Canada 2019: we visited Ontario and Quebec

After our visit to New York City, we set off on our Canadian adventure.

July 23rd

We took the flight from La Guardia airport in New York at 14.00 (more than an hour late) and landed at around 15.30. The airline of choice was Westjet, a low-cost Canadian airline. The airline of choice was Westjet, a low-cost Canadian airline. Except for the delay it was quite a comfortable flight and they even gave us a small snack.

As a first culture shock… the bus shelter at the airport bus stop with a heater. Winter must be a bit harsh.

Toronto

We went straight to a relative’s house to rest a bit before going out for a walk.

In the afternoon, we spent some time strolling around as a first contact with the city. A look at the CN Tower and see the views from the Harbour Front with an iced coffee from Tim Horton’s, a Canadian chain of coffee shops like Starbucks but much cheaper that is all over Canada, in any corner, town or road, there is a Tim Horton’s there.

Harbour Front
Harbour Front

In the evening, on our way back to our accommodation, we went to the Wychwood Pub on St. Claire Ave. for dinner, which was wings night.

They were very, very good and not expensive. The waitress was very funny and we laughed a lot with her. Highly recommended but very far from the centre.

July 24th

We started the day with lots of energy by eating a hearty American breakfast at Sunset Grill on Yonge street, a franchise restaurant serving breakfast all day long.

Sunset Grill

With our stomachs full, we went in search of Nathan Phillips Square, where the city hall and the old city hall stand to one side.

In the square there is the typical giant Toronto sign to take a few photos and behind it the new city hall building. It is a very modernist building where some films have been shot, such as the second part of Resident Evil.

Next to the square is the old city hall building, a more classical construction and, to my taste, much nicer than the new one.

Old City Hall
Old City Hall
City Hall
City Hall

There must have been some kind of beauty pageant or something that day because, all of a sudden, about 50 young girls showed up to have their pictures taken by a professional photographer. Then it was time to retreat.

We took a stroll down to the lakeshore past Toronto’s skyscrapers, Union Station and the Scotia bank Arena to the ferry station to visit the Toronto Islands.

After a twenty minute ride with breathtaking views of the Toronto skyline, we disembark at Centre Island.

The island is set up as a sort of Sunday theme park, where families go to spend the day. There is a small amusement park, a farm with barnyard animals and some restaurants.

Parts of the island were closed as well as some of the surrounding islands because they were flooded. This is due to the very high water level of the lake this year.

Toronto

We took a walk around the island. Some of us got our feet wet in the lake and we rested for a while lying on the grass in the shade. The truth is that in Toronto it was hot in the sun, but in the shade it was very pleasant.

Toronto Islands

At noon we took the boat back to Toronto and went to visit St. Lawrence Market.

It is the main public market in the city and on the upper floor there are many food places where you can get take-away food. You can eat sitting at tables on the terrace.

We chose some roast beef and Montreal smoked loin sandwiches that were to die for.

After a little rest we went to the Distillery District, an old whisky distillery (the largest in the world in 1860), now converted into a tourist area with little shops, cafes and places to have a drink. I’d say it’s a bit too hipster for my taste, but it’s great for a stroll.

Distillery District
what to do in Toronto

On our way back to our accommodation, we stopped for an ice cream at the Dutch Dreams ice cream parlour. It is a Dutch ice cream parlour with spectacular ice cream.

You can choose the type of cone, which they make on the spot, from a wide range of types.

They were spectacular and the small one is so big that it is a perfect substitute for a dinner.

Dutch Dreams Toronto

July 25th

The good stuff begins. Today we start our road trip through Ontario and Quebec. The first thing to do is to pick up the car at the rental office at Toronto airport. We take the direct route to Niagara Falls (123km). A coffee at Tim Horton’s and off we go.

One important note: 4 months after returning, I received a letter from the car rental company informing me that I had been charged for a toll road. It turns out that at some point we passed a stretch of electronic toll road, where there are no turnstiles and, without realising it, they take your number plate when you enter and exit. It was about 17€ (20$) between toll and the company’s management. You have to be careful.

Niagara Falls is a group of three waterfalls at the southern end of the Niagara Gorge, which straddles the border between the province of Ontario in Canada and the state of New York in the United States.

The largest, Horseshoe Falls, also known as Canadian Falls, straddles the international border of the two countries.

The other two, American Falls and Bridal Veil Falls, are within the United States. Bridal Veil Falls is separated from Horseshoe Falls by Goat Island and from American Falls by Luna Island, with both islands located in New York.

Niagara falls

As soon as we arrived we went to the “small” waterfall, which already impressed us. It was spectacular.

We went down to the boat that takes you almost under the falls. There was a long queue but it was quite fast because the boat was big.

When the boat opened, everyone ran to try to get a good spot on the top floor. But it’s better to be on the bottom floor on the left side. It’s not crowded and you have the same view.

They give you a mackintosh before you enter and you still get soaked. If you don’t come out completely wet, you haven’t got a good spot. It’s very, very fun, although it doesn’t last very long.

When we left, we went for a walk along the avenue to the big waterfalls. They are really spectacular, but if you want to take a good picture you almost have to get stuck in the crowd.

niagara falls
Niagara falls day trip
Niagara Falls

We quietly made our way up to the car, ate a small picnic lunch sitting under a tree in the shade and set off again. The destination: Tobermory on the Bruce Peninsula (383km). The accommodation was great, a charming little house in the woods on the shore of Lake Huron.

Tobermory

July 26th

We got up leisurely and had breakfast. We only had to cross the street to get to the small dock where the boat was leaving for Flowerpot Island.

Flowerpot Island is a small uninhabited island in Lake Huron, part of the Fathom Five National Marine Park.

Before going to the island, the boat gave us a tour of the lake, showing us a 17th century shipwreck and telling us a little of the history of the offshore islands.

Flowerpot Island

We arrive at Flowerpot Island. As soon as you get off, you are offered a rubbish bag because there are no rubbish bins on the island. It is (logically) forbidden to leave rubbish there.

We took the hiking route around the island. It is a beautiful place, very wooded. On the coast you can see rock formations in the shape of columns called flowerpots, which give the island its name.

Flowerpot Island

The entire hiking route takes about three hours to complete. You pass several points of interest such as a cave, a power station or a small museum in the lighthouse keeper’s house. At the end of the hike, a good swim in the lake, only for the brave, because even though it was the middle of July, the water was freezing cold.

Flowerpot Island

In the afternoon we get back on the boat for the return trip, which goes straight to Tobermory without any sightseeing. We get in the car and head for our next accommodation. We are in the city of Barrie (240km), near the entrance to the Algonquin Provincial Park.

Algonquin Provincial Park

There are plenty of activities to do in the park, although we focused on hiking.

The first was the Whiskey rapids trail of about 2 kilometres.

Just after entering the trail, as in almost all of them, there is a notebook where you write down your details in case you get lost.

It goes fairly quickly but has several drawbacks. The first is that in summer there are no rapids (I suppose they are formed with the thaw in spring) and the second is that the mosquitoes are a real cloud and are the size of sparrows. This was hell, neither the mosquito patches nor the liquid repellents we used were of any use. They are the ones we took to Vietnam and Japan, with great success. They got on us and on top of that they went through our clothes. To top it off, my partner had an allergic reaction and broke out in fierce hives.

Algonquin Provincial Park

A ten-minute drive from there, the two-kilometre Peck Lake Trail also awaited us. A very easy and quiet route along the Peck Lake. Luckily there were almost no mosquitoes on this one and it went very well. The trail is really beautiful.

Peck Lake

After this route we stopped for a picnic lunch at a roadside picnic area to get our strength back. I was very amused (as well as scared) to see bear-proof rubbish bins.

Algonquin Park

After the break it was time for the penultimate route: the Big Pines Trail, which was about 3 kilometres long and also quite easy. Luckily there were hardly any mosquitoes and it went very well. It goes through the deep forest where you can find gigantic and very old pine trees. I loved it.

The next one was not a hike as such, but the Algonquin Logging Museum. It is an open-air museum in the form of a mile-long trail that shows you how the region’s loggers lived and worked and the evolution of their work. It is really interesting and recommendable. It is also free, although you can leave a donation.

Algonquin Logging Museum
Algonquin Logging Museum

We finished our visit just as the museum was closing so we got back in the car and headed out of the park towards Kanata on the outskirts of Ottawa (396km from Barrie) where we had our next accommodation.

July 28th

We had to get up early again to cover the 106 km that separated us from today’s visit, Parc Omega, in the province of Quebec. It is a park of native animals in semi-freedom.

I’m not one of those who likes zoos. Neither aquariums, nor those kind of places where animals are confined for exhibition. But in this case they were local species and the enclosure where they move around is really gigantic (it took up almost the entire tank of the car).

You drive around in the car, with the radio tuned to a specific station where you are given explanations of the park and the animals come looking for you to give them some carrots that you have previously bought at the visitor centre.

Parc Omega

Halfway there is another visitor centre with souvenir shops and restaurants. There you can take a tractor-drawn shuttle to a farm with animals ideal for the little ones. There are also a couple of walking trails.

In the visitor centre there is also an exhibition of birds of prey and they also show you how the wolves live in the area.

A little further on, on the shore of a small lake, there is a picnic area where we had a picnic lunch. Then we took the trail along the edge of the lake, which is also a museum with totem poles of the indigenous people of the different regions of Canada.

Parc Omega

We spent the day at the park and had a very, very good time. It is certainly a visit that children will love, but also adults.

In the afternoon we set off desperate to find a petrol station as the car’s tank had been on reserve for some time and we still had 270 kilometres to go to our next accommodation: a charming little house very close to the lake in a village called Saint-Jean-des-Piles near the entrance to Le Mauricie National Park.

One important note: petrol in Canada is really cheap, about 0.80€ (0.97$) a litre.

We arrived in the village around 9pm. We left our stuff in the flat and went in search of a restaurant.

Nearby was the Bistro Le P’tit Canot. There we were told that the cook was ill and the kitchen was closed, which was impossible. However, there was a young man eating a plate of spaghetti at a table.

Canada

They told us that we could go to the restaurant Marina le St-Jean which closed at 10 o’clock. So we went there, by then it was almost 9.15. We asked if we could have dinner and they said yes. At that moment the cook came out barking saying that the kitchen was already cleaned and that they were no longer serving food. So we rushed to Shawinigan, the biggest town nearby, before the hypermarket that had opened closed, so we could buy something for dinner.

July 29th

Today it was time for sport. We headed for the entrance to Le Mauricie National Park.

At the visitor’s centre we were very well informed about the way to follow and what to do. The man there spoke French, English, Italian and Spanish, so he was perfect.

He told us that the people of Quebec like Spanish very much, that it is studied in school and that they love to practise it when they can. Later on we became aware of this. There we paid the corresponding fee which was 15$ (10.34€) per car.

We drove to Lake Wapizagonke. There we hired some canoes and went across the lake, 4.6km in total.

Lake Wapizagonke

When we reached the end we tied up the canoes. We smeared ourselves with mosquito repellent, as we had encountered a veritable plague of mosquitoes. Then we set off on the 3.4km hike to the Waber waterfalls. Fortunately, the higher you went, the less mosquitoes there were.

We reached the waterfalls and they were simply spectacular. Luckily they can only be reached by the method we used so there were not too many people and they are very well preserved.

There are pools in which you can get into to cool off from the oppressive humid heat and relax from the hike. Of course, the water was too cold.

Waber waterfalls

After a picnic lunch it was time to say goodbye to the waterfalls and start the long walk back. Another 3.4km of hiking and another 4.6km of canoeing back to the car.

On the way back, in the car, we stopped at the viewpoint “le passage” from where we could see an incredible panoramic view of Lake Wapizagonke and where there are explanatory panels about the formation of the area, flora, fauna etc…

Before leaving the park we had a great stroke of luck and a bear crossed in front of the car, without any hurry, so we were able to contemplate it quite calmly.

Lake Wapizagonke

July 30th

It’s time to return gradually to Toronto. First stop Ottawa. After travelling the 354 km from Saint-Jean-des-Piles we arrived in the capital of the country. We left our things in the flat in Gatineau.

Gatineau is a city located in Quebec, on the north bank of the Ottawa River, just opposite the capital of Canada.

We took the opportunity to have lunch in a nearby pub, the Brasserie Gainsbourg. A small craft beer, a poutine, fish and chips and burgers. It was all very tasty.

Now full of energy and after a downpour that seemed like the universal deluge, we headed for Parliament Hill.

Parliament Hill Ottawa

Just across the Ottawa Portage Bridge, we come to Christ Church Cathedral, Ottawa’s Anglican cathedral.

In 1824, the Reverend Amos Ansley began preaching in a school. By 1826 a small stone church was opened.

In 1841, construction began on a new church, which lasted two years until 1843, when it was consecrated and named Christ Church. By 1872 it was decided to demolish it in order to build a larger one. This was inaugurated in 1873.

On Easter Day 1897, it was formally announced that Christ Church would become the cathedral of the new diocese.

Christ Church Cathedral Ottawa

A little further on is the Supreme Court of Canada building. It was designed by Ernest Cormier and built between 1939 and 1946. It is worth noting that the foundation stone was laid by Queen Elizabeth, consort of King George VI and later known as the Queen Mother.

