy childbirth and the latter for success in studies.
Fudo-iwa Rock: there is a statue of Fudo Myoo, protector of the Shingon Buddhist sect. There is also the Kuguri-iwa rock, which forms an arch through which one must pass in order to follow the path.
Mount Misen viewpoint: it is located at the top of the mountain. There is a two-storey structure from which you can enjoy spectacular views.
There is also wifi, toilets and a small information point.
Niomon: the gate of Mount Misen. The current gate dates from 2012, having been destroyed by a typhoon in 2004. Only the two side statues survived.
IMPORTANT: along the way you will find signs warning that you may encounter poisonous vipers and how to act. Follow the advice as we came across two of them.
Sunset in front of the Great Torii
This is one of the things you must do. It is said to be one of the most spectacular sunsets in Japan. And I think it might be true.
We recommend spending the night on the island or in Hiroshima so you don’t have to rush around.
Where to stay in Miyajima
We stayed at a ryokan called the Sakuraya Hotel. It’s great value for money and has an onsen to relax at the end of a tiring day.
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