Next to it (more or less) is the Justice Building, designed by Thomas W. Fuller and built between 1935 and 1938.

Next to it is the Confederation Building, built between 1927 and 1931 in the Gothic style. It was designed by Richard Cotsman Wright and Thomas W. Fuller.

Confederation Building Ottawa

A little further on we come to the Canadian parliament building. Parliament is divided into three buildings. The Centre Block, opened in 1927, replacing the previous building from 1866, which went up in flames, contains the Senate and Commons chambers. At the front is the clock tower and at the rear is the library.

Canadian parliament building

The East Block (opened in 1866) and the West Block (opened in 1865) contain the offices of ministers and senators, as well as meeting rooms and other administrative spaces.

It can be visited inside by guided tours.

In the centre of the grounds is the Centennial Flame. It commemorates Canada’s centennial as a Confederation, lit on 1 January 1967.

The flame is surrounded by a fountain bearing the coats of arms of Canada’s 13 provinces and territories. The Nunavut Territory’s coat of arms was not originally there, as it was not created until 1999. Its coat of arms was installed on 13 December 2017.

We strolled around the area in peace and quiet as the days were beginning to show.

Next to Parliament Hill are the locks of the Ridau Canal. The canal connects Ottawa with Lake Ontario and the St. Lawrence River in Kingston. The name Rideau (French for curtain), is derived from the curtain-like appearance of the twin falls of the Rideau River where they join the Ottawa River.

Ridau Canal

The canal was opened in 1832 as a precautionary measure in case of war with the United States. Today it is used for recreational activities. The system’s locks are the oldest continuously operating locks in the Americas and open for navigation in mid-May and close in mid-October.

what to do in ottawa

Across the canal is the spectacular Château Laurier, a luxury hotel in a beautiful palatial building, designed in the French Gothic style. The hotel was inaugurated in 1912 and in 1980 was designated a national historic site.

Château Laurier Ottawa

We rested for a while and went over to the National Gallery of Canada to see the building from the outside, which was already closed. It is one of the largest art museums in North America by exhibition space.

The gallery was established in 1880 in the Second Supreme Court of Canada building. In 1911 it moved to the Victoria Memorial Museum building and in 1960 to the Lorne Building.

By 1988 it was finally moved to the current building, created by Israeli architect Moshe Safdie and built of glass and granite. The museum’s permanent collection includes more than 93,000 works by European, American, Asian, Canadian and indigenous artists. It also hosts temporary exhibitions.

National Gallery of Canada

In the square in front of the museum is The Maman statue, a sculpture of a spider by the French-American artist Louise Bourgeois, created in 1999, the same spider statue that can be found next to the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao, in the Tuileries Garden in Paris or in Tokyo’s Roppongi Hills.

Opposite is Notre-Dame Cathedral, a Roman Catholic basilica, the oldest and largest church in Ottawa and the seat of the city’s Catholic archbishop.

The Maman statue and Notre-Dame Cathedral in Ottawa

In 1832, the first wooden church was built on the site. It was demolished in 1841 to make way for a larger church. It was designed by Antoine Robillard and Father John Francis Cannon, who requested a neo-classical design.

In 1844 with the lower section completed, the Oblate Fathers took over the administration of the parish. They decided to redesign the church in a neo-Gothic structure, a style that was growing in popularity.

what to do in Ottawa

From there, exhausted, we strolled to ByWard Market. It is a shopping and entertainment district in the city centre. It includes the market buildings and open-air market along George, York, ByWard and William Street.

In 1827 the first market building was built along with a courthouse behind it on George Street, which were dismantled in 1842.

On Saturday 6 November 1848 two new buildings were opened. One in the Lower Town, built of timber. With space for market stalls on the ground floor and a well-lit upper floor to be used for public meetings. The one in the Upper Town became the town hall until 1878. And so various buildings evolved until the present day.

Ottawa

The area around the market is a place where you’ll find many restaurants and places to have a drink. This is also where the giant Ottawa sign is located for us tourists to take pictures. I found the Bywan market very hipster and touristy so we decided to have dinner in the flat and rest early.

July 31st

It’s another early start today. We had breakfast and set off for the city of Gananoque (167km). There we booked a cruise that toured the Thousand Islands, an archipelago of 1,864 islands.

It is divided by the border between Canada and the United States. It lies at the mouth of the St. Lawrence River at one end of Lake Ontario. The Canadian islands are in the province of Ontario and the US islands are in the state of New York.

The islands vary in size, ranging from 100 square kilometres for the largest, to the smallest, which contains only one small residence.

To count as one of the Thousand Islands, the island must have at least one square foot (0.093 m²) of land above water level year-round and support at least one living tree.

Hub island
Hub Island, the smallest island

We bought the two and a half hour option. It consisted of a tour around the most important islands (without disembarking on any of them) while they explained the history of the place and some curiosities.

Heart island
Heart Island

The excursion is very interesting and entertaining. The ship also has a bar where you can have a drink while you enjoy the tour.

By the time the tour was over it was a bit late so we decided to have lunch at the cruise company’s restaurant and then set off back to Toronto (290km).

August 1st

Today was a relaxing walk around Toronto. We went to Casa Loma although we decided not to go inside as it did not attract our attention.

It is a neo-Gothic style mansion and garden in downtown Toronto. It was built between 1911 and 1914 by architect E. J. Lennox, as a residence for the financier Sir Henry Pellatt.

Casa Loma

In 1924 the City of Toronto repossesses Casa Loma due to unpaid debts and taxes. Henry Pellatt goes bankrupt after the expropriation of his power companies and the decline of his real estate business. This was due to the First World War. After this, the house was abandoned for years.

In 1937 it was leased by the Kiwanis Club of West Toronto. Later, the Kiwanis Club of Casa Loma (KCCL) began to exploit the castle for tourism. They managed the house until 2011.

Casa Loma Toronto

Because of its unique architectural character in Toronto, Casa Loma has been a popular location for film and television shoots. It is also a popular location for wedding ceremonies.

After a tour of the house we went for a walk downtown past some university fraternities. We also bought some souvenirs.

On this day we ate at the Salad King restaurant, a well-known Thai restaurant, which was very good and not expensive.

With renewed strength we continue strolling through the centre until we reach Queen’s Park. It is an urban park in the city centre inaugurated in 1860 by Prince Edward of Wales. It is named after Queen Victoria.

The park is the site of the Ontario Legislative Building, which houses the Legislative Assembly of Ontario.

Construction of the Ontario Legislative Assembly Building began in 1886 to the design of architect Richard A. Waite and opened in 1893. It has undergone numerous extensions, most recently in 1968 and 1969.

Ontario Legislative Building
Ontario Legislative Building

There we sat on the grass and ate some Japanese cheesecakes that we had bought, which were to die for. We bought them in a shop called Uncle Tetsu’s Japanese Cheesecake very close to Dundas square.

After the break we continued walking past several faculties of the University of Toronto until we reached Kensington market. It is a distinctive multicultural neighbourhood in the centre of Toronto, with little shops and places to eat and drink something very hipster.

There we sat down for a drink, making time to go to the CN Tower where we had dinner at its revolving restaurant.

Toronto

The CN Tower is a 553-metre-high communications and observation tower. It was built between 1973 and 1976. Its name “CN” originally referred to Canadian National, the railway company that built the tower.

Today you can climb it to admire the incredible views of the city and to eat in its 360º restaurant, which slowly rotates to enjoy the view of Toronto. There are also various activities such as a walk around the outside at the top of the tower (how scary).

What can we say about the views from the CN Tower… They are simply spectacular and the sunset is amazing.

CN Tower

The dinner, apart from the view, was very, very good. It was modern cuisine but you don’t go hungry. You can choose a menu for 65$ (45€) or order from the menu, but the latter option is very expensive. The good thing is that it includes entrance to the tower.

CN Tower

After dinner we went back to the viewpoint of the tower, taking advantage of the fact that there were hardly any people around to enjoy the views for a while longer and take a good photo.

CN Tower

On leaving the tower we took a stroll around the surrounding area and took advantage of the late hour to take a photo at the Canada sign, which during the day is impossible due to the queues that form.

August 2nd

Last day in Canada. Quite exhausted from so many non-stop days, we left a little later for a last walk around Toronto. We bought the last souvenirs.

In the Art Gallery shop they gave us a collection of art books for the purchase we made. It was heavy as hell. With all that weight we continued walking around. We had breakfast at another Sunset grill (where we had breakfast on the first day) and went to look at the lake for a while at the Harbour front.

Toronto

We flew back with KLM. The plane was very old and the seats were very narrow, almost no leg room. The truth is that it was a really uncomfortable flight. However, the crew was very friendly and the food was very good.

We left around 11 pm and landed in Amsterdam at 12 noon. Two hours later the flight to Bilbao was leaving. This was also a KLM plane and it was one of the small ones with only two rows of seats. Incredibly, there was much more legroom and it was much more comfortable than the previous one.

what to do in Toronto

Balance of the trip

Canada impressed me. Its spectacular landscapes, its wildlife and, above all, the great kindness and friendliness of the Canadians. What impressed me most about them is the joy and the incredible treatment they have at work, where it seems that whatever it is, they love the job.

We plan to return to the country one day and visit the other coast, which must also be spectacular.

NEXT ENTRY

Busan: 15 cosas que ver y hacer

En esta entrada podrás conocer los lugares turísticos más recomendados de Busan y alrededores.

hoteles en Busán

01. Templo Haedong Yonggungsa (해동용궁사)

El Templo Haedong Yonggungsa es un templo budista situado en en Gijang-gun. Su lema es «Aquí se cumplirá al menos uno de tus deseos a través de tus sinceras plegarias».

Dice la leyenda que fue fundado por el gran monje Naong (1320–1376), que era el consejero del rey Gongmin. Mientras practicaba el ascetismo en el templo Bunhwang de Gyeongju, la nación fue duramente golpeada por una sequía que hizo que las cosechas murieran y la gente sufriera hambruna.

Gran Monje Naong
Gran Monje Naong

Un día, un dios del mar apareció en el sueño de Naong y dijo que si construían un templo al borde de la montaña Bongrae y rezaban allí, todas estas penurias desaparecerían.

Después de ese sueño, Naong visitó la zona donde ahora está el templo de Haedong Yonggung y vio que había una montaña delante y el mar detrás, lo que significa que si rezan por la mañana, reciben respuesta por la tarde.

Allí construyó un templo llamado Bomun y llamó a la montaña Bongrae. La palabra «Bongrae» significa algo misterioso y puro a lo que descienden ermitaños con gran entendimiento. La palabra «Bomun» significa el poder absoluto e ilimitado de la Gran Diosa Buda de la misericordia, llamada Gwanseumbosal en coreano.

Templo Haedong Yonggungsa (해동용궁사)

Fue destruido durante la invasión japonesa y reconstruido por el monje Ungang, del templo de Tongdo, en los años 30 del siglo XX.

Es uno de los pocos templos de Corea del Sur situados junto al mar y es muy popular para los turistas. La verdad es que es una maravilla visitarlo en ese remanso de paz.

Cómo llegar: Bus líneas 100, 139, 181, 1001.

Horario: de 4.30 a 19.00.

Precio: gratis.

VISITA IMPRESCINDIBLE

02. Jagalchi market (자갈치시장)

Jagalchi es el mercado de pescado más grande de todo Corea del Sur. Aquí podemos encontrar muchísimos puestos de pescado fresco, algunos realmente raros.

Tienes la opción de comprar el pescado en los puestos y te lo cocinan ahí mismo para que puedas comerlo sobre la marcha.

La mayor parte de los puestos están atendidos por mujeres conocidas como Jagalchi Ajumma. “Ajumma” significa mujer casada o de mediana edad en coreano.

Jagalchi market (자갈치시장)

Cómo llegar: Metro Jagalchi Station línea 1 // Bus paradaJagalchi Station, BIFF Square líneas 8, 9, 11, 26, 70, 87, 103, 134, 171, 1000, 1003 y 1004.

Horario: todos los días de 5.00 a 21.00.

Precio: gratis.

VISITA IMPRESCINDIBLE

03. BIFF square

Busán es la meca cinematográfica de Corea del Sur. Desde 1996 se celebra aquí el Festival Internacional de Cine de Busan (BIFF). Este es uno de los festivales de cine más importantes de Asia.

Uno de los eventos celebrados durante el festival es la impresión de manos de celebridades famosas del cine. Aquí podemos encontrar las huellas de muchas de las personalidades del mundo del cine, incluidos algunos españoles.

Desde que se celebra, el área de ha convertido repleto de tiendas, cines y puestos de comida.

BIFF square
BIFF square
Mano de Carlos Saura

Cómo llegar: Metro Jagalchi Station línea 1 // Bus paradaJagalchi Station, BIFF Square líneas 8, 9, 11, 26, 70, 87, 103, 134, 171, 1000, 1003 y 1004.

VISITA IMPRESCINDIBLE

04. Torre de Busan – Torre Diamante (다이아몬드타워)

La torre fue construida en el parque Yongdusan entre 1972 y 1973. Fue conocida como Torre de Busan desde su inauguración hasta 2021, en la que se renovó y fue renombrada como Torre Diamante (다이아몬드 타워).

Con sus 120 metros, desde ella podemos disfrutar de unas espectaculares vistas de Busan.

Torre de Busan

Cómo llegar: Bus parada Jungang-dong Community Service Center (중앙동주민센터) línea 508.

Horario: todos los días de 10.00 a 22.00.

Entrada a la torre de Busan

05. Templo Beomeosa (범어사)

El templo Beomeosa es un templo ubicado en la montaña Geumjeongsan y es la sede de la 14.ª Diócesis de la Orden Jogye del budismo coreano.

Fue fundado por el maestro Uisang en el año 18 del rey Munmu de Silla (678) como uno de los templos Hwaeomsipchal en Haedong. El Templo Beomeosa se estableció para hacer realidad en la tierra el mundo ideal del Avatamsaka Sutra, una vida limpia, pura y hermosa llena de ayuda mutua, comprensión y felicidad.

Se encuentra en las afueras de la ciudad enclavado en un entorno boscoso realmente bonito y es una delicia pasear por el.

Recorre con nosotros el templo y encuentra más información y fotos del templo en el diario de nuestro viaje.

Templo Beomeosa (범어사)

Cómo llegar: debemos tomar la línea 1 de metro hasta la parada Beomeosa. Salimos por la salida 5 y debemos tomar la calle diagonal que se encuentra a sus espaldas. A un par de minutos se encuentra la parada bien señalada al templo. Allí nos subimos al bus nº 90 que va directo al templo. Es válida la T-Money.

Horario: todos los días de 8.00 a 17.30.

Precio: gratis.

VISITA IMPRESCINDIBLE

06. Templo Seokbulsa (대한불교조계종 석불사)

Se trata de un templo moderno. Fue fundado por el monje Jo Il-hyeon en 1930 durante el período colonial japonés, siendo entonces el sacerdote principal.

Es un templo pequeñito pero lo realmente espectacular son las impresionantes esculturas de 16 Arhats y 29 estatuas de Buda talladas en la pared rocosa.

El camino es bastante tortuoso con una cuesta con una inclinación bastante fuerte en sus últimos 500 metros. Pero he de decir que merece totalmente la pena. De todas formas, yo subí y no estoy precisamente en la mejor de las formas. Eso si, hay que llevar calzado cómodo.

Encuentra más información y fotos sobre el templo Seokbulsa en el diario de nuestro viaje.

Templo Seokbulsa (대한불교조계종 석불사)

Cómo llegar: debemos tomar la línea 3 de metro hasta la estación Mandeog. Salimos por la salida 2 y a sus espaldas tomamos la calle Gumandeok-ro, unos 10 minutos después llegamos al desvío, que es una cuesta llamada Mandeokgogae-gil. Está pasado un pequeño puente peatonal que cruza la carretera sobre nuestras cabezas.

El trayecto en total desde la estación son unos 2 km.

Subida a Seokbulsa
Desvío a Seokbulsa

Horario: de 7.00 a 16.30.

Precio: gratis.

VISITA IMPRESCINDIBLE

07. Mercado Tradicional Haeundae (해운대 전통시장)

El mercado se extiende a lo largo de varias calles. En él podrás encontrar multitud de puestos de comida, sobre todo de pescados raros. Es un lugar perfecto para comer algo de pescado fresco recién llegado al puerto de Busan, el más importante de Corea del Sur.

Mercado Tradicional Haeundae (해운대 전통시장)

Cómo llegar: se encuentra muy cerca de la Playa Haeundae. Estación de metro Haeundae, línea 2.

Horario: todos los días de 9.00 a 22.00.

Visita guiada por Busan

08. Playa Haeundae (해운대해수욕장)

Haeundae es considerada la mejor playa de Busan y es realmente popular en verano. Es una playa de 1.5 km de largo de arena rubia que visitan más 10 millones de turistas al año.

En ella se organizan numerosos actos culturales como conciertos, festivales de esculturas de arena y mucho más.

Playa Haeundae (해운대해수욕장)

Cómo llegar: se encuentra muy cerca de la Playa Haeundae. Estación de metro Haeundae, línea 2.

09. Calle Gunam-ro

Esta es la calle que desemboca en la playa Heaeundae. Está repleta de sitios para comer y tiendas. También nos pareció muy curioso que habían muchos puestos de tarotistas. Cualquier momento es bueno para que te lean el futuro…

Gunam-ro

Cómo llegar: se encuentra muy cerca de la Playa Haeundae. Estación de metro Haeundae, línea 2.

10. Oryukdo Skywalk (오륙도 스카이워크)

Inaugurado en 2012, se trata de una pasarela de cristal desde la que podemos contemplar las islas Oryukdo. Éstas forman un archipiélago de cinco pequeñas islas rocosas y son consideradas de las mas bonitas de todo Corea del Sur.

El acceso al skywalk es gratuito y te dan una funda para los zapatos. Junto a él hay una oficina de información, un combini y una cafetería desde la que tomar algo disfrutando del precioso paisaje.

Oryukdo Skywalk (오륙도 스카이워크)
Islas Oryukdo

Cómo llegar: bus 24, 27 y 131. Parada Oryukdo Skywalk Bus Stop.

Horario: todos los días de 9.00 a 18.00.

Precio: gratis.

VISITA MUY RECOMENDABLE.

11. Templo Tongdosa (조계종 통도사)

Tongdosa (Salvación del mundo mediante el dominio de la verdad) es un templo principal de la Orden Jogye del budismo coreano y se encuentra en la parte sur del monte Chiseosan.

Realmente no se encuentra en Busan, sino en la ciudad de Yangsan, al norte de ésta.

Junto con el Templo Haeinsa y Songgwangsa forman las Tres Joyas y representa a Buda Gautama. Tongdosa es famoso porque en el templo no hay estatuas exteriores de Buda, ya que en Tongdosa se conservan los “verdaderos santuarios de Buda”

Templo Tongdosa (조계종 통도사)

Tongdosa fue fundado en el año 646 por el monje Jajang-yulsa tras regresar de China. El templo prosperó durante os periodos de Silla Posterior y Goryeo (918-1392), cuando el budismo era la religión del Estado. Durante la Era Joseon consiguió mantener su importancia.

Se dice que en su época de mayor esplendor, en el siglo XV, llegó a tener cientos de edificios y miles de monjes. Tan sólo la Sala Mahavira (principal sala de culto del Dharma) sobrevivió a la invasión japonesa del siglo XVI.

Como curiosidad, Beopdeung, la vela del templo, no se ha apagado nunca en más de 1.300 años.

Los domingos dan de comer gratis comida vegana de los monjes del templo.

Camino a Tongdosa

Cómo llegar: debemos tomar la línea 1 de metro hasta la parada final Nopo Dong. Allí cruzamos a la estación Busan Central Bus Terminal y tomar el bus hasta Tongdosa Sinpyeong Terminal.

Busan Central Bus Terminal
Busan Central Bus Terminal

El precio del billete es de 1.950₩ (1.37€) y tarda unos 40 minutos en llegar a la estación de Tongdosa. Se puede pagar con T-Money.

Horario: todos los días de 8.30 a 17.30.

VISITA IMPRESCINDIBLE.

12. Gamcheon Culture Village (감천문화마을)

Se trata de una zona residencial de Busan, un laberinto intrincado de callejuelas con mucho encanto. Hasta los años 80 del siglo XX era una aldea subdesarrollada con un nivel de ingresos bajo. Entonces se decidió redecorar casas y calles con una nueva apariencia a través de varios proyectos. Comenzando con un proyecto de arte llamado Dreaming Machu Picchu of Busan.

Hoy podemos encontrara casas de colores, numerosos murales y esculturas por todo el barrio. Es un bonito paseo para una tarde de verano.

13. Gwangalli Beach (광안리 해수욕장)

Es la playa más popular de Busan después de Haeundae. A lo largo de sus 1,4 km de longitud encontramos multitud de restaurantes y cafeterías.

Desde aquí observamos en todo su esplendor el puente Gwangan, que iluminan por las noches con diferentes colores según la estación del año.

Aquí también se concentran más de un millón de personas al año todos los meses de octubre. Es durante la celebración del famoso Festival Internacional de Fuegos Artificiales de Busan.

Gwangalli Beach (광안리 해수욕장)

Cómo llegar: línea 2 de metro hasta la estación Gwangan salida 5.

14. Fontana di trevi en el Lotte Department Store Centum City

El Lotte Department Store Centum City es un centro comercial de la cadena japonesa Lotte. Pero no es un centro comercial cualquiera. En el sótano, donde se encuentra la estación de metro encontramos una “réplica” de la Fontana Di Trevi de Roma.

Es algo curioso de ver si tienes tiempo pero realmente es una fuente que da aspecto de estar hecha con corchopán.

Busan

Cómo llegar: línea 2 de metro hasta la estación Centrum City.

Precio: gratis.

15. Templo Haeinsa y la Tripitaka coreana (해인사 성보박물관)

El templo Haeinsa realmente no está en Busan, está cerca de la ciudad de Daegu. Pero es una buena excursión desde Busan.

El templo fue fundado en el año 802 supuestamente por los monjes Suneung e Ijeong. Al regreso de un viaje a China sanaron a la esposa del Rey Aejang de su enfermedad. En agradecimiento a la misericordia del Buda, el rey ordenó la construcción del templo.

Templo Haeinsa y la Tripitaka coreana (해인사 성보박물관)

La Tripitaka Coreana (조계종 해인사) es la versión intacta más antigua y completa del canon budista en escritura china, sin errores ni erratas conocidos.

Está tallado en 81.350 bloques de madera, con 52.389.400 caracteres organizados en 1.514 títulos y 6.791 volúmenes. Está alojado en cuatro edificios llamados Janggyeong Panjeon, el depósito del Tripitaka Coreano, que están dispuestos en una disposición rectangular.

A la Tripitaka no se puede acceder pero las paredes de los pabellones son enrejados y se pueden ver las tablas desde fuera.

Tripitaka Coreana (조계종 해인사)

Cómo llegar: para llegar al tempo debemos tomar el tren KTX hasta la estación Dongdaegu. Allí la línea 1 de metro hasta la estación Seobu.

Aquí se encuentra la estación de bus de Seobu. Debemos comprar el billete en la taquilla (sólo efectivo) que cuesta 8.100₩ (5.66€) por trayecto y tarda unos 90 minutos.

Estación de Seobu

Para la vuelta debemos esperar en la marquesina en donde nos bajamos del bus hasta que pase un coche, del que se baja un muchacho que nos vende el billete (sólo efectivo). Un par de minutos después pasa el bus en el que nos subimos de vuelta a Daegu.

VISITA IMPRESCINDIBLE.

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Huesca

En esta entrada descubriremos todo lo que debemos saber sobre Huesca, la pequeña ciudad de la Comunidad Autónoma de Aragón.

Síguenos en Redes Sociales:

Huesca

Información general

Huesca, con unos 54.000 habitantes, capital de la provincia homónima en la Comunidad Autónoma de Aragón.

Breve historia de Huesca

Los primeros asentamientos de la ciudad datan del año 4000 a.C. del que se han encontrado cerámica y sílex de cronología neolítica. Se sabe también de la existencia de un poblado o campamento perteneciente a la Edad del Bronce, entre el 1800 y el 1500 a.C.

También se han encontrado restos de una necrópolis de la Edad del Hierro de entre el 400 a.C. al 100 a.C. Más tarde se ubicó aquí una ciudad celtíbera llamada Bolskan, ocupada por los suessetanos.

Hacia el 179 a.C. el pretor romano Aulo Terencio Varrón conquista la ciudad de Bolskan, respetando la ciudad pero renombrándola como Osca.

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En el 30 a.C. Osca adquiere la condición privilegiada de municipio romano, con la que todos sus habitantes pasaban a ser ciudadanos romanos de pleno derecho.

Entre los siglos I y IV se instala el cristianismo poco a poco. Su santo, San Lorenzo, es su patrón del que la tradición señala que sufrió el martirio en Roma en 258. Su segundo patrón, San Vicente de Huesca, sufrió martirio en Valencia entre los años 303 y 304.

En 476, con la desaparición del Imperio romano de Occidente, Osca pasa a formar parte del reino visigodo. Para el año 598 se realiza un Concilio de los obispos de la provincia Tarraconense. En 673 el rey visigodo Wamba se hospedó en Osca para sofocar la revuelta del duque Paulo.

Más tarde, en el año 719 cae bajo dominio musulmán siendo una de las ciudades más septentrionales de Al-Ándalus. Éstos cambian su nombre por el de Wasqa.

En 799, según los Anales del Reino de los Francos, se entregan a Carlomagno las llaves de la ciudad, en señal de su sumisión.

El dominio franco, sin embargo, no se hizo efectivo, y en los años 801, 811 y 812 fracasaron nuevos intentos carolingios de reconquista de la ciudad. Tras la desaparición del califato de Córdoba, Wasqa pasa a formar parte de la taifa de Zaragoza, gobernada sucesivamente por las dinastías tuyibí y hudí.

Huesca

En 1096 el rey Pedro I de Aragón conquista la ciudad derrotando a a Al-Musta’in II de Zaragoza en la batalla de Alcoraz y en 1191 se firma la Liga de Huesca entre los representantes de los reyes Alfonso II de Aragón, Sancho VI de Navarra, Alfonso IX de León y Sancho I de Portugal con el propósito de hacer la guerra al reino de Castilla, donde reinaba Alfonso VIII de Castilla.

Durante el siglo XVII llega un periodo de gran esplendor cultural a Huesca. Se construyen las iglesias de San Lorenzo y Santo Domingo, el edificio octogonal de la Universidad o la presa de Arguis. También hubo en ese siglo grandes personajes como Vincencio Juan de Lastanosa, mecenas de Baltasar Gracián y Francisco de Artiga.

Durante la Guerra de Sucesión en el siglo XVIII, El rey Felipe V abole el antiguo concejo oscense, nacido en la Edad Media y lo sustituye por un ayuntamiento similar a los castellanos. A su frente estaban un corregidor, por lo general militar, y doce regidores oscenses fieles a los Borbones.

hoteles en Huesca

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ENTRADA SIGUIENTE

Zaragoza

En esta entrada descubriremos todo lo que debemos saber sobre Zaragoza, la capital de la Comunidad Autónoma de Aragón.

Síguenos en Redes Sociales:

Zaragoza

Contenido:

Iati seguros

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Información general

Zaragoza es la capital de la Comunidad Autónoma de Aragón. Con una población de casi 700.000 habitantes, es la 5ª ciudad más poblada de España.

Breve historia de Zaragoza

La ciudad cuenta con más de dos mil años de historia. Siendo los documentos más antiguos del siglo VII a. C. con los restos de unos poblamientos del final de la Edad del Bronce.

Los primeros asentamientos urbanos datan del siglo III a.C.. Es una ciudad ibérica llamada Salduie que se identifica con el nombre de «Salduvia» en un texto de Plinio el Viejo.

Entre los años 25 y 12 a.C. se funda la ciudad romana de Caesaraugusta por Octavio Augusto. Lo hace con veteranos de las guerras cántabras. Poco después se convirtió en el centro urbano más importante del valle medio del Ebro.

Zaragoza
Teatro Romano de Caesaraugusta

En el año 452 fue conquistada por los suevos y en el 466 por los visigodos, quienes la incorporaron al reino de Tolosa.

En 714 fue ocupada por el sarraceno Musa ibn Nusair. Entonces se convierte en un centro musulmán importante llamado «Medina al-Baida Saraqusta» que, en 788 intenta ocupar Carlomagno aunque sin éxito.

Durante el siglo XI la ciudad musulmana alcanza su máximo esplendor durante el reinado de Al-Muqtadir (1046-1081). Este amplió su reino con la anexión de la taifa de Tortosa y la taifa de Denia y sometió a vasallaje a la de taifa de Valencia. Es entonces cuando se construye el espectacular Palacio fortificado de recreo de la Aljafería.

En el año 1118, Alfonso I el Batallador conquista Zaragoza y pronto se convierte en la capital del Reino de Aragón, siendo la sede en la que se coronan los reyes de la Corona de Aragón.

La unión dinástica de la Corona de Castilla y la de Aragón la transformó en una ciudad más de la monarquía de los Austrias.

Hoteles en Zaragoza

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ENTRADA SIGUIENTE

Granada: a walk through the Albaicín

The Albaicín or Albayzín, situated on the hill of San Cristóbal and facing the hill of the Sabika. On this hill is where the Alhambra is located. It is the oldest quarter of Granada. It is during the Nasrid period (1238-1492) that it acquired its greatest importance.

Today it still maintains the urban layout of that important period. It has an intricate network of narrow alleyways that make you get lost in them, giving you a wonderful experience for your senses.

We begin our visit in the central Plaza Nueva. Despite its name, it is the oldest square in the city. This is where the Al-Hattabin bridge over the Darro River was located during the Muslim occupation.

Attached to it is the Plaza de San Ana. It was built in 1878. Due to the continuous flooding caused by the overflowing of the Darro River, it was decided to vault it, resulting in both squares.

The most notable building in the square is the Palacio de la Chancillería. It was built by order of Charles I between 1531 and 1587 to house the Royal Chancery of Granada. The building was designed by the architects Francisco del Castillo el Mozo and Diego de Siloé.

Palacio de la Chancillería

The building is today the High Court of Justice of Andalusia, Ceuta and Melilla.

Almost at the far end is the Pilar del Toro (Bull’s Pillar). Its name comes from the bull’s head that occupies the central place of the fountain, from whose nose two water spouts emerge. It is the last work of the architect Diego de Siloé and dates from 1559.

Pilar del Toro

At the end of the square, parallel to the river Darro, is the church of San Gil and Santa Ana. It was built in the Mudejar style in 1537 by the architect Diego de Siloé. It stands on the site of the former Almanzora mosque. The tower was built between 1561 and 1563 by the architect Juan Castellar.

Iglesia de San Gil y Santa Ana

From here we take the Carrera del Darro, one of the most beautiful walks in Granada. Although it is somewhat uncomfortable due to the large number of people and the traffic of taxis and buses.

The Carrera del Darro dates back to the 17th century. It was built after the destruction of part of the wall that was located here, due to the explosion of a powder magazine next to the church of San Pedro and San Pablo in 1590.

About 100 metres from the start of the walk, you’ll find a perfect spot for instagramers. There you’ll see the kids taking turns to take the perfect photo. This is the Cabrera Bridge. It was built in the 17th century during the remodelling of the area. It is named after Don Pedro Cabrera y Jaques de Mansilla, commander of Ocaña, who was lieutenant of the Generalife.

Carrera del Darro Granada

A little further on we find the Espinosa Bridge, also from the 17th century. It owes its name to the Espinosa family, who had properties in the area since the beginning of the 16th century.

Granada

If we continue on, we soon come across El Bañuelo. These are Arab baths of uncertain origin. On the one hand, it is believed that they date from the 11th century. During the second stage of Zirid construction corresponding to the reigns of Badis and Abd Allah (1038-1090).

El Bañuelo

Others date it to the 12th century. It was built during the reign of the Zirid King Badis and was integrated into the eastern boundary of the district of the Qawraya castrense (military qawraya). It was within the walls of the al-Qasaba al-Qadima or Old Citadel.

El Bañuelo Granada

The Hammam al-Jawza or Walnut Bath has been known since the end of the 19th century. It is known by the diminutive name of Bañuelo because it is smaller than the royal baths of the Alhambra.

El Bañuelo

Nowadays it can be visited. Price: 5€ with the ticket “Monumentos Andalusíes”. This also includes the Dar Al-Horra Palace, El Corral del Carbón and the Moorish House.

what to do in Granada

Opposite the Bañuelo, we find the remains of the Puerta de los Tableros. It is also known as the Gate of the Gates. It was built in the 11th century under the rule of the Zirid dynasty. Over it was a bridge that connected the Alcazabas Cadima and Gidida with the fortress of the Alhambra. This was the eastern boundary of Zirid Granada.

Puerta de los Tableros

A little further on is the Convent of Santa Catalina. It was founded in 1520. Although its construction was completed in 1540 thanks to the support of the widow of Don Hernando de Zafra. The church, in Mudejar style, was rebuilt in 1678 after being destroyed by a raging fire.

The convent can be visited for a €1 entrance fee.

On one side of the convent, in Calle Concepción de Zafra, is the Casa de Zafra (House of Zafra). It is a 14th century Nasrid house. It belonged to a family of Andalusian aristocrats and has maintained its Moorish essence, present in the original structure and the pool in the courtyard.

The Casa de Zafra houses the Albaicín Interpretation Centre. It also houses a series of exhibitions and interactive panels that invite visitors to delve into the origins of the Albayzín neighbourhood.

The entrance fee is 3€. On Sundays it is free.

Casa de Zafra

We return to the Carrera del Darro. On the other side of the convent is the Archaeological and Ethnographic Museum of Granada.

The museum is housed in the Casa de Castril, a Renaissance-style palace built in 1539 for the family of Hernando de Zafra, secretary to the Catholic Monarchs who played an active role in the reconquest of the city from the Muslims and in their Capitulations. It was the work of the architect Sebastián de Alcántara, one of Diego de Siloé’s most outstanding disciples.

Archaeological and Ethnographic Museum of Granada

The palace is the subject of a legend from the Arab period that refers to a mysterious lady in white who appears from time to time, the result of a misunderstanding between the father of a beautiful girl who lived in the building and her supposed lover, which led to the father’s fury and subsequently to her hanging and walling herself up on the side balcony of the building. On this blind balcony, one can read a slogan that reads: ‘Waiting for heaven’s justice’, which could refer to ‘waiting for heaven’s justice’, probably related to the words that the supposed lover uttered before he was hanged.

Opposite the museum is the church of San Pedro and San Pablo, built in Mudejar and Renaissance style between 1559 and 1567, by the architect Juan Maeda.

church of San Pedro and San Pablo Granada

We continue onwards and arrive at the Paseo del Padre Manjón (Father Manjon walk), better known as the Paseo de los Tristes (walk of the sad), due to the fact that, in the past, funeral processions used to pass through here on their way to the cemetery. It was built in 1609 and by then it was called Paseo de Guadix and was the busiest area of the city until the 19th century.

At the beginning of the walk, we come across the Casa de las Chirimías. Built at the beginning of the 17th century in the Baroque style as a lookout tower, from which the authorities presided over the festivities and public events held on the esplanade of the Paseo de los Guadix.

Casa de las Chirimias

The house is located next to the bridge of the Chirimías, built between the 17th and 18th centuries, replacing the previous one from the Muslim period. The bridge crosses over to a building with a rather peculiar history: the “Hotel Reuma”.

It is actually called Hotel Bosques de la Alhambra and dates from the early 20th century. It is located in the middle of the Sabika hill, at the foot of the spectacular Comares Tower. It was built in 1908 by the architect Manuel Antonio Reyes Clavero on the grounds of the Carmen de Santa Engracia, which was owned by his wife…

It opened in 1910 and was only open for two years, as it was located in a shady area, with no sunlight at any time of the day and the humidity of the river, which made it damp and cold for the clients, uncomfortable as balls. Hence the unofficial name of Hotel Reuma.

The truth is that it is a somewhat phantasmagoric vision that I love.

Hotel reuma

In the centre of the promenade we find the Fountain of the Paseo de los Tristes, built in the Baroque style in 1609.

We turn off a little and walk up Calle Horno del Oro. Here we come across the Casa Horno de Oro (Gold Furnace House). It is a small Nasrid house.

The whole building revolves around a quadrilateral courtyard centred by a small pool and framed on its north and south sides by two porticoes with Nasrid columns behind which the main rooms open.

The house originally consisted of a single storey. A first floor was added in the 16th century. This became the main family area where the women’s and children’s rooms were located.

Casa del horno de oro

After the expulsion of the Moors, the house was a corral of neighbours until the 20th century, when it was acquired by the state and restored.

We now head towards the end of the walk. There we have two options: the first is to cross the Aljibillo bridge or Qantarat Ibn Rasiq in Arabic. Originally built in the 11th century by order of Zawi Ibn Ziri, it was completely destroyed in the floods of 1861 and was rebuilt on the spot.

From the end of the bridge, before crossing it, we have spectacular views of the Alhambra.

Alhambra

Cross the bridge and turn right at the end of the path, taking the path to the Fuente del Avellano (Hazelnut Tree Fountain). It is a peaceful path through the hills, which runs through the valley of Valparaiso, between monoliths with classical legends, for about 1 km, ending at the Fuente del Avellano.

According to researchers, the fountain was the famous Fountain of Tears of the Arab poets, whose source springs on the slope of the Silla del Moro (Moor’s chair).

The Fuente del Avellano has a simple pillar, made of Sierra Elvira marble, which is attached to the cistern, made of masonry and half-buried in the hillside.

Its façade is inscribed with a legend, engraved on 17th century stone, which reads, with difficulty:

“Dn. Fernando septimo Q.D.G. being Captain General of this Province the Exmo. Mr. Dn. José Ygnacio Albarez Campana and Corregidor of this Cap. Mr. Marques de Altamira, the City of Granada made this Work commissioning for it to the twenty four of its Town Hall D. José Marin. Year of 1827”.

We retrace our steps and cross the Aljibillo Bridge again and continue straight on up the steep Cuesta del Chapiz.

Just at the beginning of the slope, on the right hand side, you will see the Palacio de los Córdova. It was built between 1530 and 1592 in the Placeta de las Descalzas, for Luis Fernández de Córdova, Alférez Mayor of Granada and Commander of Villanueva de la Fuente.

what to do in Granada

In 1919, after passing into the hands of Ricardo Martín Flores, it was demolished to build the Gran Capitán Theatre on its site; the remains of historical-artistic value were preserved on the “Villa María” estate, on the road to Pulianas.

In the 1960s, and faced with the possibility of the remains being moved to Cordoba, Mayor Manuel Sola convinced the Duke of Montellano, married to Hilda Fernández de Córdova, to rebuild the palace on its current site.

In 1983 the Granada City Council acquired the Palacio de los Córdova to house the Municipal Archives, which opened its doors to the public at the beginning of August 1984.

We continue going up and up until we reach the Plaza del Salvador. There we find the Aljibe del Salvador, dating from the Nasrid period, which collects the water from one of the branches of the Aynadamar irrigation channel, whose source is located in Fuente Grande, in Alfacar.

We also find the Church of El Salvador, built in Mudejar style between 1565 and 1605 by the architect Juan de Maeda, and built on the site of the old Great Mosque of Granada.

Church of El Salvador

If we continue walking, on the right side of the parish church we find the Callejón de la Botica, which leads to Plaza Larga, the nerve centre of the Albayzín, with numerous terraces where you can have a drink.

Next to the square is the Arco de las Pesas or New Gate, one of the first access points of the Zirid wall, which was then called Bab Al Ziyada (Gate of the Widening). The name Arco de las Pesas (Arch of Weights) comes from the fact that, in the 16th century, tricked weights confiscated from swindling merchants in the area were displayed here.

The name Puerta Nueva (New Gate) is believed to come from a Muslim superstition, which said that this gate would be the place through which the Christians would enter to take the city of Granada and the kingdom would be lost forever. For this reason, the gate was closed until 1573, in the Christian era.

Arco de las Pesas

Cross the gate and turn left. We take the alley of San Cecilio, which leads directly to the viewpoint of San Nicolás.

The first thing we come across is the rear façade of the Church of San Nicolás, built in 1525 in the Mudejar style, on the ruins of the Azitini mosque.

To one side we find the Aljibe de San Nicolás, from the Christian period, although it is believed to have been built on the ruins of a Muslim cistern from the 11th century, attached to the Azitini mosque.

Aljibe de San Nicolas / Albaicín

And now we come to the jewel in the crown of the city, with the permission of the Alhambra, the viewpoint of San Nicolás (Mirador de San Nicolás).

Located in the highest part of the Alcazaba Qadima of the Zirid dynasty, next to the old mosque, of which only the cistern remains, it was at that time the parade ground. It was actually surrounded by buildings that were gradually cleared until it acquired its present dimensions around the middle of the 19th century.

From here we have the most classic image of tourism in Granada: the imposing Alhambra and the Generalife with the Sierra Nevada in the background. The sunset on a clear day can be magical.

US President Bill Clinton said during his visit to Granada in 1997 that it was the most beautiful sunset he had ever seen. And Grenada made good use of those words to project its tourism abroad.

Alhambra
Alhambra and the Generalife from the viewpoint
Alhambra
Alhambra and Generalife dressed in white
Snow in Granada

Next to the viewpoint of San Nicolás is the current Great Mosque of Granada. It was inaugurated in 2003, being the first mosque in Granada since 1492, after more than 500 years.

From the mosque we can contemplate views similar to those of the San Nicolás viewpoint, from its beautiful gardens.

Great Mosque of Granada
Great Mosque of Granada

We retrace our steps back to the Arco de las Pesas but, instead of crossing it, we take Aljibe de la Gitana street, which leads to the Aljibe del Rey, the largest of Granada’s Muslim cisterns, dating from the 11th century and with a capacity of 300 m3. Today it is integrated into the Carmen del Rey, the headquarters of the AguaGranada Foundation.

Aljibe del Rey
Aljibe del Rey

To Be Continued…

Lithuania 2012 (III): we visit Kaunas and return to Vilnius

Today we travel to Kaunas, Lithuania’s second city but with a lot of charm.

August 3rd

At 13.50 we left by bus for Kaunas. Three hours later we would arrive at Kaunas station. The ticket cost us 42.30 Litas (12.25€).

Kaunas

Kaunas is located at the confluence of the Niemen and Neris rivers; it is the second most populous city in the country after Vilnius and was the capital during the first Republic of Lithuania between 1920 and 1939.

The city was founded in 1361 and became the most populous city of the Trakai Voivodeship during the Grand Duchy of Lithuania. In 1795 the Russians occupied the city and shortly afterwards it was attacked by Napoleon’s troops.

The 1918 declaration of independence made Kaunas the provisional capital of the Republic of Lithuania, as Vilnius was under Russian and later Polish control.

Kaunas
Views from the accommodation

By the late 1930s it had become Lithuania’s most populous city, but during World War II it suffered first the Soviet invasion (1940-1941) and, after a brief civil uprising, the German occupation (1941-1944).

The Nazi army carried out a holocaust of the Jewish population with the establishment of the Kovno Ghetto, leaving more than 30,000 dead. The Soviets recaptured the city in 1944 to establish the Lithuanian Soviet Socialist Republic. At the end of the war the capital was moved to Vilnius, now under Lithuanian sovereignty.

From the bus station we walked to the flat, about 2km away. This time we chose a tourist rental, a rather elegant flat that cost 49€ per night.

As I had arrived a bit sick, we decided to rest a bit. We went out for dinner at a nearby supermarket and went to bed early.

August 4th

We get up early and head out onto the streets. After breakfast we go to Laisvės Alėja (Freedom Avenue), a well-known pedestrian boulevard with many shops and restaurants. We stroll until we reach Šv. Arkangelo Mykolo bažnyčia (Church of St. Michael the Archangel).

The church of St. Michael the Archangel is a Roman Catholic church built between 1891 and 1895 in Neo-Byzantine style when Kaunas was part of the Russian Empire. It was originally an Orthodox church serving Russian troops stationed in the city, although it was planned to be a Roman Catholic church before the January 1831 uprising.

The church was integrated into the Kaunas Fortress. As was customary for military churches at the time, the construction of Kaunas Cathedral was financed in equal parts by the Military Ministry and by donations from military men.

Šv. Arkangelo Mykolo bažnyčia (Church of St. Michael the Archangel)

After the fall of the Kaunas Fortress during World War I, the Germans took the bells from the church and took them to Germany. The church remained closed until 1919.

In the inter-war period, the cathedral became a Roman Catholic church of the Lithuanian garrison in Kaunas. During the Soviet era it was used as an art gallery, and after its dissolution it resumed its Roman Catholic ecclesiastical activity.

From here we head to the Žaliakalnio funikulierius (Žaliakalnis funicular), the oldest funicular in Lithuania built in 1931. It runs a distance of 142 metres to the Basilica of the Resurrection of Christ. It quickly became a very popular means of transport, carrying some 5 million passengers between 1950 and 1970.

Žaliakalnio funikulierius (Žaliakalnis funicular)

We take the funicular, which costs 1 Lita per person (€0.30), up to Kauno Kristaus prisikėlimo bažnyčia (Basilica of the Resurrection of Christ), a monumental Roman Catholic church consecrated in 2004.

After Lithuania regained its independence in 1918, the idea of building a church as a national shrine and a symbol of gratitude to God for the freedom regained in the city of Kaunas, then the temporary capital of Lithuania, began to gain ground.

In 1922, the city of Kaunas gave the land for the construction and the design of the engineer Karolis Reisonas was chosen in a competition, and in 1933 the building permits were granted.

Kauno Kristaus prisikėlimo bažnyčia (Basilica of the Resurrection of Christ)

The cornerstone of the church, brought from the Mount of Olives in Jerusalem, was solemnly blessed and laid in the foundations in 1934. Construction proceeded apace until the Soviet Union occupied the country, when the building was confiscated and converted into a radio factory. The building was then remodelled, with three storeys in the side aisles and five in the central nave. The crosses were removed and the chapel demolished.

In 1990, the Lithuanian Soviet Socialist Republic forced the reconstructed building to be returned to its original form, but it was returned in a deplorable and dilapidated state.

Reconstruction then began, with some changes to the original plans. But the work was hampered by a lack of funds. It was not until 1997 that the work was accelerated thanks to contributions from the Lithuanian government.

The church was consecrated in 2004 and the work was finally completed in 2005.

Kauno Kristaus prisikėlimo bažnyčia (Basílica de la Resurrección de Cristo)

The building is really curious although it doesn’t look like a church. We paid 8 Litas (2.30€) each to enter. The interior is very simple and sober and you can go up to the terrace to see the spectacular views from the place.

Kauno Kristaus prisikėlimo bažnyčia (Basílica de la Resurrección de Cristo)
Kauno Kristaus prisikėlimo bažnyčia (Basílica de la Resurrección de Cristo)

We walked down instead of taking the funicular and went to the building of the Vytauto Didžiojo Karo Muziejus (Vytautas the Great War Museum).

In the same building we found the Nacionalinis M. K. Čiurlionio dailės muziejus (National Museum of Art). Apart from the museums, on the square in front of the museum is the Freedom Monument, which was erected in 1928 but destroyed during Stalin’s regime. It was reinstalled in 1989.

There is also the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and Kauno kariljonas (Kaunas Carillon), with its 49 bells ringing since 1956, and concerts are held every Saturday and Sunday at 16:00.

Tomb of the Unknown Soldier Kaunas
Tomb of the Unknown Soldier

Close by is the Devil’s Museum (Velnių muziejus). A famous Lithuanian painter, public figure and professor Antanas Žmuidzinavičius (1876 – 1966) started to assemble this collection.

The museum contains a collection of more than 3,000 devils: creations of fine and applied arts, souvenirs and masks not only from Lithuania but from about 70 countries.

It was time for lunch. We decided to have lunch at a place on the way to the old town called Hesburger, a Finnish hamburger chain that is all over Lithuania. The burgers were quite good and it was quite cheap.

After lunch we went to the bank of the Niemen river. There we came across Nemuno Sala (Nemuno Island), an island about 1.5 km long that was undeveloped until 1917, when the German army built a harbour.

In the inter-war period it served as a winter harbour and recreational facilities were built. The harbour was in operation until 1970. Today it is a beautiful recreational park in which the ‘Algirio Arena, the largest sports hall in the Baltic States, is located. It opened on 18 August 2011 with a match between the Lithuanian and Spanish basketball teams.

As a basketball lover, I had to visit it as it was here that Spain won Eurobasket 2011.

Nemuno Sala (Nemuno Island)
Nemuno Sala (Nemuno Island)

We leave the island and head to the old town of Kaunas. We stroll along Vilniaus gatvė (Vilnius Street), the oldest street in the city, which is part of the old medieval road to Vilnius. Here we find numerous historic buildings, built by the wealthy class of the city.

On this street you will find many shops and terraces where you can have a good Lithuanian beer… which we did.

Vilniaus gatvė (Vilnius Street)

One of the most notable buildings on the street is the Cathedral Basilica of St. Peter and Paul (Kauno Šv. apaštalų Petro ir Povilo arkikatedra bazilika), a Roman Catholic cathedral basilica dedicated to the apostles St. Peter and St. Paul.

The exact date when the first Gothic-style church was built is unknown, but it is first mentioned in written sources in 1413. The construction work was not completed until 1624.

The church was badly damaged in 1655 during the Russo-Polish War but was rebuilt in 1671 with the addition of some Renaissance features. During a raging fire on the roof in 1732, both towers were destroyed and only one was rebuilt.

The present appearance of the building is the result of a new renovation in 1800. The church was promoted to cathedral status by Pope Leo XIII in 1895 and received the title of Basilica in 1926, when Pope Pius XI reorganised the Diocese of Samogitia into the Metropolitan Archdiocese of Kaunas.

Kauno Šv. apaštalų Petro ir Povilo arkikatedra bazilika

Motiejus Valančius, the Bishop of Samogitia, who was also a historian and one of the best-known Lithuanian writers of the 19th century, was buried in a crypt of the church in 1875.

On the side façade facing Vilniaus gatvė is the mausoleum of Jonas Mačiulis – Maironis, a Lithuanian poet, professor and theologian, considered one of the leading figures of Lithuanian literature in the late 19th century.

Kaunas

A little further on from the church we come to Kauno Rotušės aikštė, the town hall square. Here we find (logically) the town hall (Kauno rotušė).

The construction of the town hall began in 1542 as a single-storey building with an unpainted façade and vaulted cellars. In the 16th century, the first floor and the eight-storey tower to the east of the building were built.

By 1638 it was built in the Renaissance style, and between 1771 and 1775 a second restoration was carried out by the architect J. Matekeris.

In the following centuries, it was used for various functions, such as an orthodox church, a munitions depot and the residence of the tsars.

Kauno rotušė

Between 1869 and 1944 it was used as a theatre. After the Second World War it became the municipal archive.

The building was restored between 1968 and 1973 under a project by the architect Žibarts Simanavičius and became the town hall. Today its functions are mainly weddings, but it is also the place where the authorities are received and official ceremonies are held.

On the town hall square is also the Church of St. Francis Xavier (Kauno šv. Pranciškaus Ksavero (Jėzuitų) bažnyčia).

It was built by the Jesuits in 1666 and consecrated in 1722. On the same site, they previously built their first residence in Kaunas in 1642 and established a chapel in the House of Perkūnas in 1643.

By 1824 the tsar handed the church over to the Orthodox Church, but a century later it reverted to the Jesuits. During the Soviet occupation, it was converted into a technical school and sports centre. After independence in 1989, it was once again in Jesuit hands.

Kauno šv. Pranciškaus Ksavero (Jėzuitų) bažnyčia

After a short evening stroll around the area, we looked for a place to have dinner and went to rest. Last day in Kaunas tomorrow.

August 5th

We get up at a reasonable hour, have breakfast and go to the street.

We return to Vilniaus gatvė, a street you will walk along many times. After a coffee, we head to Kaunas Castle (Kauno pilis).

Located on the bank of the Nemunas River near the confluence of the Neris River in the Confluence Park. It is believed to have been built in the mid-14th century in Gothic style.

By 1362, the castle was besieged by the Teutonic Order. At that time, the castle walls were more than 11 metres high. Inside was a garrison of about 400 Lithuanian soldiers commanded by Vaidotas, son of Duke Kęstutis.

After three weeks, the Knights managed to breach the castle walls and shortly afterwards the castle was taken. Of the 400 soldiers defending the castle, 36 survived. On Easter Sunday 1362, the knights celebrated a mass in the castle to commemorate their victory.

Kauno pilis

In 1384, the Lithuanian army besieged the castle and took it back. After the Battle of Grunwald, Kaunas Castle lost its strategic military importance and was used as a residence.

During the 16th century, the castle was strengthened and adapted to new defensive purposes by building an artillery bastion near the round tower.

The castle was used as a prison in the 18th century; later, the Russian administration granted permission for the construction of houses on the castle’s territory, which resulted in significant damage to the castle itself.

Kauno pilis

After that, the castle was abandoned for decades until 1960. A museum was opened in the round tower, but was soon moved due to the poor condition of the tower.

The castle is restored between 2010 and 2011. A branch of the Kaunas Museum is established there. On 14 July 2018 a new sculpture “Freedom Warrior” (representing Vytis) was erected near the castle.

Opposite the castle is the Church of St. George the Martyr (Kauno Šv. Jurgio Kankinio (pranciškonų) bažnyčia). It is a church built in Gothic style between 1492 and 1502.

Kaunas

The church was badly damaged during the Napoleonic Wars. During the Soviet occupation the church was converted into a medicine warehouse.

We turn back towards the centre. After a nice walk and a well-deserved and delicious Lithuanian beer, we enter St. Peter and Paul’s Cathedral. We had not had time the day before.

We continue strolling through the beautiful historic centre of the city. We reach Perkūno namas (House of Perkūnas). This is one of the most beautiful Gothic buildings in the city. It was built in the 15th century by Hanseatic merchants and its purpose is not really known.

There is a legend about a sculpture of the deity Perkūnas found on a wall of the building, about priestesses guarding the eternal fire; however, the extensive collection of artefacts found by researchers suggests that it was a commercial office belonging to Hanseatic merchants.

Kaunas

Perkūnas is one of the most important deities in the Baltic pantheon. In Lithuanian and Latvian mythology he is the god of thunder, rain, mountains, oaks and the sky.

Today, the House of Perkūnas belongs to the Kaunas Jesuit order. The Perkūnas House houses an exhibition on the life and works of Adomas Mickevičius, an art exhibition and a concert hall.

It can be visited for a fee of €3.

A little further down is the Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary – Vytautas the Great (Vytauto Didžiojo bažnyčia). It is the oldest early Gothic monument in Kaunas. The exact date of its construction is unknown.

According to the Jesuit historian Albert Vijūkas Kojelavičius, Vytautas the Great built this church in 1400. Soon after, the Vilnius Franciscan monks began to guard it.

The first record of the church dates back to documents from 1439 and refers to a small wooden church. Shortly afterwards it was replaced by the present brick church. The tower was built between the end of the 15th and the beginning of the 16th century.

Kaunas

The church was spared three major fires in the city (1603, 1624 and 1668). But it was devastated during the Russian invasion in 1655. It was restored in 1669.

In 1812, after the French invasion, it became an arms depot and, after their departure, the building was set on fire. It was restored again in 1819.

During the First World War, the German army used it for storage. After their departure, the building was again badly damaged.

In 1919 it was returned to the Catholic Church and restored again. On 15 August 1920 the church was consecrated by the prelate Aleksandras Jakštas-Dambrauskas.

The church is located on the banks of the river Niemen, so we walk to the Confluence Park (Santakos parkas).

The Confluence Park (Santakos parkas) is a large 12-hectare park at the confluence of the Nemunas and Neris rivers. Here you will find Kaunas Castle, sports facilities and even a monument to Pope John Paul II.

Kaunas

It’s a perfect place to take a stroll at sunset and sit on the grass and relax for a while. And even go fishing.

After a well-deserved rest we went on our way to a nearby shopping centre called Akropolis. There we found a place called Čili Pica where we had a quiet dinner.

After dinner we went to sleep, as we had to get up early. We took the bus back to Vilnius.

Back to Vilnius

August 6th

Last day in Lithuania. We took an early bus to Vilnius.

As soon as we arrived in the city we went straight to the hotel, which was opposite the Vilnius Cathedral. This time we chose the Amberton Hotel. A 4 star hotel that cost us 61€ a night with breakfast, which we booked as a picnic as we were leaving the hotel at 3am.

Find the best hotel at the best price in Vilnius with Agoda.

Hotels in Vilnius / Lithuania

The truth is that the hotel, for a 4-star hotel, was pretty dingy, although it had a good view.

Vilnius
Views from the room

We left our things and went to do the last Lithuanian sightseeing. A stroll along Pillies Street, where there was a craft market. There we bought some souvenirs.

Then we go on our way to see a sculpture of the musician Frank Zappa… unique in the world…

And from here we go down to Gedimino Avenue, the main avenue of the city. A large shopping street closely related to the world of theatre and with numerous government buildings.

Here we had some hamburgers for lunch from a fast food chain…

The Lithuanian National Theatre of Dramatic Art (Lietuvos nacionalinis dramos teatras) is located on this street.

The theatre opened on 6 October 1940 with a performance of the play “Hope” by the Dutch playwright Herman Heijermans. At that time it was located in Basanavicius Street. The theatre moved to its current location in 1951.

The sculpture Celebration of the Muses (Mūzų šventė) by sculptor Stanislovas Kuzma, which crowns the main entrance of the theatre, has become the symbol of the National Drama Theatre of Lithuania. These figures represent the muses of Drama (Calliope), Comedy (Thalia) and Tragedy (Melpomene).

Lietuvos nacionalinis dramos teatras

This street is also home to the Mažasis Theatre (Mažasis teatras) and the Lithuanian Academy of Music and Theatre (Lietuvos muzikos ir teatro akademija).

This avenue is a beautiful promenade lined with stately buildings.

Mažasis teatras

Paseando paseando llegamos de nuevo a la calle Pillies. Allí tomamos nuestra última cena en el primer local que descubrimos de Čili Pica y temprano a la cama para madrugar.

Madrugón exagerado. Bajamos a recepción a recoger el desayuno y hacer el check out. Aquí nos pasó algo que nunca habíamos vivido. Entregamos las llaves y el recepcionista nos pasa la cuenta: 210 Lt. El hotel lo teníamos pagado mediante la web en la que lo contratamos. Se lo hacemos saber y nos pide una prueba del pago. Por suerte ya tenía mi primer smartphone y pude enseñarle el correo con el recibo del hotel y del banco.

No se si nos quería estafar o era un novato, pero nos dejó marchar pero teníamos que mandarle los recibos al correo del hotel… nunca lo hicimos.

En la puerta nos pesperaba nuestro transfer al aeropuerto, ya que a esas horas no había transporte público.

Balance of the trip

What can I say about Lithuania… A country that pleasantly surprised me. Its spectacular landscapes, its gastronomy, its culture and its kind and friendly people.

I am aware that 10 days is very little time and that we missed a lot to see. I am sure I will come back.

NEXT ENTRY

Lithuania 2012 (II): visiting Klaipėda and Curonian Spit

We continue our journey through Lithuania. Today we moved the camp and went to Klaipėda.

August 1st

Klaipėda is Lithuania’s third most populous city and the country’s main seaport, located on the Baltic Sea coast.

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Brief history of Klaipėda

The town was founded in 1252 by the Teutonic Order and is called Castrum Memele (in German Memelburg) and the whole area was Christianised. The Peace of the Melno Sea in 1422 fixed the brotherhood between the province of Prussia and Lithuania. Memel was included in Prussia and the border remained unchanged until 1919. It was one of the longest unchanged borders in Europe.

At the beginning of 1474 Memel was governed by the Culm Law of the Prussian towns. In 1525, the Duchy of Memel adopted Lutheranism under the reign of Albert of Prussia. It was the beginning of a long period of prosperity for the city and the port, as the Duchy of Prussia was a Polish fiefdom and later part of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth. That prosperity came to an end when, between 1629 and 1635, Memel was attacked and occupied by Sweden.

With the creation of the unified German state in 1871, Memel became the most northeastern town in Germany. After the Treaty of Versailles, the territory surrounding Memel was separated from Germany and given autonomy under French occupation. In 1923 Lithuanian troops under Colonel Budrys attacked the town and the French withdrew.

Klaipeda

Memel was reabsorbed by the German Reich on 22 March 1939, after the annexation of Austria, the Sudetenland and Czechoslovakia. In January 1945 the town was captured by the Red Army and handed over to Lithuania.

At 11.35 the bus left Vilnius station. During the journey, something happened that left a deep impression on me. At a certain point on the motorway, we overtook an old car that was being towed by a Seat Ibiza with a normal rope tied to the bumper. In Spain you get caught and you get a packet of shit.

A little less than 4 hours later we arrived at Klaipėda station. From here we walked to our hotel, the National Hotel. A 4-star hotel, very centrally located and quite cheap.

We left our things and went for a walk through the old part of the city, the central part of which looks like a typical German village. The central part of the district looks like a typical German village – have we changed countries without realising it?

The most central place is Aikštė Theater, the Theatre Square. This is the central square of Klaipeda’s old town. Originally, part of the castle moats were located here. After being filled in 1819, a market was opened here. This market evolved and grew over the years.

Aikštė Theater

The most notable building on the square is (obviously) the theatre. The time of construction of the first building is unknown, but according to 18th-century city plans, a square building called “Komedijų namais” (Comedy House), which was formerly a military building, was located here.

The new boom of theatrical life in Klaipėda began after 1818, when the German Ulbrich arrived here. A forestry trading company allowed him free use of a temporary wooden building, where he set up a 200-seat hall and opened a theatre.

At the end of the 19th century, the construction of a new two-storey brick theatre in Classicist style with an attic was completed on the site of the present theatre. In 1854 the theatre burned down during a fire in the city but was rebuilt in 1857.

In 1935 the Šiauliai Theatre was moved to Klaipeda, a town 170 km to the west, and functioned as the Klaipeda State Theatre until 1939.

Unfortunately, during our visit it was completely covered up as it was undergoing restoration work and we were unable to see it.

Another notable feature of the square is the monument to Simon Dach, a poet born in 1605 in Klaipeda when it was officially called Memel and belonged to Germany. It is a fountain installed in 1912 whose sculpture represents the barefoot girl, one of the characters created by the poet.

monument to Simon Dach

In 1939 the sculpture was removed from the square and it is said that the idea was to replace it with one of Adolf Hitler. In 1989 a replica of the original sculpture was reinstalled.

From here we went to the banks of the Danish river. We crossed the river on the Biržos Bridge. Until the 18th century, the then wooden bridge was used not only for crossing the river, but also to collect tribute from all the ships that wanted to pass over it.

In 1877, construction began on a new steel bridge designed by the Wiesbaden engineer Bernstein, which was opened in 1879. In 1904, the upper part of the bridge was redesigned so that the new trams of the city could travel over it. During the reconstruction, the bridge was decorated with two openwork Art Nouveau metal portals, to which street lamps were attached.

Destroyed during World War II, it was rebuilt to the same design in 1948 and restored in 2007.

Biržos Bridge

The city must have been in a festive mood. In the park by the river there were several little food and craft stalls. There we sat down to have some refreshments and eat kepta duona, a kind of fried bread strips with cheese, which is delicious.

Next to the bridge is Arka, a monument built by sculptor Arūnas Sakalauskas in 2003 to commemorate the 85th anniversary of the Tilsit Law and the 80th anniversary of the Klaipėda uprising. The smaller red column is made of red granite and symbolises Lithuania Minor and its cultural heritage, while the grey part symbolises Lithuania proper. The grey part at the top appears to have been broken off and represents the Kaliningrad Oblast, now part of Russia.

The inscription at the top reads: ‘Esame viena tauta, viena žemė, viena Lietuva’ (‘We are one nation, one land, one Lithuania’) in the words of the Lithuanian writer Ieva Simonaitytė.

Arka Klaipeda

From here we went to rest for a while but, on the way, we stopped at a supermarket to buy some dinner. For 18.84 Litas (5.45€) we bought a lot of things.

After the break we had a short evening stroll but went to bed early as we had to get up very early. The next day was going to be hard, very hard.

August 2nd

We got up very early, no, very early. Today we visited the Curonian Spit, a sandy spit that separates the Baltic Sea from the Curonian Lagoon. It is 98 km long, of which 52 km belong to Lithuania and the rest to the Kaliningrad Oblast in Russia.

According to Baltic mythology, the spit was formed by a very strong girl called Neringa who was playing on the beach.

Curonian Lagoon
Curonian Lagoon

The entire Lithuanian part belongs to the municipality of Neringa. Until the reform of the Lithuanian municipality in 2000, it was known as the town of Neringa, although there was never a real “town” there. It became a city in the Soviet Union in 1961 by formally combining 4 settlements into one administrative unit.

At 7.20 in the morning we were taking the ferry from Klaipeda to Smiltynés. The trip cost us 2.90 Litas (0.85€) and takes about 20 minutes to cross the lagoon. From here we took a bus to Nida. The journey cost us 11 Litas (3.20€) and takes just over an hour.

Nida is the administrative capital of the municipality of Neringa and is well known as a tourist destination and for the Nida artists’ colony, an important artistic movement in East Prussia that began around 1890 and ended with the outbreak of World War II.

Nida is the westernmost point of Lithuania and the Baltic states, near the border with the Russian enclave of Kaliningrad Oblast, and has a population of about 2,300.

Nida

Here we bought a snack for the road and went to a bike rental point that I had already booked. The bikes cost us 30 Litas (8.70€) each and we could return them at any of the points along the isthmus.

With the bikes we headed to the first point we wanted to see, the Parnidžio kopa, the Parnidis Dune or the Great Dune of Nida. A 52-metre high moving sand dune and it is believed that its name, Parnidis, comes from the phrase meaning “it passed by Nida” because this wind-blown dune has passed by the village of Nida several times.

It is possible to climb to the top but only along the marked paths. It is strictly forbidden to leave these paths to ensure their preservation.

Parnidžio kopa, the Parnidis Dune

We park the bikes and climb the stairs through the lush forest to the top and admire the breathtaking views.

Parnidžio kopa, the Parnidis Dune

At the top of the dune is Saulės laikrodis, a granite sundial built in 1995. In 2011 it had to be restored as it was destroyed during a storm. The sundial is a 13.8-metre-high stone pillar weighing 36 tons. From an astronomical point of view, the Parnidis dune is an ideal place for the sundial in Lithuania.

Saulės laikrodis

After admiring the spectacular views we set off northwards towards the ferry, although we were not going to get that far. Practically the whole way we were able to cycle along the cycle path. It’s great because you don’t run into traffic and you don’t put yourself in danger.

The next stop was Vecekrugo kopa, the Vecekrugo dune about 8 km from Nida. This is the highest dune on the Curonian isthmus at 67 metres high and you can also climb it along the marked path to admire the views, but they are less impressive than those of Parnidis Dune.

Vecekrugo kopa

Here we took the opportunity to rest in the shade and eat what we had bought in Nida. After the rest we returned to the road. After kilometres of spectacular scenery combining forest and coast, we reached the town of Pervalka, about 8 km from Vecekrugo kopa.

Pervalka is a (very) small town of about 200 inhabitants. Most of the houses are small fishermen’s buildings from the late 19th and early 20th century and most of them are located on both sides of the main street along the shores of the Curlandia lagoon.

The village is really charming. If one day I win the lottery, I’ll buy a holiday cottage here.

Pervalka

Here we buy something to eat in a little shop, a light snack to keep on pedalling. We continue riding until we reach the coast of the Baltic Sea. Specifically to Juodkrantės bendras paplūdimys, Juodkrantės beach, about 17 km from Pervalka. A spectacular beach of fine, white sand where you felt like taking your clothes off and jumping into the sea, as it was very hot that day.

Juodkrantės bendras paplūdimys, Juodkrantės beach

From here we head to Juodkrantė (literally black coast), a tourist village with about 700 inhabitants. Located in the territory of the former Prussia, it was for centuries a fishing village called Schwarzort, which experienced a tourist boom in the late 19th and early 20th century.

Here we returned the bikes to the town’s quay and got on the bus to go to the ferry. We arrived at the hotel around 7 p.m. and rested for a while before going to get some dinner.

The break got a bit out of hand and we were running a bit late. I had booked a place for dinner on the internet and we set off. After a long walk we arrived in Soviet Klaipeda: wide avenues and huge blocks of flats. There was nothing on that road and the lighting was not very bright. As we couldn’t find the place we decided to turn around and look for something in the old town. With such bad luck that it had become too late and we were no longer allowed to enter any restaurants (they close at 22.00). So we decided to buy some ready-made food in a supermarket and eat it quietly in the hotel.

what to do in Klaipeda

August 3rd

Last hours in Klaipeda. We strolled through the old town until we reached the ruins of the castle, Klaipėdos Pilis. Klaipeda Castle also known as Memelburg or Memel Castle was built by the Teutonic Knights. The year of its construction is unknown but it was first mentioned in written sources in 1252 and underwent numerous destructions and reconstructions in the following centuries.

During the 19th century, having lost its strategic importance, the castle was demolished. Archaeological work was carried out on the site during the 20th century, and in 2002 a museum was established under one of its bastions. The castle is currently being restored.

It must be said that we did not have time to visit the museum.

On the quay is the most… strange or disturbing sculpture I remember seeing: Klaipėdos Juodasis vaiduoklis or the black ghost of Klaipeda, a hooded ghostly figure climbs out of the water, holding a lantern in his hand.

This disturbing sculpture is linked to a legend dating back to 1595 when Hans von Heidi, one of the Klaipėda castle guards, was making his nightly rounds near the harbour.

Out of nowhere, a hooded figure appeared near the water’s edge. Instead of attacking the startled guard, he asked him how the city’s grain and timber supplies were holding up. Von Heidi informed the ghost that the city had sufficient supplies, but the ghost warned him that it would not be enough. At that point, the apparition vanished.

In the old days, of course, people were inclined to believe the words of ghosts, witches, goblins and giants. And so Hans von Heidi dutifully reported his ghostly encounter to his superiors, and the town set about increasing its supplies of wood and grain. Then followed a few bleak years of famine and scarcity, which the people of Klaipėda only survived thanks to the ghost’s warning.

The sculpture, by Svajunas Jurkus and Sergejus Plotnikovas, was installed in 2010 and pays homage to the city’s saviour ghost.

Klaipeda

This is the end of our visit to Klaipeda and Neringa. It was time to go back to the station to take the bus to a new destination: Kaunas.

what to do in Klaipeda / Lithuania

South Korea 2023 (II)

We continue our trip through South Korea. We are still in Seoul, but now it’s time for an excursion.

August 13th

Today we are getting up quite early again. We are going on an excursion to the city of Suwon. But this time on our own, not like the visit to the DMZ.

The city of Suwon is located 30km south of Seoul and is the capital of the province of Gyeonggi. To get there we took line 1 of the Seoul underground. Approximately 1 hour and 15 minutes later we arrived at Suwon station. Yes, the underground goes to Suwon.

We got off the underground and went in search of the bus stop to go to the first stop: Padalmun Gate. There we got on the bus nº11 and we got off next to the gate.

Padalmun Gate

Built in 1794, Paldalmun is the southern gate of Hwaseong Fortress in Suwon. The area around Paldalmun Gate was a road leading to the Samnam region. Therefore, people frequented it even before the construction of Hwaseong Fortress.

The current building is the original one, which was restored in 2013.

Padalmun Gate

We go round the gate and head for Mount Padalsan to walk along the wall. Note that the climb can be really tough. A combination of hills and steep stairs.

Suwon

At the end of the climb we needed a well-deserved rest. Between the steps and the humid heat, it felt like we had taken a shower. Here we can sit on shady benches next to the Korean Independence Monument.

At the bottom of the stairs is the Seonamammun Gate. Built in 1796, it is an emergency gate built in the southwest of Hwaseong. It is one of the 5 secret gates of the fortress.

Seonamammun Gate

If we go south through the gate, we come to the south-west tower or Huayang Tower. It is located in a very high area perfect for surveillance… if the trees would let us. I suppose it would be clearer at the time.

Huayang Tower

We retrace our steps, cross the gate again and head towards Seoporu. This is a guardhouse that served as a lookout for the soldiers. It is one of the five guard pavilions in Hwaseong Fortress.

Seoporu

A little further north is the Hyowon Bell. It was created to honour King Jeongjo’s filial devotion to his father, Crown Prince Sado.

The bell must be rung three times. The first ringing is in gratitude for parental love. The second is to hope for happiness in the family. And the third as a prayer for self-improvement.

Hyowon Bell

A little further on we come to the jewel in the crown of Mount Paldal: Seojangdae. This is the Western Command Post and was the general command centre of Hwaseong Fortress.

In 1795, when King Jeongjo visited the fortress, he took command of military training from this post.

Seojangdae

From here we can enjoy wonderful views of the city of Suwon. It’s a long climb but, frankly, it’s worth it.

Suwon

We start the descent to Hwaseong Haenggung Fortress. The descent through the forest is wonderful, except for the terrible humidity that makes you sweat profusely.

On the way we pass the Padalsan Daeseungwon temple belonging to the Mahayana Monastery. It was founded in 1954 under the name ‘Mahasa’.

This temple does not belong to any particular sect. It is a place of research and education on Buddhist thought. Its 19-metre high golden Buddha statue is visible from many parts of the city.

Padalsan Daeseungwon temple
Padalsan Daeseungwon temple

The place was a real haven of peace and quiet. We were the only tourists there.

We continued our descent towards the fortress. By the time we reached the bottom we were so overwhelmed by the humid heat that we decided to take a little rest while we had a cool drink. We did so at a local coffee shop chain called Tom N Toms Coffee. We had some lemonade, which was good but still syrupy.

After refreshing ourselves we went back to the tourist trail. First stop: Yeomingag. This bell was installed in front of Huwaseong Palace in 1796 by order of King Jeongjo. It was lost during the Japanese invasion and was restored in 2008.

On the night of 31 December, the New Year’s Eve chimes are rung here.

Yeomingag

Now we move on to the jewel of the city: the Hwaseong Haenggung Palace. It was built in 1789, year 13 of the reign of King Jeongjo of the Joseon dynasty.

Its original function was as a government office. It was also used as a temporary palace where the king stayed when he travelled to Suwon.

King Jeongjo elevated the status of Suwon by promoting it to Hwaseong Yusubu, and built a new one in 1795 to celebrate the 60th birthday of his mother, Lady Hyegyeonggung Hong. It was completed in 1796 with a total of 600 rooms.

Hwaseong Haenggung Palace

We arrive at the ticket office. We queue up and buy our ticket, which cost us 3,000₩ (2€).

The first thing we come across is the Sinpungru Pavilion. It is the main gate of the palace and was built when the government office building was constructed. It was originally called Jinnamru but was changed to the current name in 1795.

In the building there is a large drum on the upper floor, which the soldiers used to monitor the surroundings and send signals.

Sinpungru Pavilion

We pass through the gate and find ourselves in an esplanade. To the right are some buildings of the original government offices.

On the left is a 600-year-old zelkova tree. This tree was already here before the palace was built. Note that it is propped up and riveted…

Hwaseong Haenggung Palace

Next to the tree is the entrance to the butler’s office. This is where the meetings between the officials of Suwon and the neighbouring areas were held. On the 1st and 15th of each month, the magistrate of Suwon held a ceremony at the guesthouse. It was called Uhwagwan, and a deep reverence was paid to the royal capital.

Today, there is an exhibition of royal robes from the period.

Bongsudang, the main hall, is located in the centre of the well-protected enclosure. It was used as the throne room when the king visited and as the magistrate’s office at other times.

Bongsudang

In 1795, King Jeongjo held a royal banquet here for his mother’s 60th birthday. During this banquet, he called the hall ‘Bongsudang (壽堂)’, which means ‘longevity prayer hall’.

Bongsudang

Adjoining and connected to Bongsudang is Jangnakdang. It was built in 1794 to be used as a hall for King Jeongjo’s mother during her 60th birthday banquet in 1795. Its name ‘Jangnakdang Long (樂堂)’, means ‘hall of lasting happiness’.

Jangnakdang

To its left, in the next courtyard, is the Bongnaedang. Built in 1789, it was one of the first buildings to be constructed in the palace. Initially it was used as the king’s dormitory, but after Jangnakdang Hall was built in 1794, it was used by the local magistrates.

The name ‘Bongnaedang (福內堂)’, chosen by King Jeongjo, means ‘hall that radiates happiness from within’.

Bongnaedang

We leave Bongnaedang through the back gate. There we come to a staircase with steps at least half a metre high, leading up to the guard post. We reach it by turning off to the right.

It was used to inform people inside the temporary palace about emergencies. It is one of the three remaining guard posts in the palace. Although it is a reconstruction from 2006. The original one was destroyed in the early 20th century.

Suwon

On the left hand side is the Mirohanjeong Pavilion. It was built in 1790 and was originally called ‘Yungmyeonjeong (六面亭)’. This translates as six-sided pavilion… guess why.

In 1795, King Jeongjo changed its name to ‘Mirohanjeong (未老閑亭)’, which means ‘a pavilion for relaxing in old age’. The king intended to abdicate and retire to the temporary palace from 1804. Unfortunately he died in 1800.

Mirohanjeong Pavilion

From here we can see beautiful views of Suwon and the palace.

Suwon

This is the end of our visit to Hwaseong Haenggung. But not Suwon. Although we were starting to feel like eating. But first we preferred to finish with the city. We went straight to Hwaseomun Gate.

Hwaseomun is the west gate of Hwaseong Fortress and that is the meaning of its name. Although the gate is actually located to the northwest of the fortress. One of the four gates of Hwaseong Fortress, it was built in 1796.

Along with the adjacent Northwest Watchtower, it is considered one of the most iconic scenes of Hwaseong Fortress.

Hwaseomun Gate

Now it’s time to eat. We retrace our steps looking for a place that looks tasty. In the end, after a lot of walking around, we enter a fried chicken place called Maehyang Whole Chicken.

We ordered a portion of chicken for one person and two soft drinks. When the chicken arrived, IT WAS A WHOLE CHICKEN!!!! We had our doubts as to whether we had been served for two until the bill arrived. Well no, it was a single portion, what a barbarity.

It was really tasty and the whole thing cost us 19.000₩… 13€… THE TWO OF US. Exaggeratedly cheap. We were very amused that they also gave you plastic gloves to avoid staining your hands.

Maehyang Whole Chicken

Now our visit to Suwon is over. We get ready to take the bus to the station. The bus took forever to pass and it was packed to the rafters. To push and padentro.

We arrived at the station just in time for the underground departure to Seoul.

Seoul

We got off at City Hall station. Nearby is the Cathedral of St. Mary the Virgin and St. Nicholas. This is the cathedral of the Anglican Diocese of Seoul.

In 1890 the first Bishop Charles John Corfe bought a hanok and land for the church on this site. He called this hanok Janglim Cathedral. In 1892 it was replaced by another hanok and its consecration took place.

After the purchase of adjacent land, the present cathedral was built in 1922.

Seoul

Directly opposite is the town hall building. It consists of two buildings. The original was built in 1925 during the Japanese occupation. It served as the city hall from the liberation of Korea in 1945 until 2008. It now houses the Seoul Metropolitan Library.

Seoul Town Hall

Behind it is the current modern building, which was opened in 2012.

At that time, the Jamboree 2023 was being held in South Korea. It was a kind of world scout convention. It was supposed to be held in Saemangeum, in the centre of the country. Because of the typhoon that hit Korea these days they had to be evacuated and brought to Seoul.

That meant that everywhere you went there were huge groups of kids, including the hotel where we stayed. To give you an idea, there were more than 400 kids just Spaniards.

In the town hall square they were organising events and it was packed with kids and stalls related to the Jamboree.

In one corner of the square there was also a stand commemorating the victims of the stampede on 29 October 2022 during the Halloween celebration in Seoul. On that day 152 people died.

From here we went to the Cheonggyecheon stream.

Cheonggyecheon stream

Cheonggyecheon Creek originates from Baekdongcheon Creek in the Inwansang Mountain Valley northwest of Gyeongbokgung Palace. It runs through the centre of Seoul and is almost 11 km long.

During the Japanese occupation, it was planned to cover the stream, but it was not realised. However, the project was realised between 1958 and 1978.

In 2003, the Metropolitan Government proposed a project to restore the area. In 2005, the restoration work was completed and about 5 km of the creek was repaired, leaving it as it is today.

Cheonggyecheon stream

Here we decided to sit down for a while and soak our feet in the water to cool off a bit. If it wasn’t forbidden, I think I would have jumped in head first.

One custom that we found very funny was that many women walked down the street with their fringes in curlers. You don’t see it in Spain, nor in the many countries we visited.

One example:

Cheonggyecheon stream

Here we could hear the music of a nearby concert with what sounded like traditional songs.

After a well-deserved rest, we headed to nearby Gwanghwamun Square. It is the nerve centre of Seoul. You will pass this place a thousand times.

In 1395, King Taejo established the city of Hanyang. In front of the palace, numerous government buildings were built, forming Yukjo Street. Some of these buildings were seriously damaged during the Japanese invasion in 1592.

During the Japanese occupation in the early 20th century, Yukjo Street was renamed Gwanghwamuntong Street. In 1926, the Joseon General Government built the Korean General Government building here and extended the street.

The current square was renovated in 2009.

The first thing we come across, at the southern end of the square, is the statue of Admiral Yi Sun Shin. He was a Korean admiral and general who successfully defended his homeland from Japanese raids in 1592. He is also credited with the invention of the turtle ship, although he only modified an existing vessel.

Gwanghwamun Square

In the centre of the square is the statue of King Sejong the Great who reigned from 1397 to 1450. Among his many achievements was the creation of the Hangul alphabet, today’s Korean alphabet. Until that time only the Chinese alphabet was used. Changing it brought culture closer to the Korean people.

He also contributed to the development of agriculture and science, the systematisation of medical techniques, music and law, and the expansion of the national territory.

Gwanghwamun Square

At the back of the statue is the entrance to King Sejong’s exhibition hall. There is an exhibition on the achievements of Sejong the Great.

King Sejong is considered the most admired figure by Koreans and his image appears on 10,000₩ banknotes.

At the northern end of the square is the Gwanghwamun Gate, the entrance to Gyeongbokgung Palace. But let’s not get ahead of ourselves. We will talk about it later.

Those days there was some kind of event going on in the square. There were many food stalls, craft stalls and even a swimming pool. The pool was full to the brim.

The best thing was that there was a row of fans on display there, I don’t know why. But it was a good way to cool off…

Gwanghwamun Square

On one side of the square there is also a monument to the 40th anniversary of the enthronement of King Gojong, the penultimate emperor of Korea.

monument to the 40th anniversary of the enthronement of King Gojong

Across the road to the north of the square is the National Museum of Korean Contemporary History. It was opened in 2012 and is an institution affiliated with the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism of the Republic of Korea, which oversees matters related to the collection, preservation, research, exhibition, education and exchange of modern and contemporary Korean history.

National Museum of Korean Contemporary History

From here we took a walk back to the hotel. On the way we passed Dongshipjagak. It is a guard post that was located in the old wall, now disappeared and belongs to the Gyeongbokgung palace.

Dongshipjagak

Nearby is the Beobryeonsa Temple. It was built in 1973 and is dedicated to its founder, Bodhisattva Beopryunhwa. It is a fairly modern building, although its upper part has the appearance of a traditional hanok.

Beobryeonsa Temple

Now we are. We go to the hotel. We buy some dinner at the supermarket and go to sleep.

August 14th

Today we have to get up early again. We pack our bags because today we move, for one night only, to the city of Sokcho, on the east coast of South Korea.

But that’s in the afternoon. Now we visit a bit more of Seoul.

After a light breakfast with things we had bought at the supermarket the night before, we head to the spectacular Gyeongbokgung Palace.

The palace was inaugurated in 1395 three years after King Taejo founded the Joseon dynasty. It was built when the capital was moved from Gaeseong to Hanyang (present-day Seoul). Its name means “Palace Greatly Blessed by Heaven”.

The first thing you come across is the Gwanghwamun Gate, the main gate of the complex.

Gwanghwamun Gate

The king used the central arch, while the crown prince and officials entered through the openings on either side. A bell in the gate pavilion announced the time of day.

During the bombings of the Korean War (1950-1953) the wooden pavilion was destroyed and the stone wall severely damaged. It was rebuilt in 1968 as a concrete structure, but restored to its original form as a wooden and granite structure in 2010.

Gwanghwamun Gate

Entering through the gate you come to a huge esplanade where the ticket booths are located. The price is 3,000₩ (€2.10) and is included in the Royal Palace Pass. It’s also free if you’re in traditional dress. In fact, there is an exclusive line for these people.

In any case, attending the concourse and the changing of the guard is completely free.

It is on this vast esplanade that the changing of the guard takes place every day (several times). But before that, on a small outdoor esplanade, outside the Hyeopsaengmun gate, a military training simulation is held. The Sumungun military training. That’s where we went.

Gyeongbokgung Palace / Sumungun military training

As soon as it was over, we returned to the esplanade, where the changing of the guard was about to begin. We positioned ourselves well and enjoyed the spectacle.

Gyeongbokgung Palace
Gyeongbokgung Palace

Once the show was over (it lasted about 20 minutes), we were ready to enter the palace. But after the changing of the guard, there were about a million people trying to get in at once.

We walked around a bit while the entrance was clearing up a bit and off we went. The entrance is through the Heungnyemun Gate.

Heungnyemun Gate

We pass through the gate and enter another esplanade. This is crossed by the Geumcheon Stream, which is designed to flow through the palace from west to east after descending from Mt Baegak.

The stream is crossed by Yeongjegyo Bridge. In the background is Geunjeongmun Gate.

Gyeongbokgung Palace

Beyond the gate is Geunjeongjeon. This is the central palace building where the subjects greeted the king on New Year’s Day, held national ceremonies and received foreign envoys.

It was built in 1395, although the present building is a reconstruction from 1867.

Gyeongbokgung Palace
Gyeongbokgung Palace

We leave through a small gate to the west of the Geunjeongjeon forecourt and go to the Sujeongjeon Pavilion.

It is located in the grounds of the former Gwolnaegaksa Temple and was the seat of civil affairs, including the establishment of the Hangul. It was also an institution that conducted academic research during the reign of King Sejong and advised and suggested important policies to the king.

Sujeongjeon is the only surviving building of Gwolnaegaksa Temple.

Gyeongbokgung Palace

Behind it is Gyeonghoeru. It is set within a large pond and was a place where banquets were held when auspicious events occurred or envoys visited the country.

Gyeongbokgung Palace

We re-enter the palace grounds and move on to Sajeongjeon. This was where the king worked on state affairs, including morning council meetings, administrative reports and discussions, and policy formulation with government officials.

Gyeongbokgung Palace

Behind, through another gate is Gyotaejeon, the queen’s quarters. To one side is Jagyeongjeon, the King’s mother’s quarters.

Gyeongbokgung Palace

We visited a lot more buildings but they were all closed. We went out from the north onto a large esplanade. Here we found the Jipgyeongdang Hall. This was where the king’s concubines stayed.

Gyeongbokgung Palace

Behind it is the beautiful Hyangwonjeong Pavilion in the centre of a large pond.

In 1873, King Gojong built Geoncheongung Palace in the northern part of Gyeongbokgung to assert his political independence from his father, Prince Regent Heungseon. This northern palace included rooms for the king and several dormitories.

It was here that a tragic chapter in Korean history was recorded in 1895, when Empress Myeongseong was assassinated by the Japanese.

Originally, the Chwirojeong Pavilion stood on the islet in the centre of the pond and was replaced by a hexagonal pavilion called Hyangwonjeong when Geoncheonggung was built.

It makes for a beautiful landscape.

Gyeongbokgung Palace

At the northwestern end of the compound are Jibokjae and Hyeopgildang.

After Gyeongbokgung Palace was severely damaged by fire in 1876, King Gojong moved temporarily to Changdeokgung Palace.

He returned here in 1888 and spent his time at Geoncheonggung. Jibokjae (Jade Gathering Hall) and Hyeopgildang Pavilion were moved from Changdeokgung Palace to positions west of Geoncheonggung.

These buildings were used as a library and reception hall to receive foreign envoys.

Gyeongbokgung Palace

This is the end of our visit to the spectacular Gyeongbokgung Palace. All that remains is to exit through Sinmumun Gate.

Gyeongbokgung Palace

We leave the palace and, crossing the street, we come across Cheong Wa Dae or The Blue House. This is the former executive office and official residence of the president of South Korea from 1948 to 2022.

Cheong Wa Dae is a complex of multiple buildings constructed largely in the traditional Korean architectural style with some modern architectural elements and facilities.

Cheong Wa Dae or The Blue House

It was formerly the site of the Joseon dynasty’s royal garden dating back to 1426. The complex burned down in 1592 during the Japanese occupation and remained abandoned for 270 years.

In 1865, Prince Regent Heungseon began reconstruction in the second year of King Gojong’s reign.

During the Japanese occupation in the early 20th century it was used to hold the Joseon Exposition from 1937 to 1939 and later served as a park before the official residence of the Japanese governor-general was built on the site.

Cheong Wa Dae or The Blue House

After registering our passports at the entrance and passing a strict security check, we enter the grounds. The gardens are beautiful.

We go through another security check into the building and visit the offices and various rooms, which include a collection of objects used by the different presidents and the president of South Korea, portraits of everyone and photos of the first ladies… and even a security guard sleeping in a chair. The poor guy must have had a bad night.

By the way, admission is free.

From here we took a nice, hot walk to the National Folk Museum of Korea. It was founded in 1946 and is a museum representing Korean daily life and culture. It is visited by more than two million people every year.

National Folk Museum of Korea

The beautiful building alone is worth a visit. You can also see many exhibits in the gardens.

It was getting late in the afternoon and the rain was beginning to take its toll. As we had to take a bus to transfer the camp, we decided not to complicate our lives. We ate at the same Korean barbecue restaurant as a couple of days ago. It was close to the hotel, too.

Today it was very crowded but the service was just as good and the food just as spectacular.

After lunch we picked up our stuff at the hotel and went to the Express Bus Terminal. Our new destination is the city of Sokcho, on the east coast of South Korea.

At 15.40 we take the bus. It is about 3 hours to our destination, but that is information for the next entry.

What to do in Seoul and South Korea

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